Ajm

For a flat (or slightly sloping roof like this) I would always lay the wall plate flat on top of the wall, both front and back the same. Both strapped down. The only times I'ver bolted a plate to the face of the wall is when putting a single storey flat roof extension on a two storey house, so the 'back' wall extends above the flat roof.

Have a look at this thread on another forum: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/help-how-to-fix-a-wall-plate.133457/ it shows how the wall plate rests on top of the wall (bedded on mortar) and straps go across it and down the wall to tie it all down. Then rafters are fixed to wall plate using brackets. In my experience 4x2 for wall plate is fine when used in this way. Looking at the span tables I would say 5x2 a bit small, I would use 6x2 (145x47)

this might help https://www.timberbeamcalculator.co.uk/en-gb/span-table/flat-roof-joists?load=1&class=C16

Thanks @Mr Punter - will BC accept DIY commission since there won't be a 'certificate' with someones name on it! something like: https://www.tester.co.uk/sauermann-kimo-k-si-vv3-rotating-vane-anemometer-hvacr-distribution

We have come to completion on our extension which included relocating kitchen and a new en-suite bathroom Building control have asked for: Extract fan test and commissioning certificate I've never heard of this being needed before. Anyone else come across this and how we go about getting this? The kitchen has an off the shelf extractor (Airflow ICON 60) and the bathrooms are connected to a self-installed MHVR. Thanks for any input

Our UVC has a NRV right at the cold inlet, part of the tank. If yours is like this fitting an EV on the cold won't work! Also should there not be a NRV between the branch for the tank and the feed to the cold manifold to prevent expanded water from the tank feeding into the cold water supply?

We've recently been using ultraplan renovation screed (we found screwfix cheapest!) to level rough and un-level floors throughout. Priming first with 1:1 diluted primer. Some areas well in excess of 10mm, some only a few mm. I would also vote for using a spiked roller for shallower areas We also found it useful to put screws into the floor on a regular grid so that the tops of the screws were level and at the finished level required. This gave us something to gauge the the levelling compound as we pushed it around gently with a float. As @Iceverge mentioned, it doesn't level over a large area but smooths itself in small area - so a little persuasion is needed to push it to the required level.

we used something similar in our upstairs, under engineered wood floor. It works fine, bearing in mind it does not behave thermally the same way as underfloor heating embedded in screed downstairs. It heats up much quicker but also cools down more quickly as there is no thermal store. However, since we only have the one room upstairs and it is open to the ground floor we have rarely had to use the upstairs heating. The only time we did was back in 2011 (I think) when we had a few days of -20 outside temperature and we needed the extra heat in the house. The air source heat pump continued to work well even down at those temperatures. And the upstairs UFH did its job.

underfloor heating? then no worries about blocking wall area for furniture etc

For future reference if it helps others... Having contacted tech support at vent axia, the wired remote does not have a backlight. There is a contrast adjustment - a small variable resistor near the connector - see attached Tweaking that with a small screwdriver adjusts the lcd contrast and it is now readable.

we have just installed and connected up a wired remote for the vent-axia sentinal BH MVHR. Does anyone else here have one of these? Should it have a backlight on the display? Our remote is working but the display is really faint, there is no backlight and I have to use torch to read it! Wonder if it is a fault? Thans