boxrick

In the end for future searches I went for 'Sandtoft 20/20 Antique Slate' which are clay slight like and dark. Ideal for a shallow pitch, and got them delivered in a few hours by henshawsroofandbuild for about 7k including batons, ridge and valleys etc. Will update here with pics as they get installed.

Originally my architect specified Tapco or similar for my roof. However due to some changes in my plans my roof is now much stronger and I can basically have anything. With that in mind for around 140-150 square meters of 19 - 23 degree pitch roof. What would be a good option? It would be nice to get the whole roof for under 10k Thoughts?

Price wise the Sarking boards are about £200 more expensive ( for my whole roof ) than OSB3. Roof designer feels they are probably fine, and my builder too. I guess for that much it makes sense to simply get them ordered. I got a quote of £1550 for 120 boards delivered (Steico Universal 22mm 600x2230mm wood fibre sarking board) which feels pretty reasonable and I can have them by Wednesday this week so no real delays. Solitex Plus looks excellent too. I guess its a little higher spec than Proctor Roofshield?

Which ones did you go with?

I need this slightly structural to prevent the twisting my valley beams. Woodfibre sarking boards don't seem to offer any of that. Looking at other softwood 'sarking' boards they seem to be basically just fence panels and about 2x the cost. ( I need around 140-160msquare coverage ).

Hello folks! In summary I am about to install a posi-joist roof sat on some steel ridge beams. Probably filled with cellulose or rockwool, running MVHR through the posi-joists and having the ceiling vaulted. I am currently trying to decide what type of breathable roof membrane to use on top of the OSB3 Sarking Boards. Does anyone have any recommendations of any products which excel at this?

A very generic reply from the manufacturer technical team... whoop

My architect seems to think that we should just leave it at this point. I may float the idea of removal to my builder and gauge his reaction. Given its all fresh bricks and currently dry, removal wouldn't be *that* hard. My feelings are, if / when we flood again ( maybe it will never happen ? ). Just cut into the walls then and rip it all out and replace with blown bead. We could even do a moisture test, its going to be no more expensive that it would be to do it right now?

So now the question is what to do. Leave it in or get them to rip it out and then look at replacement with something like blown bead OR if / when we do flood again we do it at that point. I'm guessing to remove it all will mean a brick removed every meter or so and it all pulled out. The cavity has no weep vents anywhere right now.

Can you clarify? Here are a couple of pictures from about a month ago when the cavity was exposed as it was built up. It looks like there was a slope towards to external wall.

Yes thats the DPC

We still have a whole lot of build to finish off. Money is being sent as each bit is completed. My property currently has no roof, so its far from completion. I have been holding back some funds from each payment for 'snagging' on completion

Hey I appreciate the reply! Just to confirm the specification for closed cell insulation below DPC was definitely due to previous flooding, it has been written in the architect notes because we were flooded earlier this year. There is an entire section on flooding. The superwall 32 has been used instead both above and below DPC, despite the instructions. Given this how serious an issue am I facing if I leave it as is? Should I be pushing the builder to put it right even though the extension is finished, this will be a major piece of work? Does anyone have experience of getting this sort of thing rectified? Any advice on the best way to handle it would be much appreciated. For extra context I plan to apply a tanking / heavy waterproofing slurry externally when works are complete.

So in summary... I am renovating my house. My Architect specified that below DPC rigid closed cell insulation to be used. Above DPC we were using full fill and in this case we have specifically used https://www.superglass.co.uk/products/superwall-32-cavity-wall-batt/ For context we were flooded at the start of the year. I was looking at the cavity of my new porch ( this is the last thing to be built ) and its clear its just full fill with the same material above and below. So now I am worried about this and would like some advice about how much you guys believe it matters, should I be insisting this is rectified ( given that my entire extension has now been built.

I'll move it closer to the border. Sadly looks like it's going to be the blue one now

My builder seems to think we can rest on this current external wall ( it will be internal soon ) which will make the span shorter and all this simpler My structural engineer has said 'It will be steel ridge beams with timber valley beams and rafters' I have asked him to do the structural calculations for this I also contacted Mitek who said they can help, but said only through one of their manufacturers, so I reached out to 3 near to me and am awaiting replies. I think the final thing here is my roof insulation construction is going to be completely different now, currently thinking 300-350mm of Knauf Earthwool Rafter Roll 32 or warmcell as mentioned above

So actually, from the sounds of it. Sacking off the companies, designing my own system based on feedback here is probably a better option?

Yea... as seen in other thread. Warm roof.

Ahh ok And any reason warmcell insulation instead of something like Knauf Earthwool Rafter Roll 32?

Heatpump ( getting a heatgeek to design and install UFH / ASHP system for me ) , see blue for likely or red for preferred but unlikely ( depending on land swap with neighbour )

Thanks so much for sharing this, can these red lines I have added in work as a service void for MVHR pipes and roof lights?

My plant room is located right next to shaded trees, surely it would be the best place for it? If my walls are insulated enough I shouldn't really hear it?

Shes pretty good to be fair, but I think I have made so many design changes at this point I am driving her mad. Regardless I have just contacted Mitek asking for help with a design. Thanks for the push in the right direction. Does anyone have some diagrams or similar to help me understand what it may look like in respect of my 'service void'? I would like to approach passivehaus levels of insulation or as close as I can sensibly get.

My ceilings are really shallow anyway so any loft space is none existent. But as you say it just gives me ultimate flexibility. I have contacted my structural engineer asking for help, I appreciate the advice everyone