redtop

no, ceder cladding. I have all the tools and no money so no chance of getting a joiner in, just got to get on with it! if someone can point me to a blog / website with some good photos, that would be great. I have the trada books as a guide as well.

and the outside will have wood fibber boards as per NBT building system (and insulation between studs) https://www.natural-building.co.uk/system/timber-frame-clad/

its propasive OSB and floor ply has just been treated to keep it weatherproof while build stalled. joists are at 400mm centres, drawings below show details at junctions plus SEs drawings. Not a chance of getting more detailed drawings. note all this is being stick built on site due to horrible access and I have hand balled 100 joists and 50 OSB sheets for next phase

CV-19 was the excuse, further digging and well. I cant say at this stage.... Yes we have 100 joists for next stage, pro-passive for sheafing and 50 pack of OSB for flat roof. so most of it. designs and pics attached

So timber frame, 1st floor walls and OSB sheafing done and builder gone! Don't ask, its cost us a fortune which means doing rest myself. Kitchen area and half of lounge is 1 floor with flat roof. 2nd floor site over half lounge with large overhang, again flat roof. Lots of steels as you can imagine which are all fitted. I desperately need to get on with build, could someone point me at some images, threads where I can see how you fix joists to top of ground floor walls, or ANY images of a stick build that show how the next stage fits together. Sorry for the rather wide ranging nature of the question but this has been completely unexpected and I must get on with getting at least some of it watertight. Note we are using solid timber joists and these have already been delivered, thanks everyone

I should add, sorry, the ground actually slops up the last 5m to where the 2m deep manhole needs to go, so I could just lower that area by 0.5m and drop a 1.5m manhole down; I have plenty of space to use the spoil

no. they connected a 100MM pipe to the public sewer, brought it under the public path into my land and then brought it out of the ground in a vertical stack. Site is on sloping ground and we didn't know where the final levels would be. south west water were fine. BC have signed of the foul pipes under house to inspection chamber (shallow) so now we just need to connect the inspection chamber to the sewer pipe and install a 600mm manhole at that end. your idea sounds ideal! would it still work with the extra info above?

so I have to connect the shallow inspection chamber to the pipe that has been connected to the main sewer. This connection as been connected and brought into my land and inspected. The distance between the 2 is 20M. The difference in height is aprox 1.5M invert to invert (in the right direction fortunately!). SO do I run the main drain at 1:25; very steep. Or 1:80 and then put in a dropshaft just before manhole (which in total will be 2M deep). I would put in a horizontal bit for rodding. This is going to be very mandrolic so the easiest option is preferred!

thanks peter, so otherwise the pipe sizes look OK to you?

so I have a 22mm copper mains feed for my cold water manifold which I want to build / install and want to use HEP2O with a central manifold and a separate pipe for each feed. If I use 15mm for the bath, kitchen and utility sink and 10mm for washbasins and toilets does this sound right? I would keep a couple of 22mm blanked of for the UFH heating when ready for that.

yep, the floguard is exactly what I was looking at. but its far more expensive than the JTM one at just over a fiver so was wondering if theres a difference and is it worth paying a few extra quid. anyhow thanks peter, was looking at the older pics of your manifold, a thing of beauty lol and ive took a screenshot ?

lol, thanks ? trying to get all the little bits I can whilst our builder isn't on site.

I know you good folk usually respond, and no response means no views either way, but just checking before I order one as there seems to be a large variation in price for this humble bit of kit, cheers yalll

for rising main, any recommendations on what one to go for? cheers

so plan isr 32mm MDPE rising main (that was already there), into house and then stop tap, down to 28mm, DCV, drain and then pressure reducer, 28mm to 22mm tee and will then use the 2 22mm for outside tap and the other to feed stuff around the house. I have split the 32mm before it comes into the house for sprinklers, so that's sorted. got all the stuff except the DCV, seem to be so many types out there does anyone have any recommendations. I have read they cause loss of pressure, and do I need a DCV or single check. argh plumbing. give me electrics any day

thanks everyone, good advice and I will be going with polypipe / brett martin

any views on quality of floplast v polypipe v marley? Both floplast and polypipe seem readily available, marley less so. Once I get pipe out of the ground and into the stack, branches, etc is the quality the same for each company? cheers yall

did it with gabions, took ages but was very cheap, 10 3/4 tonne bags of quarry waste at 20 quid a bag. chucked a few blocks in each basket as well and got enough facing quality stone from the quarry waste to face about 1 1/2 gabions per bag. rear gabion wall is 2M high but only 0.5M deep to reduce digging into rock, had to use vertical steels in concrete to make them more stable. All works fine; cheap but slow and hard work.

So we have the ground floor walls up but no 2nd floor or roof. And builders have downed tools for now. I want to catch up with some jobs I can do. We are using propassive OSB as the racking and airtight layer, which has been fitted on ground floor timber walls. Can I install the air tight tape (Sicrall 60) over the OSB joints and screw penetrations or will it get damaged if it then rained on (which is inevitable). Should add I was thinking of putting a 2nd layer of standard waterproof builders tape over the silca to protect it. ore work but think I have plenty of time on my hands for now...

the diagram I posted is slightly wrong, sorry. you can have one supply for both house and sprinkler provided the right type of meter has been fitted, which has. Havnt really looked at misting systems, thought they were expensive but will take a look, D