Toppers

Superb that looks perfect, many thanks.

I have a stab of 15mm plastic pipe with an isolator connected to the mains and need to connect the plastic fitting for a water cooler to it, both fittings are of a different size with the white plastic water cooler one being the larger, what do I need to do to make the connection?

I don't really want a gap at the top as it will look unsightly, the Keku clips may be the best idea, there is a void behind the units so I can't really screw from inside.

Our kitchen layout has 3no units in an L shape where the backs are exposed, I'm intending to cover over with back panels some of which I will need to remove at a later data, can anyone recommend a fixing clip/method for this. I also need to fix 2no back panels directly to the back of a unit that has a recess in the back, they need to be secret fixed and can be permanently fitted, any recommendations for this as well please.

The tight area for the floor in our room to be tiled is 34.2m2 the tiles are 800 x 800 how much should I allow over for cuts etc, the tiles are readily available should I need a few more at the end.

I'm going for 12mm backer board, would you use Ardex for that, also any particular type of screw?

I'm not aware of this product so: How is it applied Will it give the same benefits to the underfloor heating as the backer board (conducting heat)

Our new kitchen extension has an 18mm chipboard floor, the existing kitchen is floorboards, both are fairly sound and solid. I'm planning to go over both floors with 6mm tile backer board and then obviously tile on top, what adhesive and screws would you recommend for the backer board, we have underfloor heating in the extension so will need to be careful with screw length.

I'm currently fitting our kitchen base units to the existing timber floor, the floor finish is going to be tiled, I believe in only tiling up to the unit legs (then fitting the plinths) rather than all the way through, would I be better fitting the base end panels after the tiles are down so they are fitted neatly to the floor?

That looks pretty good to be fair, you didn't get your units from DIY-Kitchens by any chance did you?

This is almost exactly the situation, there are 25mm heating pipes on brackets with the 45mm waste in front. I'm going to see if I can get the waste any lower so its beneath plinth level but I don't want to lose the fall on the pipe. Not sure if a small Saniflo would be of use if I did that. I might do as you say then maybe screw a timber to the wall to fix the units to.

Thats possibly my best option, we are having quartz worktops which will be cut to suit so would just mean that that worktop would be slightly deeper.

We have waste pipe that would be very difficult to re-locate along a wall where we have a run of new base units, there are also heating pipes which is making the whole thing protrude from the wall around 80mm, my fear is that we will struggle to fit in the integrated oven that is 550mm deep, has anyone got over a similar issue?

In my new build extension we have a small utility room (1.8 x 1.2m) conjoined with a small WC (0.9 x 1.8m) BC have specified ventilation for each room (30l/s and 6l/s) both these will be in line with each other, what is the best solution to vent each to the outside wall on the end elevation, I would like to vent both to one outlet if possible due to limited space.

Thanks, is it worth wetting the wall first at all or just stick onto the dry blockwork?

A few questions: Is there a better trowel to use for applying the dots to the wall? I'm applying the plasterboards (12.5mm square edge) to new blockwork do I need to PVA the walls first before the dots? Should I do the window/door reveals first before boarding across the face?

I'm told my heating system is a Y plan system, I have flow and return pipes running from the loft to the ground floor it has a 3 port valve next to the boiler. Could i tee off the flow and return directly or would I need to fit a 2 port valve somewhere?

Our radiators are in regular use, would I need to fit something else?

Its not a combi its a tank fed system.

Can anyone confirm thats it ok to connect UFH to a conventional boiler?

Just be cautious of using ply to tile on, hardiebacker would be much better, even ply manufacturers are not recommending its use these days.

There are some boxed in vertical 22mm pipes in the kitchen which I aim to investigate, I think they potentially could be the answer.

I've got some of the above questions answered by a local UFH supplier, next question: As the UFH is to go in a new extension what is the best way to get a connection to flow and return pipework from the boiler to the UFH pipes, our boiler is in the loft and is not easily accessible from the extension.

Quite a few factors, i'm getting conflicting info on: Where the manifold needs to be fitted and do I need one at all If I do fit one does it have to be connected to the boiler directly Do I use PUG (25mm) or ali spreader plates What does the floor then need to consist of (the final floor finish will be tiles) Will it be effective to heat the room (approx 17m2) well insulated with bi-fold doors

Its not a change its a new build extension.