DownSouth

+1. Being 5’3’’ our new kitchen is designed to have 600-800 wide drawers everywhere, no tall units (3/4 fridge and 3/4 freezer) and no wall cupboards at all. We’re lucky to have a utility which will have tall cupboards and a ladder for all the stuff we don’t use so much. We’ve stuck a long window over where the sink will be and I honestly can’t wait to do some dishes! 🤣

I know you’re looking at the fenestration. We ended up with four bedrooms, all in corners of the house. One has only one window, the other 3 have windows on both aspects. It makes a massive difference to the feel of those rooms, light coming in at different times of the day instead of just one aspect and one view. The other bedroom feels a bit pokey by comparison. I’d be trying to get another window into the master bedroom. Your dining room window looks small, the dining/kitchen looks to be in the wrong place. Will your kitchen get enough natural light? It looks very symmetrical. Did they design the outside first without any thought to how the light will affect each room? We’ve got a similar shape but smaller footprint. I think the nicest view of it is one where all the windows are different shapes and sizes, designed to fit the function of each room.

Using a Scottish TF company who detailed fire battens around the doors and windows. Building in England and a local cladding company fitted them - it’s not that common to use TF round here. Struggling to find detailed design for how they are meant to be fitted so wanted to check: 1. Is it right to fit them so close to the frame? 2. How would they usually be detailed underneath? Our above window detail means they will always be visible. 3. Does doing it this way mean they’ll deteriorate faster than the windows as they’ll be exposed to light and weather? Grateful if anyone can share pics or diagram of what they’ve done.

We used Paul heat recovery and have installed the pipes ourselves to their design. as @JohnMo commented they are not the cheapest but they are helpful with advice, so as first timers it suited us. They supplied everything except the pipe from inside out to the ASHP itself. Of which we over ordered by 2 1/2 metres - I’ll stick the spare bit it on Marketplace - but if anyone reading this thread wants it then do message me.

It increased the cost by £17,000 in comparison to a 2.5-3m strip foundation. The cost of concrete was driving it, so if you need 3m you might be better piling.

We are on clay, 8m from trees and mature farm hedge. 20 CFA piles, ground beam and B&Beam was our SE’s solution.

We had Sainsburys insurance for our previous renovation - had to declare the cost of the work and timescale. Think they were happy with <£100k works within 1-2 years so if yours is bigger budget not sure they’d cover it.

Who is it asking for the checklist? We’re installing one too, no flue. My understanding is Part J Section 4 asks only that a carbon monoxide alarm is fitted in the same room. if you look at the checklist it doesn’t seem to apply (Appendix A). Also if it did it looks like competent self builders (us) could complete it themselves and just leave the ‘registered membership of…’ line blank.

Hoping someone has come across this before. We have Rationel aluclad doors installed by the TF erection team which look great but are stiff/almost impossible to open and close. The lock mechanism just doesn’t want to engage. In some we have to push from outside while someone is inside trying to lock - which is not ideal if we both want to be in the house! Our installers say it’s probably down to the additional cladding weight. The cladders say not their fault, doors should still work despite the extra weight and the cladding isn’t pressing on the frames. A spirit level shows the frame is bowed, but it did open when first installed. Now it’s almost impossible to shut and get the lock mechanism engaged. There’s no cladding on this one yet. We’ve tried adjusting it but how to deal with the frame issue is the question. Several doors have the issue of difficulty locking after opening them. Any ideas what to do next?

We have a window upstairs but not in the downstairs shower room so might need to add a sensor. Although it won’t be used that much…

@Bramco that’s the unit we are planning on getting. The website spec below talks about optional wall sensors for humidity and then later states there is an integral sensor. Do you need extra wall sensors fitted to measure the humidity? https://www.bpcventilation.com/zehnder-q350

I’ll leave someone more qualified than me to reply to your question - but just wanted to ask Is the cupboard insulated? I’d be worried about getting woken up every time the heating kicked in.

We had textured/rough sandstone in our previous house, found difficult to pressure wash as it flaked under pressure and had to reseal it afterwards to stop moss. Thinking of using castacrete textured concrete this time, although landscaping feels a long long way off! And it still should be sealed so not sure whether it’ll be less maintenance.

https://abi.bcis.co.uk You can use this calculator to get a ballpark rebuild estimate. Money Saving Expert also has a guide to it.

Our initial rebuild cost for the warranty and the site insurance took account of the fact we’re doing a load of work and all PM. The mortgage company however were only interested in what a professional rebuild cost was - their risk if it all goes wrong and a builder needs to finish it - they need to know what would that cost not self-builders working every hour. We didn’t know that when we took out policies so it cost us more money (hundreds of pounds) because we had to up both the site insurance and warranty to reflect ‘professional reinstatement costs’ in order to get the mortgage released. So going low might not be the best strategy. I’d be interested to know how many SQM the 8-15k quotes are for - is it a huge house or unusual construction you’ve gone for?