Miller3857

ProDave you are confusing permitted development rights which you do get when the dwelling is completed, unless of course the council have either restricted or withdrawn them and with what I am quoting - two different things.

You don’t need planning to site a mobile home. Under permitted development it allows the siting of a temporary/moveable structure that is required temporarily in connection with and for the duration of the operations being carried out. We have recently completed a barn conversion where we lived in a mobile home for 15 years on site (I told the wife it would be 3-5 years - but that’s a different story). We wrote to the council telling them of our intentions stating under what legislation, we also registered for council tax with no issues. This legislation does not vary from one authority to another (England) despite what you may have read on this post. My advice is be confident when dealing with the council, the bottom line is the law allows you to do it, the council may not like it but such is life!

Plaster then screed, that way you get a good edge to skirting board to.

There is no voltage when it gets stuck, there is no power what’s so ever feeding the actuator at that time, they just default to being open for whatever reason.

Well, I’ve tied what Nick has suggested by making sure they are not over tight and then ‘reset’ the actuators and, initially they work ok, however, after a period of time (24 hours) some decide to go back to remaining open despite no call for heat. To be honest I’ve given up and asked Wunda to refund my money unless they can provide a definitive answer on why this continues to happen and revert back to ‘normal actuators. It will be interesting to see what they say!’

Thanks for this Nick, they are hand tight and I did use the body for a bit of extra tightness , I will loosen them off slightly and see what happens.

No they don’t.

We are using Honeywell stats.

Checking back on previous Salus threads back in Jan 2020 it was discussed at length although there doesn’t seem to be a definitive answer it’s clear I’m not alone with this issue.

Heatmiser.

I have recently fitted Salus auto balancing actuators to our underfloor system and am having no end of problems with some of the actuators remaining open even though there is no call for heat from the relevant zone thermostat. I have spoken with Wunda who have advised me to go through the recalibration process three times in succession which I have done numerous times and although this does reset them, after anything from a few hours to a day some of them decide to remain open, it’s not always the same ones and there would appear to be no rhyme or reason as to which one it is. It is only when another zone calls for heat that you can see which actuator has stuck open with the flow meter indicating the actuator is open. On one of the zones there are three actuators and it can be just one that remains open with the other two operating properly. The chap from Wunda did say he couldn’t explain why it happened and that sometimes it could be a reoccurring issue or that resetting would solve it - not particularly helpful. Has anyone else had similar issues? Many thanks, Frustrated from Berkshire!

Good afternoon all , I am looking for advice on remote (preferably wireless but not essential) temperature monitoring on our 750 litre thermal store. Basically I would like to have some sort of simple display in our kitchen showing the tank temperature. I have had a good look on line but am struggling to find something suitable, there must be some way of doing it! Many thanks.

Absolutely no issues with plastering tapered edge boards, I have recently done the same for the same reasons as you = short supply! My Plasterer had no concerns whatsoever!

Looking for guidance with a 750 litre thermal store which has twin tappings for immersion coils, one near the bottom the other half way up. We have 4KW of solar PV so want to make the best use of this. Would it be best to have two separate immersion coils or one? If it's one coil which tapping would be best top or bottom? If two coils are the way to go is it possible to control (automatically) each one separately allowing half the store to heat up before switching to the other (assuming the lower) coil? Any advice would be gratefully received. Thank you in anticipation! Rich

Thanks Nick for the advice so far, am I right in assuming then that the whole of the underneath of the shower tray is bedded in adhesive not just the bits that have been machined flat.

Thank you!

Looking for similar advice but onto a screeded floor.

I can only go on my dealings with them, I bought direct from them 6 weeks ago, delivered within two days.

The Heat Genie does all of the above, it provides overheat protection in the event of a power failure and also does away with the need for a Laddomat or equivalent. It’s not cheap but comes very neatly packaged and is easy to install.

Yes, they have a UK telephone number +44 (0) 1244 457 818, also try heatgenie.co.uk

I bought it direct from them, they are also very good at providing technical advice/back up.

I'm in the process of installing something very similar, have you had a look at 'Heat Genie' its manufactured by Systemlink in Ireland. It's an all in one system that will link your stove into the thermal store keeping the stove water separate from the thermal store and also provides stove overheat protection. I'm just about to install one.

Ok, so a HRC is being suggested as the best solution. Having read previous threads my understanding is that the flow could be started by an occupancy detector in each bathroom, what happens when the 'ring main' gets up to temperature does the pump stop with a temperature switch or does it stay running? Does anyone have a diagram showing the relationship between the pump and the cold water supply going into the coil in the TS - is it best for the pump to be on the return leg or on the flow? Lots of questions and some may appear a little vague so apologies but just trying to get my head around things. Thank you.

Thank you for all the replies! Unfortunately I can't move the tank. The thermal store is a 750 litre Akvaterm fed from a 30kw wood burning stove (I can hear the groans) backed up by gas and 4kw of solar PV. We are looking to have a mains accumulator to allow for multiple shower use should the need arise. If I'm honest the thinking behind the hot water system has gone into the too difficult box until now.

Hi first ever question so please be gentle, although I have been reading the forum for some time. Currently planning the plumbing for two ensuites (two of five). Both have showers and the pipe run from the thermal store to each is 17m, both ensuites back onto each other. I want to keep things as simple as possible but appreciate there needs to be a balance between simplicity and functionality. Naively I had hoped to feed each one back individually to the store and a manifold, interested to hear your views?