osmononame

Thanks for this. I have emailed the guy for my area. Let's see!

That's already done. I got a roll of their cable off eBay just so I could run it into the house from the main street (and also have provision for it running into the garage if they decide they don't like the one I have run as I don't want to be drilling holes into the house). Literally they need to turn up and connect it in. Hopefully my house will go onto the RM website soon and I will try them again.

Did you contact them through the sales line or was it another department? I really think this is a computer says no issue and with a bit of human input they can do it. I might be wrong however.

I don't think it's this as when I try and pretend to order for another house on the street that doesn't have VM it let's me order (or at least attempt to order - I didn't actually hit submit!).

It's for the internet and not the TV but yes I am going to speak to them about that. I doubt they are on the fastest package so I don't think they will have an issue with me using their connection on the basis that I cover the costs for doing so.

I'm half tempted to come to a deal with the tenants to share their connection (and the cost!) until VM pull their finger out. Getting some fiber from 1 to 1A will be easy peasy!

Keeping both unfortunately and its tenanted so I don't think that would go down well with them!!

Bit of a strange one this one. I am building at 1A which essentially is in the garden of 1 (which I own too). Number 1 has VM and i thought it would be a simply call to VM to have my house connected to their network but I am told that I will have to wait for the infrastructure in my street to be updated so they are able to connect in to me. I asked what the process is for this and was given a rather woolly well we keep an eye on the post code database and when your address is added and our engineers are in the area next doing some work they will upgrade the street but was told this might be months or years away. Anyone ever had this before? The whole street is connected to VM so I find this explanation hard to believe. BT is pitifully slow here so I want to avoid that if possible!

For what its worth I ended up with SKN176 coating on my rear elevation and unless side by side you couldnt really tell that it was solar glass.

The door in the picture is a pocket door so no hinge but it doesn't matter on the hinged doors. There are doors that have the same issue both sides!

Good evening all, I thought I would post here about some doors I am having issues with. You can see the issue clearly in the top right hand corner of the attached image. It seems like the paint is blistering or cracking? These doors came to us finished in white. We have 4 sizes (626, 726, 826, 926) and it seems to be affecting just about every size. Anyone ever come across this or know what could be causing it? The doors were fine when they arrived on site - these issues have developed about a month after they have been hung.

Thanks - I asked architect who referred me to the installer [of the mvhr]. I'm the installer so no further forward there! Just looking to see what that gap should be really. I am leaning on going with a 10mm gap if I can't find anything to the contrary.

Good evening all, Does anyone know if the regulation in England and Wales in respect of door gaps under doors applies in Scotland? I think it's a 10mm gap that's required south of the border but can't see anything in the technical regs up here that would dictate what the door gap should be.

Hi all, The tank/boiler install in my house is due to take place end of the month which means i have to get the orders in for the cylinders etc. On advice of others and some on this forum i have decided to go for a UVC and buffer tank - UVC I will probably purchase off the shelf somewhere in stock and then I will insulate it better myself - as far as the buffer tank is concerned I came across a OSO model on eBay but it lists in the description: 'The Accu units are designed to be part of a split system, where the accumulating is done in a separate tank' I don't quite follow what this means? Would one of these be suitable for my application or do i need something else? I tried to contact my plumber but couldn't get through to him today.

I'm in Scotland - not sure if that changes anything but i was told by architect that i would need on doors to all living arears - so thats 4 downstairs, 5 on ff and 2 on sf. Faz - those ones look like they will do the job but at £230+vat are way over budget - i am temped to go with the SS ones and if i cant have them powder coated i might just have a go at spray painting them!

Hi all, We are going with black handles and hinges on our project. As the build is over three floors we require self closers on a few doors - the Perko R2 seems to do the job but it doesn't come in black - infact none of the ones I can see online from the various different brands come in black. For anyone that has worked with these before can the ends be detached as if so I am think they could be painted / powder coated but if not then I don't think stainless steel will be too bad but just want to explore our options.

I will check with the designer to see what he says - I am a little out my comfort zone here. I have space in the plant room but that's in the attic (I know it's a bit upside down!). What do you think about the zone valves - having a quick Google I don't think I need them on the back of each zone having an actuator?

Tell me about it - between that and knowing that she will have windows open fully in the height of winter to 'air' the house out despite having a mvhr I have my work cut out! I've checked the cost of a buffer tank and think I can go with one of those if I then chose a cheaper boiler that doesn't have as good as good a modulating range (1:10).

So on GF it was meant to be different spacing but we decided to go closer to make the option of retrofitting an ashp in the future a possibility. I have a very old inefficient self build with ufh I am staying in now and heating demand is close to nil upstairs on all but the coldest of days. I think the calcs showed the same for us at the new place so I am.not too concerned about the spacing (and too late now anyway to do anything about it!). As far as heatmiser in each room - that's a debate I am having with the Mrs. I was thinking a thermostat per floor but she wanted independent control as it's the same as what we have. If you have any advice that might convince her I'm all ears.

It was the designer/under floor heating store who specced the zone valves. But each manifold location does have its own pump/blender/actuators... Does that mean we might be able to do without the zone valves?

I will need to check with the designer about the temp... Can't seem to see the designed temp on the papers I have. It's 16mm pipe at 150 ctrs on gf in 80mm of screed and spreader plates at 250 ctrs on first and second floors. Will be timber floor on the gf and carpets FF and SF.

We had thought about a buffer tank before - I think trying to keep a slim budget we discounted for that reason. I guess i could reconsider the decision - we do have space in the plant room for it - the guys who designed the UFH system couldn't tell us what size we needed so i would need to do those calcs then find the cost for what size i need and costs etc. I did try looking online for this before but most guidance i could find was for ASHP / non-gas boiler set ups. The boiler modulates down to 1.6kw which will exceed a single rooms heat demand. p.s. and this is probably a stupid question but if the boiler only runs when one of the stat calls for heat what purpose does the motorised valve do?

Yes - each manifold has its own pump - I guess the valve could be located at the manifold end but we won't have a buffer - its a gas boiler we are going with which modulates well (1:20 modulation) which should work well with ufh - or thats the plan at least! It's something we could look to add later should we feel it is required. System was designed by the Underfloor Heating Store but they now closed until next year (and i am happy to deviate if theres a better way). How would the wiring work without a buffer - I guess we would wire all the wiring centres to be able to trigger the boiler when required?

Good evening all, We are in the final stages of running the cables for our build and it occurs to me that I have yet to run the cabling for the UFH control. I have been looking at schematics this evening: Am I correct in thinking that I need 5 core cables running from the wiring centres (there will be 3 in total - 1 on each floor) to the motorised valves which are going to be located in the attic? At the same time I think I have to run a twin and earth cable from each wiring centre to where the boiler is going to be located (also in the loft)? Truth be told its probably a question for my sparky and plumber but they are not back on site until end Jan so thought I would ask here so I can get on with things while I am off work over Christmas/New Year!!

Thanks for all the suggestions. I certainly have a better understanding now of whats needed. I will report back when I have a bash at it!