Toppers

We have a small porcelain paved area on our back garden which was sealed after being laid, the wife put some decorative plant pots on it which once removed have left circular brown marks on the pavers, I've tried to jet wash them off but they won't budge, any suggestions to clean it up and prevent it happening again.

I used Eva-Last Infinity I-Series, its the trade one not the product sold in Wickes, its a good strong deck board, cuts fairly easily and looks good, we got the Pewter colour, the clips are a little fiddly at first but ok once you get used to them.

I'm thinking the sleeper on edge may be the best option, would I need to concrete it down or is there another fixing method?

Mine is about 250mm off the ground, I concreted some posts in at the front edge to carry it then I've fixed it to the house with masonry bolts, I've also put some legs down to the ground here and there, it's solid as a rock.

I'm putting some astroturf down and its got a natural border on two sides but I will need to put something in on the other two sides (each 4.2m long) to act as a retainer and give me something to work up to, i'd rather not be concreting anything in if it can be helped. Any suggestions?

I've gone 400mm centres and put some cross bracing noggins in and it seems fine.

I think 4 x 2's would be fine to be honest, I'm going for 400mm centres and i'll put some extra support in.

I'm using Eva-Last decking, they sell a board that's grooved on only one edge to use round the perimeter, the other boards are fixed with clips but I'm not sure how you fix the last board as yet ?

My decking will be raised off the floor around 250mm, I did ideally want a composite sub-frame as well but these seem to need to be laid directly onto a solid surface, are there any other compatible sub-frames I could use? My other consideration is timber finished on the top edge with a waterproof tape. What size timber would be best for the joists?

Thanks Mike that's good to hear, I couldn't bare the thought of so much waste.

Does anyone know if its possible (or advisable) to put a joint in composite decking, the planks I'm wanting are 3.6m but the deck I want is only 2.4m, it seems shame to lose the offcut but I could use it if it can be joined on the next run.

You haven't met the wife ?

its not so much the install that's the issue, there just seems to be very little choice at 5000 BTU's.

We are wanting to replace our standard white single panel radiator in our living room with something a bit more "designer" the current one is 2000 x 600mm, I can't seem to find anything that's a bit more easy on the eye at that width, a BTU calculator says I would need just shy of 5000 to heat this particular room (5 x 3.5 x 2.5m) which narrows the search down even further. Can anyone advise on my options please.

I'm not so sure they are exactly as the Tobermore ones tend to have a more ragged edge and don't seem to have the slight chamfer around the perimeter, they may be ok for what I want to do though.

I'm looking for about 2m2 of the setts below to patch in after some alterations, they were laid about 15 years ago but I have no recollection of the type, I'd accept something similar if these are discontinued.

There are a few vents, whats best thing to keep the airflow, I assume some sort of duct?

Another option is to cast a concrete slab if thats feasible.

We have bi-fold doors on our newly built kitchen/dining room opening onto the garden, my original plan was to put a composite decking patio immediately outside these doors to create a level floor as you step out. At the moment composite decking is proving quite difficult to get hold of. I've changed tact and thought of building a brick retaining wall (approx 3no bricks high), infilling and tiling on top. So a few queries: What sort of depth would the footing need to be Would the retaining wall need to be a cavity wall I assume it would need to be concreted to lay the tiles on top, is that correct

That sounds like it would do the trick, building control have never made any mention of it being accessible and they have approved the plans.

Good idea but the price is a little scary. How much space is there behind a normal pan to fit a 90 deg pan connector?

The room is approx 1m x 1.2m. I don't think a corner pan would work as the soil pipe stub stack is in the only corner where it could go.

Both walls are external cavity walls that have been dot & dabbed, the studwork idea would probably eat too much into the already limited space.

I've attached a PDF of the layout. WC.pdf

We have created a very small WC in our extension and plan to fit a reduced projection WC the soil stack is off to the right so the pan connector would have to join from there, what models would be suitable?