JCL

I know what you mean. We ended up using linear windows and eurocell sliding doors as the whole bill for this was 3x cheaper than just having the expensive sliding door options alone! Must say, no draught, and very warm!

Hi all, we have a little problem with a little water getting on the door trays mainly We have upvc windows fitted flush to the outside of a 9x2 timber frame. we have rendered reveals from the back of the stone work to the upvc windows and doors. (Around 3/4” worth of render pointed over the window / door frames 25mm ish. we have taped dpc around the windows and doors using butyl tape, tyvec tape below that. we have a small bit of water ingress in what we think the point where the render meets the cill. We think as we struggled to achive a good finish with dpc & tapes etc around this section - we are getting some water getting onto the tray underneath the window and door frames. unfortunately i didnt go to the expense of using lead trays so we have thick dpc home made trays instead, meaning i think we should do some remedial work. so my question is- is it worth hacking off the render and replace with a waterproof pre mixed render system? Keep exiting render, and add another 12mm of a water proof render over the top again? And or Use a permaseal type of product (masonry cream) onto the existing render. - then potentially add a thin layer of pre mixed waterproof render over the top? Thank you in advance, would like to hear peoples opinions. Thanks

We have 3 eurocell upvc ones. Good doors, just make sure the drains in them are working correctly as ours is draining on the corner of the frame making the tray under the door wet.

@Mr Punter Thank you. Do you think over doing u values is needed? Ours is meant to be 0.18 for walls 0.15 ceilings

Actis or fiberglass insulation? We have 225 studs in external walls and ceilings. Including the vaulted ceilings. I cant see much difference in the prices. Actis seem to be able to smash the u values to pieces so we would be over insulated. However will have to counter batten everything. Or mineral wool and we wouldn't have to counter batten… but still able to achieve the u values?

@FranArch

B we were thinking was only option. If we do more stone we are going to use thermo wood at the top. Just figuring wether to keep the cill up that high, or pack the timber out so the cladding runs over the stone…

Yes i was thinking b (accoya) really was the only option in my opinion. Although allot of people just use thermo pine!

@JamesP hi James yes i presume we will have to just use bigger timbers and use bigger skrews i guess… or counter batten it 4 times… still working that one out. I am confident skrewing a 3x2 using coach skrews but i feel 4x2 or bigger is allot to skrew through

@JamesP perfect thats just like ours will be. How did you pack off the cladding to bring it over the stone work? Ours is timber frame and i need to pack it out 200mm ….

Thank you James p. Many people have said this. And incorporating a slate cill would look very nice. Vertical cladding we are having.. but i wonder if we packed the cladding so it then came over the stone work… ?

Thanks mr p- we have to have timber cladding for the self build mortgage & planning…

.

Hi our plans state stone to the window cills then timber clad above.. its a class q. We wondered if we should bring the stone higher so to enhance the weatherproofing around the windows opposed to timber.. then bring timber over the stone face at the gables. Do we think this is necessary? How much timber cladding is too much?

I think, maybe bringing the timber out over the stone may be easier to achieve a better finish if it were higher up. Although it may not look so architecturally designed maybe…