Raks

Thanks, I think you are right. When I asked to virginmedia online support, I was told "DOCSIS3 cable" but the sales person was not so technical anyway. I've found this guide: https://www.virginmedia.com/content/dam/virginmedia/dotcom/images/shop/downloads/New-Build-Handbook-v1-63.pdf I haven't read through yet but it seems just the RG6 cable is fine. Maybe need to check if there are high quality wider band width RG6 cables.

I would like to put the Tv/Broadbank outlets ready to connect to the VirginMedia services by pulling the right cables into conduits while rewiring. We don't want surface cables all over again when the engineer installing the service. I was told DOCSIS3 is the cable used by the Virginmedia engineers. As i understand this is a data cable standard, not a brand but where can I find it to buy?

its decision time for a boiler.. Viallant seems more popular choice when it comes to quality performance and service but Veissmann technical specs and technology seems quite good as well, if not better in some areas. Whats your general experience with Veissmann Vitodens boilers especially with storage floor standing model 222-F and wall hang smaller 111-W if you have one or install one. thx

Thats right solid wall and hard plaster. Its better to go for EWI and this is a future project now but meanwhile I was just thinking to put a 25+12.5 insulated plasterboard from inside to one of the wall which gets more condensation. This wall has no window so seems easier to fix it directly without any cut or trim. The exterior render looks ok as no moisture or damp getting in from outside but just the interior surface condensation because of the cold walls.

its for a 1930s bungalow with solid walls. If they are similar to this one, they are quite expensive for a 1200x600 sheet !? https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/spacetherm-wl-wall-liner-aerogel-insulation-7-2m2-pack.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3s6alfyM5wIVgbHtCh1j7QDqEAQYAiABEgJEs_D_BwE Probably better to go for Celotex/Kingspan 25+12.5 insulated boards with direct bonding but which method is better to fix them ? Dot & dab or adhesive foam to seal the edges completely and then screw fixing. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/celotex-37-5mm-insulated-plasterboard-pl4025-1-2m-x-2-4m.html

I would like to insulate a couple of walls from inside to reduce the condensation in a bungalow. Whats the space-saving and effective alternative products and technique to insulate a wall from inside against cold, sound and condensation? Has anyone used this 13mm "Stormdry EP-Board" product or anything similar: https://static.safeguardeurope.com/downloads/datasheets/stormdry/stormdry-ep-board-datasheet.pdf Is it available in the UK as I couldn't find a price for that.

For room-by-room temperature controls, Viallant's smart systems (and many others) are using wireless TRVs to turn on of each radiators flow. We are planning to install a combi boiler (Viallant 938?) with a manifold system for radiators so we will have ports for each rooms flow-return and each port can have actuators which is a smiliar to the multi zone underfloor heating control concept. In this setup, I prefer the radiators would not have TRVs but the rooms will have their own thermostats and the manifold ports will have actuators. There are concerns about the total run of pipes from manifolds so a pumped manifold can be used to ease the flow but also concerns about turning on/off the actuators for room controls that might not work with the combis efficient modulating and smart features. So whats your suggestion and experiences in a similar setup? which thermostat and wiring system can we use efficiently parellel to the boilers smart features to control the temperatures room by room ? Or is there better way (with or without TRVs) to have multiple zone (room-by-room) centralised controls of the manifold radiator heating system?

Do you know which manifold and pipe brand did they use? I was suggested to use hep2o for manifold and pipe system as most of the European brands do not have 15mm standard pipes, but that 15mm is a barrier pipe (pb or pex) without an aluminium layer (no MLCP). I wonder if that makes any difference in performance and long term. Because we will connect 10+ radiators and each are 5 to 8 meters away from the manifold, it was an pumped manifold. (same as the UFH) ps: I was gonna ask the same questions to @Kdlt about the manifolds and pipe choices.

How is your project going @MikeGrahamT21? I am renovating the house in the same setup but plumbing not started yet. Please let us know your work process (and if you can share with pic)

Renovation going slow ? and UFH not installed yet. As we are moving the kitchen to dining area as open plan, after island and kitchen units the UFH area getting smaller. I talked with few builders/plumbers but non of them installed one with spreader plates so not much feed back from installers. The labour intensive part would be insulating the floor between joist. My one is not a deep sub floor and few other service pipes, cables between them its a bit too much work . I am having a second thought on installing the UFH. If raising the floor level is not an issue then have a look to the following option as well: https://wms-uk.com/systems/low-profile/ambiscreedboard-low-profile-underfloor-heating-system

Press fitting seems more reliable but requires special tools. ( I was told they are available to hire but don't know the rates) This is where I get confused: Are all the multilayer composite pipes have same standards? If I get a 16mm pipe from one manufacturer, can I still use fittings from other manufacturers? Is there any crass-brand standard or professional de-facto choice when it comes to composite pipes and fittings ? Are the fittings proprietary to a specific brand/manufacturer but can be used with all composite pipes?

This is the main reason why we decided to upgrade the whole plumbing system with manifolds (central heating with radiators as well as hot/cold water in kitchen/bathrooms). there are few brands (and cheaper ones on ebay) in the market but could'nt find decent independent reviews about the brands and models yet to decide..

Hi All; I will install a 10-11 port manifold for wall hanging radiators. (and later we will add actuators for room-by-room control) The usual way is to use MLC Pipes to each radiator but the (old-school plumber suggested that better to use copper pipe as he is concerning about long term potential damages of "plastic pipes" in void subfloor areas. Two questions: 1- which brand/model manifold would you recommend for "wall hanging radiators"? are all same or some have better quality? 2- I am not sure about running copper pipes yet but if we do is there some specific manifolds for copper connections or should we need extra adaptors? or better and easy to install to add MLCP tails to copper pipes manifold connection ends. Also we will install 4-5 port hot and cold wate manifolds for kitchen, bathroom and ensuite. Same question; any recommendation of make/model for hot/cold water manifolds? Thanks.

After removing old wall papers and all ceiling coverings, now the house need re-skimming.over the original hard smooth render. All layers cleared fairly but may need sand papering in small areas. Surfaces are not damaged, they are smooth & hard but ceiling have cracks so better to put a layer of mash rather than taping. Net wall area is about 290 sqm and ceiling about 95 sqm. What is the average cost of re-skimming in SE London area and as a separate estimate for painting? Should I expect a price per sqm Labour + materials or all inclusive?

Hi; I am considering to convert two of the doors to concealed-flush ones (inward opening) in the hallway of my house. I have seen some ideas on the internet and a company called selo-uk (https://selo-uk.com/) which they do these kind of inward and outward concealed door sets but no pricing information on their website. Looks nice in some places but I am not sure how reliable they are. Whats your experience and and advice about concealed doors (especially inward opening ones) if you are using one or installed one.

Can we bury the radiator pipes into solid wall as well? how deep should I go and any potential problem because of the heat expansion of the pipes?

OK, as I understand all pipes would be 15mm for hot & cold water, I will check your previous post regarding to the 15 or 22mm for the CH. ? I first came across these "plumbing manifolds" while looking for manifolds for radiators : https://www.heatdirect.co.uk/emmeti-multiplex-sanitary-manifold-2099.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sT_1vqe5gIVwkPTCh1SlAiBEAQYBiABEgLOR_D_BwE I like the idea of point-to-point one piece pipe, so less problem points when running all the pipes behind walls in a new ensuite: And then for a studio, the manifold is in a wall box which can be accessed without entering the studio, so if something goes wrong while tenant away, its easy to cut off the supply for any of the points. Of course these can be done without a manifold as well but this kind of one pieces solutions are seems compact and easy to implement depends on your planning. By the way, I didn't know that but ii was told the manifold plumbing is the norm in some of the European countries. Everything is positive in these marketing videos but whats your main concern about the plumbing manifold in these kind of installations?

this might work for water but I need for gas as well. (but I feel better with a mechanically more reliable lever ball valve)

That was my concern with PVC conduits as well. Probably galvanised ones are heavy in fixing and price as well. If I would like to add a cable later on, is it easy and safe to pull a new cable into chased/capped channel?

To put a isolation valve over the floor level for a pipe running under, is there any "bottom only connection" type valves? Let me explain what I meant: Right now to add a isolation valve: straight up pipe to floor level + isolation valve + short straight + U bend connection + straight back to the pipe under floor. I just wonder if there are special valves with two connections at the buttom one for IN one for OUT so nice tidy two pipe connection without extra bends and soldering.

well.. I was considering manifold for hot/cold water as well 3-4 port ..one in bathroom, one in kitchen but each got supply directly.

Its late 1930s bungalow, I haven't break any rendering yet, its quite solid hard rendering but probably bricks. One of the wall is about 11-12 the others about 14-15cm thick. I will check the regulations regarding to the isolators for electric shower and cooker if there are certain distance or level restrictions to place. I need a good electic wall chaser with dust extractor and maybe a backbox chaser as well. (any recommendation?)

Planning the rewiring of a single storey bungalow. All internal walls are solid as well. No floorboard in the loft but just loose rockwool insulation. I would like to put 47mm metal back boxes, is it ok to use 20mm pvc conduits to bury into walls? (hope no cracks over chasing later!)? All conduits will be straight up to loft. Even the two socket on the same wall will have straight conduits for each. If these sockets would be on the same ring, the cable have to go up to the loft and then down to the next socket. (maybe few exception like the two sockets next to each other over the kitchen counter) Is it good enough for the electricians like this and can do all the wiring later? (the reason I am doing this way is, I may add some home-automation cabling if/when necessary)

Very helpful thank you .? Ok I will go for 938. I was considering manifold system to install a central room by room temperature control system with out TRVs. For an other property 3 bed+1 bath but with a potential loft/ensuite (in few years maybe): Is it too much to put a 938 now or are they efficient enough even for smaller properties?

if the joist are straight and cut the insulation board a bit angled that fit gets tighter when pushed between the joists, would that be enough to keep the insulation safe in all weathers and in the future?