OllyH

Thanks for the info JFDIY. I’ll look into it and also give Vent Axia a call on Tuesday

Yeah it’s been installed as if it were a left hand unit instead of right. Just need to swap it all over. Cheers

Thanks for your responses. I’ll check the manual and report back. We don’t have a lot of leeway at all. The feeds to the manifolds will have to be swapped over.

This is the diagram on the unit. The top right has all the bathroom ducting connected to it

Hi everyone, My builder has installed by Vent Axia unit for me. I’ve just switched it on for the first time and noticed all the extraction vents are blowing air into the bathrooms and living area vents are drawing air in!! I’ve checked the manifolds have been connected correctly, the diagram on the unit has a logo showing air flow being removed from the house and this is the connection that has the bathroom ducting manifold. Anyone else experienced this? Thanks Olly

Thanks for the reply. The original design was for a bolt on additional structure, this was tapered however. We changed this to square edge so thought it would then be easier Construction wise to continue the joists through instead. I’ve been told to look at Proclima membranes and Siga tapes as a moisture barrier and with PIR between the joists to limit cold bridging. i look the Tony trays up too. Thanks Olly

Hi all, We are currently building a single storey flat warm roof dwelling. We have large glazing which is south facing so have a 1.2m roof overhang designed also. The Easi joists can span beyond our SIP to create the overhang. Just wondered your thoughts on cold bridging and how to minimise this. I’m going to put PIR between the joists to fill the void. Should I just pack out the Easi Joist itself too? Thanks

Yes Chris at Kingspan is dealing with this for me. I’ll keep a firm eye on my technical drawings from KS and my Architect. Thanks for the heads up.

I see from your post that you had to cut some of the boards. I wasn’t under the impression I had to do this. I had better check. This system seems like the way forward for me. Thanks

Hi all, My self build is a flat roof single story L shaped bungalow. The roof is quite complex in that the L is at 110degrees not 90 and we have a wing at the front of the property that leads off the main dwelling to a garage. The total roof area is 257m2 but some of this is a overhang roof so I only need PIR insulation over 234m2 area. I've had quotes from the main tapered roof suppliers and Kingspan have come out the cheapest at £6.5k (£27.77 per m2) to achieve an average U Value of 0.17. I've then costed using 150mm Celotex PIR boards and timber firrings and this method was coming out more expensive. Has anyone had any experience of tapered PIR? They can be adhered to the OSB deck and GRP can be laid directly on the PIR boards. Seems quite a quick and simple solution and in this case cost effective. Cheers

Yes I can run the CAT 6 throughout the rooms and via the ceiling void to save on labour. I'll discuss ideas above with my Sparky before we get started. Cheers

Cheers for the replies. I'm in Norfolk (East). Does £10k sound quite heavy? Will be LED downlighters in most rooms and a bit of external lighting too which is why I budgeted that figure. I'll suggest CAT 6 throughout and install as suggested. We have Easi Joists in the ceiling and SIPs build so there will be a service cavity behind the plasterboard. Cheers

Hi all. I embarking on my first self build next month. We have a budget set for electrical work, lights and switches of £10k (200m2 flat roof bungalow). I'd like to try and future proof the build so I can install CCTV, network servers, home automation etc at a later date. What should I be asking my electrician to install now. Just a load of CAT 6/7 cabling into the main rooms (remembering their exact locations) and then terminate into a singe location where the servers will reside? Any help or experiences greatly received. Cheers