KineticBuser

Ok amazing thanks - ill balance it out then to whats sensible.. Is there any benefit of the system being at 1.5bar rather than 1bar apart from the operating restrictions of Heat Exchanger etc?

Thanks thats what i thought, so financially im better off having the water as hot as possible under the floor as ive already paid for the cost of heating it

Ok turned out that i wasnt going mad and i had a temperamental valve thats now been replaced, therefore trying to get the thing setup efficiently if anyone knows the answers to the following? With district heat do i pay for the water amount? Or the cost of heating the water? If its just the water amount then i guess i want the water as hot as possible? I have the current water temp set to 50c into the manifold (combo of engineered wood and carpet) presumably i should increase this until my floor temp is 27c? Should the pipe thermostat be on the flow or return on the manifold? Also i seems to be tripping out at 40c which doesnt make sense as the water going is 50c Is there any advantage to having the pressure set to 1.5bar rather than 1bar (which is what the other flats seem to be at) even though EON say it should be 1.5 Thanks

Yes the thermo activator is opened (black bit in middle is raised when requested)

Thanks so not venting using the pump but the actual heat exchanger part? All the valves are open so guess it must be an air issue

Its now showing 0.027 m over h and 0.280 k W What should these values read when its operating? Then dropped to 0.000 Lost

Yeah the flow meters are showing at 2 - have turned off all but 1 room to isolate, i can hear the pump going as well

All showing at 2m /l as thermostats on in all rooms and actuators are open

34591 k Wh 0.008 m over h 0.059 k W 48 over an l - 42 over celcius dt 6.3 celcius

Yes have all the settings and put the flow meters back to original - the flow meters are showing flow however the pipes are all cold Will check all the Sonometer settings and report back

Thanks @John Carroll I thought you had as well (weird) and your advice and reading manuals i understand the flow control and pumps however whilst i was working that out i seem to have gone backwards, when trying to work out how it all worked i took off ATP Pipe Thermostat off the Manifold not realising what it did. The ATP Pipe Thermostat is back on the flow meter Manifold and set to 60c Not sure if thats caused the issue but the Heat Exchanger for the UFH is stone cold, Whilst the Heat Exchanger for the water is hot and working The pipe out of the UFH Heat Exchanger into the Manifold is also cold and reading 15c The pipe that feeds into the Differential Pressure Controller is hot (and then its difficult to tell due to thicker pipes but by time its gone through the RAVK Controller and the Thermo Activator its cold The Thermo Activator i think is ok, it says its naturally closed, and when i shut down power the black middle bit of plastic goes down, and when i power back up and the polypipe controller kicks in it gradually protrudes out Picture below, but i cant work out what to do next This is the system https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/353645/AQ082486478026en-010501.pdf Thanks again

I presume it is the mixing valve as per 6.2.1 IHPT 90 controller (45–65 °) and therefore i have set to the fully - position and then turned towards + 5 times to get to 48c which i presume is what i should of done

This is the system https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/353645/AQ082486478026en-010501.pdf

Set it back to 1 on grunfos temp as seemed to have gone backwards as getting no heat through, the actuators are warm, but the supply and flow pipes are stone cold and the Pipe thermostat into the Manifold is reading at about 18c Do you know what the + - valve on the right of the pump is likely to be and controlling is the the mixer or the release valve maybe?.. I have tried turning it fully to + and i can either hear water or air, however turning it back a few turns and the sound disapears

The Grunfos thing - Yeah it doesnt display anything just a load of settings that ive just changed from PP1 to CP1

Any idea how to increase the water temperature? Nothing i touched seemed to alter that thermostat temp, apart from it running, then as the rooms have warmed the thermostat has increased up - Have Engineered woods floors and some carpets The 1 L/M was because im using a heat pump, seemed to be the listed value in a few places Thoughts on fitting Auto Balancing Actuators so i dont need to bother with the flow meter settings? Worthwhile upgrade?

Trying to understand what is happening with my UFH and also if my logic is correct. 3 bed flat, Lounge and 2 bedroom upstairs 700 Sqft - 1 bedroom downstairs 300 sqft (guess) UFH was working, but one room was always cold, over the summer had some pipes moved and then heating didnt work Centralised Hot Water system The heat pump is all controlled by Eon (but taken cover off) The pump is grundfos alpha2 l 15-40 The UFH is polypipe What i did Refilled system Depressure Manifold Took off Flow Meter and made sure working For each circuit (4) put the flow meter to 1 L/M as when higher the room didnt get hotter State I now have the flat warm finally but its taken days, and i was getting 0.1 degree increase an hour in the rooms (but this may have been from zero as no water in system before i started) The water coming in from the flat is very hot on the pipe, the water into the manifold was 24c but seems to increase as the rooms get hotter (but floors dont feel warm) The Grunfos system when you turn on defaults to 1 but manual says it should be on setting 3 for UFH at which point the flow meters jump, however in the 10yrs in the flat ive never changed it Questions Have i got an airlock, the water isnt hot enough under the floor or a flow rate issue? Is the Grundfos on the right setting? If i changed this then im guessing more flow = most cost and if the water isnt hot enough for the flow im just pushing cold water through? Everything ive read says that UFH should be set to 1 L/M i presume this is per circuit?, i dont really see how i can accurately adjust this between 0 and 1 on a float to balance the system. What is the black RAVK valve doing? There is a adjuster to right of the Grundos that seems to do nothing There is a valve near the Thermostat that has the temp of the water going into the thermostat - not sure what that does either. Also is it possible the system was just so cold its taken this long to get heat through it all? Obviously want the house to be warm but would like to not bankrupt myself in the process Thanks for the advice

Trying to understand what is happening with my UFH and also if my logic is correct. 3 bed flat, Lounge and 2 bedroom upstairs 700 Sqft - 1 bedroom downstairs 300 sqft (guess) UFH was working, but one room was always cold, over the summer had some pipes moved and then heating didnt work Centralised Hot Water system The heat pump is all controlled by Eon (but taken cover off) The pump is grundfos alpha2 l 15-40 The UFH is polypipe What i did Refilled system Depressure Manifold Took off Flow Meter and made sure working For each circuit (4) put the flow meter to 1 L/M as when higher the room didnt get hotter State I now have the flat warm finally but its taken days, and i was getting 0.1 degree increase an hour in the rooms (but this may have been from zero as no water in system before i started) The water coming in from the flat is very hot on the pipe, the water into the manifold was 24c but seems to increase as the rooms get hotter (but floors dont feel warm) The Grunfos system when you turn on defaults to 1 but manual says it should be on setting 3 for UFH at which point the flow meters jump, however in the 10yrs in the flat ive never changed it Questions Have i got an airlock, the water isnt hot enough under the floor or a flow rate issue? Is the Grundfos on the right setting? If i changed this then im guessing more flow = most cost and if the water isnt hot enough for the flow im just pushing cold water through? Everything ive read says that UFH should be set to 1 L/M i presume this is per circuit?, i dont really see how i can accurately adjust this between 0 and 1 on a float to balance the system. What is the black RAVK valve doing? There is a adjuster to right of the Grundos that seems to do nothing There is a valve near the Thermostat that has the temp of the water going into the thermostat - not sure what that does either. Also is it possible the system was just so cold its taken this long to get heat through it all? Obviously want the house to be warm but would like to not bankrupt myself in the process Thanks for the advice

Is is possible to wire a lightswitch in as a momentary switch?

Confused on the above - You wired that into the Vent AXIA? Doe anyone know if i can fit Humidity Sensor PCB (441838) to the B model? Would that fix my issue?

Can you add a humidity sensor to the B model as that would solve the issue and ill just rely on that If its just a module that is

Not sure there is a Humidity Sensor on the Sentinal B is there? Isnt that a + model thing, unless ive missed it on the Panel?

Have a Vent Axia Kinetic Sentinel Plus B installed When you turn the bathroom light on it turns on the boost, then when you turn the light off the boost goes off. Tried to replace the light switches with simple smart switches, now what happens is the Boost comes on with the light, but remains on even after the light is turned off. I am presuming this has something to do with the fact the light switch only has terminals for live and its using the neutral to detect the light off? All the neutrals are tied together external to switch. On the Vent Axia end i have Live and Neutrals into SW1 and SW2 which i presume goes directly to both bathrooms. Is there any way of changing the wiring on Vent Axia end, ive seen that you can change the wiring to a momentary switch, could i wire the light in like this and then set the Vent Axia to run for 30mins each time light is turned on?