hotnuts21

😄 Need to fireproof the steel, two sheets of pink plasterboard apparently to protect the steel from fire. Because this adds nearly 24mm under the beam, I either need to double board the whole ceiling or put 12mm packers under the beams to ensure its on continuous ceiling if that makes sense.

I know a man, there's plenty round here 😄 Most likely taking a van to Celtic Sustainables in Cardigan to collect thermafleece amongst a lot of the other bits I need. I did my bathroom with marmox so thats a good shout, might have some spare, top tip!! The top half of that skylight upstand is insulated on the other side of the timber to 150mm. Unfortunately I do not have the headroom, its a very tight 2100 with no floor covering, and I need to put two layers of PB over the beam. The flat roof is a warm roof with 150mm of celotex above the joists, so im not worried about that bit being cold, my main cold bridge issue is the great big box section of metal above the doors and windows. Although I have 70mm of woodfibre board on the outside of the timber frame.

We have a Timber frame extension, part of it is one story with a warm flat roof, and part is a second story bedroom. Below this is one big kitchen diner. I've uploaded two photos, one is a wider view, showing the walls, the warm roof with the skylight on the left of a steel (supporting the upper wall) and the ceiling/floor of the second story. The question I have is that the walls are going to have sheep's wool in them, so I'm going to put a low-e or VCL membrane over the walls, but I'm not sure how/where to finish it, should I take it up and across the warm roof, past the steel and attach it all the way along the wooden joist next to the beam. Or do I just end it attached to top plate of the wall? Although the warm roof has its own vapor barrier, I cant see any harm in putting the membrane across the roof to add an extra layer of protection to the warm roof and stopping any moisture going up and over the wall into the cavity. For clarity, in front of the membrane there will be a 25mm service void, if anyone can recommend a good low-e/reflective membrane that's used as low emissivity void. Can help increase u value Note, - the gap above the TF wall will be filled with 140mm Celotex and foamed to create a seal from wall up to warm roof. - The skylight has its own VCL, so will lap up and join to that, not just go across the gap 😉

All back to normal thanks everyone.

Whole unit as in heat pump etc too or just the HW tank and controller? I have suggested they do a "power cycle" but will call over Tomo and see if I can help. Apart from flicking the isolator switches off is there another way to turn it off I might be missing?

@ProDave that's what the support said to do, so they have tried that and the one one on the left clicked, but the warning error is still flashing on the panel and hasn't cleared. Which I think is why they are confused. @JohnMoI have no idea, I was hoping to learn from it, but think it's a bit of a bodge. Turns out it's the same builders who did the MVHR install bodge on another friends house. I presume normally there's some kind of heat exchanger in the tank that uses the hp water to heat the water in the tank?

We had a power cut the other day and since then a neighbours setup (which I've been exploring for my own needs) has been flashing this error. They have been onto supplier but the supports been a bit patchy. They were told to press the red reset buttons in the boiler panel and they've shut it all down and restarted it but error still flashing. Just wondering if anyone has any idea of something else they can try Tomo? It seems the hot water isn't heating up as well (makes sense) support is taking 24-hrs before an engineer gets in touch each time they phone.

I also have to say I'm quite impressed that the black tape holding the inlet up and to the rafters has lasted that long 😄 But having another look at the condensate pipe run, im wondering why it seems to be going in the opposite direction to the soil vent and rather right to the eaves...

HI all, thanks for the great responses, I've summarised the main points and responses below and added some more information. The builder was a bodger, I think he threw all new tech at the house without knowing what it was. The ASHP for example has had a load of issues and didn't have a magnetic filter on the system and was constantly running at full whack until someone from Daiken sorted it. So this is another chuck it in and see I think, although its been working pretty well for 8-10 years. Apparently up until about 18 months ago it was rattling because the fan speed was constantly on max, an electrician turned it down and she thinks that when the leak might have started took a while to notice the damp patch in the corner. 1, the orientation of pipes, etc! - I think this is a trick of the camera and the angles she took the photos in with the loft etc, the drain seems to run parallel to the floor/roof joists so I'm pretty sure it's running straight, but I'm hoping to get in there and have a look this weekend. 2, Cause - So it seems we think the water building up is just warm air coming up through the ducts, into the pipes, and condensing because the units not on. 3, Clear the water from the pipe(no idea how but I'll give it a go, just disconnect from the machine and manipulate it through the pipe to a bucket) and put the unit back on for now, but put a bucket under the faulty drain to collect the leak that started all this. I will also open the machine and see whats going on inside if the condensate is blocked etc. 4, Look at fitting/fixing the drain as in the interim. 5, Look at getting someone in to redo the pipework at least in the loft who knows what they are doing. The local heating and engineers company that has looked at it and drained the hoses before Christmas just said it needed replacing and couldn't be fixed, but I've asked her to get a written reason why so I can see if they even realized the pipes were wrong, maybe they were talking about the pipes, etc only. But im not convinced anyone locally fully understands MVHR with conversations I have had recently with plumbers and sparks. Ill keep looking though. 6, She has changed the filters several times. The silver pipes are the correct type? Is it just the outgoing white pipe (I hope it's the outgoing) that needs better lagging and placement? Oh, and the grey pipe is I think the Soil pipe, but no idea why it's running flush with the roof angle. She told me she has 3 vents on the roof so I'm guessing two for MVHR and one for the soil pipe. But I'll try and get some more pics.

This is/was the waste/condensate pipe that's been leaking and started the problems. Installed like this 🤮

A friend of mine has a newish house (10yrs ish old) and it's has a cheap MVHR unit in the loft. It's been ok, although its leaked a few times. About a month ago she was told a leak she'd noticed on the bedroom ceiling was coming from the small 'waste/condensate? pipe at the bottom which had been bodged with so much mastic the replacement parts weren't available and what they (local heating company) could get didn't and wouldn't fit. So she was advised to switch it off. She went into the loft this week and the small white pipe which goes up to a roof vent is full of water and dropping in places. I'm gonna go and hopefully help her drain them, whilst waiting for the quote for a new unit. Any tips on how greatfully received However, what I can't understand is where is the water coming from in the pipes? Why is so much building up with the unit off? I'm still looking to install my own unit, so all possibilities are a good learning experience too. Some photos below and wow my first though was mega bodge and amazed it lasted 10yrs.

Cheers for the guidance all 🙂 i think it's in hand now 🙂

Hope this is the right forum, I need to make changes to our architects dwg drawing. We had them done about 4 yrs ago and we are doing some minor changes I want to update to pass to trades. Any suggestions for online tools or services, I'm happy to pay to have them modified. It's only 2D and basically moving a door, and WC room from one end of the extension to the other and adding a pantry room. Any suggestions greatly received, everything I've tried just doesn't seem to want to work (prob my uselessness). Thanks Paul

Thanks for the help, a few sleepless nights getting ready for everyone and two nights of taking way too long to get everything down, the disadvantage of old houses nothing is square!! Anyway from the photo at the start, to fiinally finished floor. Thanks 🙂 I presume I can just trim all the edge insulation, upstand and polythene to floor level when its nicely hardened off?

Don't need the solvent weld under the screed? I'm concerned if the rubber fails it's gone!

Just noticed this on the scrap pile from when we demolished the rear. Could cut this down and slide it into the bend so the boss is almost at floor level? Seems it needs a 63/5mm reducer?

Solvent weld boss strap might work if i can find one locally?

The collar just above the concrete is the top of a rest bend, and yeah I just found out I can pull the top part out 😆. Although its going to be a lot of hassle cutting into the insulation, I think a straight run is best. The pipe going into the top is the temp kitchen waste I can play with that temporarily. Ive just realised that none of the standard push in boss pipes have a solvent weld attachment except the one that goes over a pipe, and thats going to cause issues.

Yeah thats why I was asking, im worried about it not being glued/permanent. Ive seen this, which I could potentially use by pulling out the one thats there, but im not sure if I can solvent weld into the universal boss. There will only be one 90 deg bend, where the pipe runs from the island to the wall, I was thinking of putting a t at the island with a 45 off it and haveing two pipes coming up, one for rodding and one for the dishwasher waste, so I could rod down to the corner/90 at the very lease. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-drain-connector-black-110mm/469JG? (can you solvent into these? universal bos'?)

The green line shows the run of the proposed waste. Into the corner.

Hi, We are having a kitchen island in our extension and it will house the dishwasher and hob. So I need to get a cold water supply in and a waste out. I'm due to lay the insulation for the UFH and screed tonight and just wondering whats the best way to tap into the waste would be as it's going to be below ground level, can I drill a hole and use a rubber connector? I presume it needs to go into the waste as low as possible. I'm going to use 43mm waste pipe, the run from island to wall is about 1.8m and the run along the wall just under 3m. The photo is what I'm trying to tap into.

Great thanks, is there any special rules/regs with making good the DPM? I can carefully slice it and fold it back to cut the bricks away. I now need to find a recip saw blade I can cut the blocks with!! They are hefty! Thanks Paul

Not sure they help but some other photos. This is the external door.

Hi, I have a timber frame extension on a block foundation, including one of the internal walls. There is a doorway in this wall, and most of the UFH pipes flow through this doorway from the utility to kitchen etc. However as the dpc on which the sole plate sits is nearly the same level as the finished screed, the UFH pipes need to go through the block under the internal doorway? How is this normally done? Photo for clarity between kitchen and utility. (I still need to cut away the sole plate timber at the door. In fact this doorway is going to be a cold spot as the screed will only cover it by 5mm.

For the record im now back in the opinion of going for a central main unit, and probably a brink unit, if they ever get back to me! Paul