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Great_scot_selfbuild

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  • About Me
    Self-building our forever home on a heavily wooded garden plot that's been in the family for 30+yrs
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    Surrey

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  1. No, but choosing which battles to fight is a skill. Everything about self-build is a marathon rather than a sprint I'm finding. In the scheme of things, this is a small issue tbh. There are plenty of other aspects that wind me up far more!
  2. @Spinny good luck - you deserve some after dealing with all that 💪
  3. Hmmm... I'm looking to re-use the wood rather than the nails though 🤣
  4. Easy to say, less easy to implement, especially if I want to maintain a working relationship for the other bit that I can't do myself.
  5. Have considered this, and even did the maths to work out the most efficient spacing, but it's all a compromise somewhere. That will incur cost as well as time (not just the install time, but it means the exact height of the shingle fixing will vary from row to row, so the measuring and checking each time has a greater likelihood of being messed up.
  6. The horizontal battens have been installed for our shingle cladding at the wrong spacing. After much soul-searching, I am seriously looking at removing, de-nailing (if that’s a word), and then re-fitting at the correct spacing. Grateful for any tips.
  7. By coincidence I came across this too, and then found this useful (clear) YouTube channel which explained how the 2.5mm ring came about from a post-war think tank assessment of how large scale housing could be done whilst limiting the amount of copper needed (well I found it interesting…). This video explained the ring vs radial importance:
  8. @lizzieuk1 I’ve had a great service from Pete at CVC systems with a big discount on my brink system (design & supply only). Huge price difference to the response I had from PaulHeatRecovery. https://cvcsystems.co.uk good luck!
  9. probably end up being about 30-40mm. Foundation is a suspended beam & block floor, DPM, 150mm PIR, Vapour membrane, UFH, slip membrane.
  10. @torre The vapour membrane is below the pipes, the slip membrane on top.
  11. We’re covering a small area of UFH (which was too shallow to lay the dry screed) with self levelling compound. In searching about SLC I’ve seen mention of a primer - is this always needed? The SLC will be onto a slip membrane which is over the pipes. This is the stuff I’ve been recommended to use.
  12. Yes - this is what I’ve had proposed, but I’m taking it on myself now that I’ve accelerated up a steep learning curve!
  13. @FarmerN sorry - what do you mean by ‘half run’?
  14. @crispy_wafer thanks - we do like some of the more doable DIY and are in need of controlling the budget, so doing this is very much worth our time! I also think I am more focussed on tidy routing of services…
  15. This feels a bit high - what’s the opinion here? Just before receiving this, I’ve been looking at running the pipework from plant room to the end points, then this came in (I’m now definitely considering running the pipework myself). Approximate scope: First fix plumbing pipework install. Only installing a mains connection point in the plant room (leaving the UFH / DHW / ASHP to others). 260sqm, 4 bed house with kitchen sink, dishwasher, freezer with water/ice dispenser, downstairs WC, washing machine, family bathroom & 2 en-suite. Doesn’t include bathroom installation (just pipes to the correct positions in the wall). Labour cost £2,750.00 for all pipe installation (not bathroom install) Materials cost £1,780.00 For all materials as above based on 28mm copper main to plank room plus fittings and stop cocks plus 22mm hep2o pipe and fittings for the hot and cold runs with 15mm hep 20 and 15mm copper spurs. Also, isolation valves to toilets, sinks, bath and showers. Thoughts? Experience elsewhere?
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