deasonuk

All kicking off today when I had an hour....so frigging easy and clean with the multi tool. Even used it to shave down the back of the channels. Need to get on with the rest of it now!

Thanks chaps, I thought about plastic but as bending copper it's giving me old school peace of mind.

Update on this post @Nickfromwales, I think I am going to put the valve into the thermalite wall. 1. It means my arm wont get wet 2. Wont be worrying about the 50mm stud conundrum and that being tight as a ducks butt, I've had the Abacus Mounting plate come in and that is going to take 10/15 mm. I've decided to got a pipe bender to run the 15mm down and up from the original water feeds in the loft. Pic has where I plan to run up pipe work. I've got a 3 way crossbox backing valve and two way front plate, One thing im thinking about is running the 3rd outlet under the bath and blanking it off, it provides future owners with the option to change the front valve plate to three way and use the bath filler. Is that just me being OTT? I know you mentioned you've used a Multi before, was that with a carbide tipped blade?

I'm looking for about 10 of these but cannot find them in small batches ANYWHERE to put plywood support boards on my metal studding. Is anyone able to recommend an alternative option other than Gypsum manufactured thats obviously for plot builds. Thanks in advance https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/british-gypsum-gypframe-service-support-plate-130mm-pack-of-100?utm_source=awin&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=Bidnamic&aw_affid=786113&awaid=23859&gclid=CjwKCAiAjojLBhAlEiwAcjhrDm9gjrTeKZ_KTtTMXfM1dQPM4YLAXvXgpMYS_5HxoF-6Nmamr8yC8RoCP2UQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23034865346&gbraid=0AAAAA-gP1JMg_UupKCO1lM5rX8GrEievz https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/metal-products/gypframe-service-support-plate-18-mm#standards https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/metal-products/gypframe-ga4-steel-angle

Happy new year to you too...another day off today for some Build work!

I went for a fitting/design yesterday and got unsold on using a three way valve for the mains taps if I can. (Im on unvented) Recommendation was down to the Thermostat not giving enough temperature for a bath and the pressure drops. Although the guys a salesman I'm happy to take his advice and have a think about it.

Previous late 90's house has had 40MM pipe running along in boxing that I'd quite like to remove in my bathroom refit if it's feasible and do a wall hung basin. Existing mains feed spurs off existing 22mm pipe directly up through the floorboards, I planned on spurring off this 22mm direct into the Stud wall. Waste outlet hole is 40mm to the soil stack. I plan on extending enough 40mm for the bath drainage and then for the sink basin I thought I'd be able to go 32mm from sink to 40mm and run this through the stud but reviewing a few posts it doesn't sound possible to put the pipe through Metal stud (Needing to drill for holes) and also will mean sound issues? (It will be 20/30mm Tileback to front. The fall is another challenge, the wall width is approximately 1500mm. Am I right/wrong on this and does anyone have advice on this ? Boxing would be possible but clutter this room big time so I'd really like to avoid this if I can sensibly and easily.

Do water pressures differ between what a Waste bath fillers has and normal spouts?

Yes mate, this stuff has crossed my mind. Maybe lets even get the thing bloody ordered first lol

This is a cross water valve, parts are likely to be available. I did stay in a hotel and did like the grohe value. This valve needs 80MM though so knackers me even more!

Nick when can you start on my job as I'll probably be finished by June at this rate lol. I see what you mean about piping, I'll be overlapping the pipe run and im going to be using Pushfit so throws thickness of ply out. Looking this morning I'm just about to buy this plate https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/abacus-easi-plan-universal-shower-valve-fitting-plate-epfp-05-3005/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21120514031&gbraid=0AAAAADtJBDoeHhMCLjeUK4FC2lrF_Qksj&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Y7KBhCkARIsAOxhqtP1ohFy0mOf-5zB5qx8SJeuu7FTAlUho74Upi9bA6eaf1QVWLH5lnMaAjeREALw_wcB That means I won't be on Plyboard for the Pattress but im assuming very thin frame here. I can't find any dimensions on depth of this thing. Maybe better as an option ?

Hi, I was posting in the thread about extending stud. Maybe more appropriate in this section is whether the options are actually suitable! Does this work for concealed valve to a minimum line fitting?

Going to be skimming and adding downlights. I have an extractor behind where I've taken this picture with ducting already. The block wall is an outside wall, it's breeze then London brick.

Hi, I have taken down Plasterboard to prepare for a concealed shower. I have metal stud that is 50MM The current wall is PB on the adjacent room already screwed into the Metal stud. My depth is 50MM, a concealed valve will need about 75MM to comfortably have a patress/batten to put the valve on and room to pipe in. The other issue is I need 1700mm for the eventual bath. Being a DIY idiot I'm not sure what is going to be the most viable. I do have other options to conceal the shower which involves channelling breeze, this is preferred but never done this before, and also if it (Ever) went wrong on the stud wall I can get access from behind. I wish I had a bigger bathroom lol

Oh don't worry Nick I've slipped the tools in from Lidl with the weekly food shop, needless to say as usual with the shopping cost she didn't realise.

Thanks. Picture attached. I will be doing nogs to support the fixings yes, builders on original build used leftover floorboard lol It's a DIY project and the first hence the caution!

In my bathroom I'm replacing I have got a stud wall I will be housing a shower, basin and most like porcelain lumps of tile! Advice I need if anyone can help is; -I need to put on a shower board as I would like to be going concealed -Will adding in C Stud be needed here to be safer than sorry? -If I do add stud the wall adjacent is already there and screwed in with 12mm PB. How do you deal with this? Screw from the inside of the Stud with small screws towards this wall so it just goes in the PB? For wall I'm thinking I will either be using Tile board or some Hardie that's tanked.

That's another challenge I need to work out the stud situation. Posting about stud wall in another thread for input

Thanks Nick, I thought I'd be looking at doing that sort of arrangement. Would you take the full board out or do the same along the opposite side?

I'm redoing my bathroom and have chipboard down. I want to reroute existing Mains water feeds for the basin and it would involve removing enough to get to where it comes off existing 22MM pipe shown. Joist and joint line for one 600mm wide board is in blue. What can I do to replace this section of floorboard based on it being under the stud at the moment? Also, I've gone through the existing board in another section with the SDS ripping tiles up, is this repairable with just cutting out and noggin it etc?

I have two problems. Problem 1 Neighbour has my garage wall run alongside his garden (As I have on my opposite neighbour). The neighbour has just put a pergola construction in that must be about 60CM from the property. They have also put decking in right up to it appears the garage wall. I glanced over the fence and failed to see any gap. Before the decking There was a concrete and paved floor underneath this new decking. The pergola also has an angled lined roof that I can see will direct water run off...at the bottom of my garage wall. Problem 2 If I ever need to do my fascias on the garage wall it's not going to be made easy. What happens here? I've raised this whole build with the council planning to seek some advice, is this the normal thing to do?