Ok kinda makes sense, AirCon exhaust is too powerful for the ducting and therefore the air will be forced backwards into the unit - Thanks for explanation
Sorry that didnt make sense - I meant fit a New Aircon Unit and attach its exhaust pipe to the existing MVHR ducting (but into the exhaust outlet pipework so its doesnt impact existing MVHR)
Can understand that piping the Air Con into the MVHR ceiling ducts is a bad idea, however never been able to understand why you cant intecept the MVHR exhaust pipe and connect into there somehow?
Surely at that point its post the MVHR system and therefore you are just using the ducting to vent to the outside?
Think my Summer Bypass Actuator has packed up (about 99% sure) on a Sentinel Kinetic B
Part number on the actuator is a Eltek 100331.24K which i cant seem to source apart from Vent Axia themselves who want £50
Does anybody know if any other part number is compatible? possibly 100331.27K
Thanks
Ah ok, maybe i need to leave it plugged in for 10 and see if the vents open / close then? Can you confirm the summer bypass and vent operation?
The vents are on the right, so if thats the incoming air, would make sense for them to be closed and force the air past the heat exchanger
Sorry i mean the Central Grate being open means Summer Bypass Mode is not On? If thats the case and mine is set to open with Summer Bypass On, then the solenoid is the most likely culprit?
I presume thats the case so i have removed the solenoid and closed the grate manually - which i presume is ok and forces Summer Bypass on constantly?
Has anyone found a solenoid replacement cheaper than from Vent Axia?
So would this be Summer Bypass Mode on or Off? Mine is currently set like this with the Summer Bypass Mode on
By togging the mode to On or Off should i immediately be able to see the solenoid change?
Ok amazing thanks - ill balance it out then to whats sensible..
Is there any benefit of the system being at 1.5bar rather than 1bar apart from the operating restrictions of Heat Exchanger etc?
Thanks thats what i thought, so financially im better off having the water as hot as possible under the floor as ive already paid for the cost of heating it
Ok turned out that i wasnt going mad and i had a temperamental valve thats now been replaced, therefore trying to get the thing setup efficiently if anyone knows the answers to the following?
With district heat do i pay for the water amount? Or the cost of heating the water? If its just the water amount then i guess i want the water as hot as possible?
I have the current water temp set to 50c into the manifold (combo of engineered wood and carpet) presumably i should increase this until my floor temp is 27c?
Should the pipe thermostat be on the flow or return on the manifold? Also i seems to be tripping out at 40c which doesnt make sense as the water going is 50c
Is there any advantage to having the pressure set to 1.5bar rather than 1bar (which is what the other flats seem to be at) even though EON say it should be 1.5
Thanks