NBW

Hi all. Having purchased Ecosash windows, we are now looking to buy french doors for our build. We have gone to 4 suppliers Timber Windows Rom Valley ASG We origionally wanted Timber but the costs are so high for them. Here are the figures. What are peoples opinions on TimberLook? Trying to see some french doors from Timberlook is very very difficult... Timber Windows Redwood Front door £4,094.80 £818.96 £4,913.76 French door set 1 £6,316.30 £1,263.26 £7,579.56 French door set 2 £6,316.30 £1,263.26 £7,579.56 French door set 3 £6,363.14 £1,272.63 £7,635.77 French door set 4 £6,259.73 £1,251.95 £7,511.68 Single door with sidelights £4,841.21 £968.24 £5,809.45 Back door £3,552.57 £710.51 £4,263.08 Timber Assured (Deposit and Warranty protection policy) £83.93 £16.79 £100.72 £37,827.98 £7,565.60 £45,393.58 Discount 15% £5,674.20 £1,134.84 £6,809.04 Total £32,153.78 £6,430.76 £38,584.54 Timber Windows Evolution Front door 3,559.49 711.9 4,271.39 French door set 1 5,128.65 1,025.73 6,154.38 French door set 2 5,128.65 1,025.73 6,154.38 French door set 3 5,128.65 1,035.76 6,164.41 French door set 4 5,012.45 1,002.49 6,014.94 Single door with sidelights 3,573.83 714.77 4,288.60 Back door 3,018.37 603.67 3,622.04 Total 30,550.09 6120.05 36,670.14 Rom Valley Estimated breakdown of costs, only have a total figure R9 French door set 1 4,234.17 846.83 5,081.00 French door set 2 4,234.17 846.83 5,081.00 French door set 3 4,241.67 848.33 5,090.00 French door set 4 4,138.33 827.67 4,966.00 Single door with sidelights 2,950.83 590.17 3,541 Back door 2,492.50 498.50 2,991 Total 22,291.67 4,458.33 26,750.00 AGS Estimated breakdown of costs, only have a total figure Timberlook Front door 4,234.17 846.83 2,557 French door set 1 4,234.17 846.83 3,684.00 French door set 2 3,070.00 614.00 3,684.00 French door set 3 3,075.00 615.00 3,690.00 French door set 4 3,000.00 600.00 3,600.00 Single door with sidelights 2,139.17 427.83 2,567 Back door 1,806.67 361.33 2,168 Total 18,291.67 3,465.00 21,950.00 Without front door 19,393.00 I think we would go with a timber front door but the rest will be either R9 or Timberlook. The cost of TimberLook is almost too good to say no. They also do Chrome hinges which R9 do not do. Thanks Nick

Funnily enough I have spent a considerable amount of time looking at 24v v 230v lighting. Not having solar, too concerned with efficiency, I am leaning to @MortarThePoint approach I am worried that 24v LED lighting won't be as bright or easier to source as typical 230 lighting.

Thanks both I think as you both mentioned, the first phase is to get someone over ot test how airtight our property is. Slightly difficult at the moment as we are without doors. This might be the first action, an air tightness test

Hi So we have performed a huge refurb. Understably budget has been hit hard and we have scaled the build back. One area we have overlooked in extractors and someone mentioned if I had looked at MVHR, and I have jumped down a huge rabbit hole. Getting ventilation downstairs now will be tricky but I will be able to do this for all the bedrooms and ensuite upstairs through the loft. Is there any value looking at MVHR for just upstairs? I might be able to gain access to the kitchen downstairs but other rooms might be difficult. Any good literature to read up on? Thanks Nick.

Thanks all for the replies. I was planning on using multiple RGBW 24V Dimmer Tree in the Loxone cab and using each of the 4 channels to powers 4 smaller rooms with spots. Principle with this idea was for ~£80, i get to control 4 small rooms Most rooms and en-suites have RGBW compact devices in the loft to control LED light strip lighting in the ceiling or walls. Mixing RGBW tree devices and Dimmer extensions meant i could dim all the light circuits bar a couple, with the dimmer extensions controlling the larger spaces. Moving to whitewing means i dont have the restrictions on load for dimmers that the RGBW was going to give me. I also claw back cab space which is important. The Rely extension will be doing: - Towel Rail On/Of - Loft Lights - Garden Lights - Drive Lights - Heating - Pendant Lights - Velux Control - KLF-200 - Pumps Quick overview of the build components: MiniServer 2 Audio Server - 8 Masters and 3 Clients Tree Extension AO Extension - Valiant Boiler control Interface 0-10V VR34 Air Extension ModBus Air - report on Air Source Heat Pump Weather Station Tree Alarm Siren Tree Nano DI Tree's - Damper control for extractor fan management in en-suites DI Extension Backup Power Supply Having installed sash windows, i have cat cables ran to every pain to report on open/closed status. I now need to print some clips for the sensors to mount to and to fit them into the panes Looking at a Loxberry to have some additional features to pull data from https://atlas-scientific.com/ I also had priced up 16 x Valve Actuator Tree device for the manifolds but i think i am going to try and balance the temp and flow across the house. Happy for any feedback or suggestions

It's an air source heat pump. 32kw Are there DIY kits which include batteries?

I have a swimming pool heater and I would like to add solar panels to the pool shed Firstly is this even an option. Secondly is it worth it with the size. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Interestingly So i save over £1500 moving to WhiteWing Relays and Dimmer control form Loxone Name Cost 1st Floor Inputs Ground Floor Inputs Shed Total Inputs Device Inputs Total Total Cost Relay Extension 396.636 28 10 8 46 14 4 1189.908 Dimmer Extension 542.364 5 0 5 4 2 1084.728 RGBW 24V Dimmer Tree SPOTS 93.768 12 7 19 4 5 468.84 Cost With VAT Total Inputs Total Devices Cost 16 Channel DMX relay controller RLY16-D 175 210 35 3 630 16- channel DMX AC LED dimmers DIM8-ACL 375 450 8 1 450 Total 1080 I would then need to buy the DMX extension @£350 I havent looked at DMX before. Reading up its a very well established protocol. Other than cost, i can see cab space being. big saver as well. Are there benefits to using Loxone over WhiteWing? Thanks for the help everyone.

Interesting, i have not seen Whitewing before. What are peoples reviews on Whitewing DMX dimmers over the very expensive Loxone Extensions? I have time to switch over. I have read some issues with the Loxone Dimmer and dimming LED's. Has anyone had this issue. Assuming no one has had issues with Whitewing DMX controls? Thanks Nick

My Affinity Designer 2 trial has expired so now need to work out how i can get another shot at it to ensure i a have enough space. I am now considering if i have enough space. Current equipment list is: House 4 x Relay Extension 2 x Dimmer Extension 5 x RGBW 24V Dimmer Tree SPOTS 3 x RGBW 24V Dimmer Tree LED Strips 1 x Tree Extension 1 x MiniServer 1 x 1-Wire Extension 1 x AO Extension 1 x Audio Server 1 x Loxone Power and Backup The shed will house 1 x Relay Extension 1 x PSU 1 x nano DI

Hi all I am about to pull a trigger for a LXN5-D from Future Automation Certainly not the cheapest but seems like its the best on the market. Annoyingly Future Automation only del with the trade. Any recommendations on where i can purchase a cab from? Thanks Nick

Thanks Nick

Thanks for the reply. Yes they are block walls. Tomorrow I will get some better photos. Thanks for confirming to put the stairs in first

Hi all We have pulled our house apart and have removed the old staircase. We have changed stair location and are now at a point of looking at stair building websites. We are unsure whether to wait and plaster the walls or is it common to fit the stairs then plaster the walls. As you can see the stairs runs across 3 walls. We have had a few windows and doors moved so there is a lot to replaster around the staircase. Do we - Order and fit the staircase to the have the walls plastered? - plaster the walls and then order and fit the staircase? Thanks

Hi everyone We are having some work done and moving the kitchen from the front to the side of the property. The builder has suggested to channel out the floor and run the water feed along the study floor and in the ceiling, down to the new location. I have concerns about this. We have UFH downstairs so the cold water will be heated. The UFH will be laid on top so will be extremely expensive if we have a leak I have suggested we wait until the scaffolding comes down and we run the cold water feed outside in 25mm to the utility where we can tee off to where the feeds are required Any other thoughts? Is this the best method to relocate the water? Thanks