KineticBuser

@Stones Did you manage to replace your actuator and find the part cheaper than from Vent Axia?

Ok kinda makes sense, AirCon exhaust is too powerful for the ducting and therefore the air will be forced backwards into the unit - Thanks for explanation

Sorry that didnt make sense - I meant fit a New Aircon Unit and attach its exhaust pipe to the existing MVHR ducting (but into the exhaust outlet pipework so its doesnt impact existing MVHR)

Can understand that piping the Air Con into the MVHR ceiling ducts is a bad idea, however never been able to understand why you cant intecept the MVHR exhaust pipe and connect into there somehow? Surely at that point its post the MVHR system and therefore you are just using the ducting to vent to the outside?

Think my Summer Bypass Actuator has packed up (about 99% sure) on a Sentinel Kinetic B Part number on the actuator is a Eltek 100331.24K which i cant seem to source apart from Vent Axia themselves who want £50 Does anybody know if any other part number is compatible? possibly 100331.27K Thanks

Ah ok, maybe i need to leave it plugged in for 10 and see if the vents open / close then? Can you confirm the summer bypass and vent operation? The vents are on the right, so if thats the incoming air, would make sense for them to be closed and force the air past the heat exchanger

Sorry i mean the Central Grate being open means Summer Bypass Mode is not On? If thats the case and mine is set to open with Summer Bypass On, then the solenoid is the most likely culprit? I presume thats the case so i have removed the solenoid and closed the grate manually - which i presume is ok and forces Summer Bypass on constantly? Has anyone found a solenoid replacement cheaper than from Vent Axia?

So would this be Summer Bypass Mode on or Off? Mine is currently set like this with the Summer Bypass Mode on By togging the mode to On or Off should i immediately be able to see the solenoid change?

Ok amazing thanks - ill balance it out then to whats sensible.. Is there any benefit of the system being at 1.5bar rather than 1bar apart from the operating restrictions of Heat Exchanger etc?

Thanks thats what i thought, so financially im better off having the water as hot as possible under the floor as ive already paid for the cost of heating it

Ok turned out that i wasnt going mad and i had a temperamental valve thats now been replaced, therefore trying to get the thing setup efficiently if anyone knows the answers to the following? With district heat do i pay for the water amount? Or the cost of heating the water? If its just the water amount then i guess i want the water as hot as possible? I have the current water temp set to 50c into the manifold (combo of engineered wood and carpet) presumably i should increase this until my floor temp is 27c? Should the pipe thermostat be on the flow or return on the manifold? Also i seems to be tripping out at 40c which doesnt make sense as the water going is 50c Is there any advantage to having the pressure set to 1.5bar rather than 1bar (which is what the other flats seem to be at) even though EON say it should be 1.5 Thanks

Yes the thermo activator is opened (black bit in middle is raised when requested)

Thanks so not venting using the pump but the actual heat exchanger part? All the valves are open so guess it must be an air issue

Its now showing 0.027 m over h and 0.280 k W What should these values read when its operating? Then dropped to 0.000 Lost

Yeah the flow meters are showing at 2 - have turned off all but 1 room to isolate, i can hear the pump going as well

All showing at 2m /l as thermostats on in all rooms and actuators are open

34591 k Wh 0.008 m over h 0.059 k W 48 over an l - 42 over celcius dt 6.3 celcius

Yes have all the settings and put the flow meters back to original - the flow meters are showing flow however the pipes are all cold Will check all the Sonometer settings and report back

Thanks @John Carroll I thought you had as well (weird) and your advice and reading manuals i understand the flow control and pumps however whilst i was working that out i seem to have gone backwards, when trying to work out how it all worked i took off ATP Pipe Thermostat off the Manifold not realising what it did. The ATP Pipe Thermostat is back on the flow meter Manifold and set to 60c Not sure if thats caused the issue but the Heat Exchanger for the UFH is stone cold, Whilst the Heat Exchanger for the water is hot and working The pipe out of the UFH Heat Exchanger into the Manifold is also cold and reading 15c The pipe that feeds into the Differential Pressure Controller is hot (and then its difficult to tell due to thicker pipes but by time its gone through the RAVK Controller and the Thermo Activator its cold The Thermo Activator i think is ok, it says its naturally closed, and when i shut down power the black middle bit of plastic goes down, and when i power back up and the polypipe controller kicks in it gradually protrudes out Picture below, but i cant work out what to do next This is the system https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/353645/AQ082486478026en-010501.pdf Thanks again

I presume it is the mixing valve as per 6.2.1 IHPT 90 controller (45–65 °) and therefore i have set to the fully - position and then turned towards + 5 times to get to 48c which i presume is what i should of done

This is the system https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/353645/AQ082486478026en-010501.pdf

Set it back to 1 on grunfos temp as seemed to have gone backwards as getting no heat through, the actuators are warm, but the supply and flow pipes are stone cold and the Pipe thermostat into the Manifold is reading at about 18c Do you know what the + - valve on the right of the pump is likely to be and controlling is the the mixer or the release valve maybe?.. I have tried turning it fully to + and i can either hear water or air, however turning it back a few turns and the sound disapears

The Grunfos thing - Yeah it doesnt display anything just a load of settings that ive just changed from PP1 to CP1

Any idea how to increase the water temperature? Nothing i touched seemed to alter that thermostat temp, apart from it running, then as the rooms have warmed the thermostat has increased up - Have Engineered woods floors and some carpets The 1 L/M was because im using a heat pump, seemed to be the listed value in a few places Thoughts on fitting Auto Balancing Actuators so i dont need to bother with the flow meter settings? Worthwhile upgrade?