Gary Martin

Ideally they want it with all penetration from service pipes etc, sealed. Floor screeded ready for plasterboard but not yet installed. all horizontal surfaces that are to be retained are masked off first. In my case, only slate windowsills. yes there is a sticky residue on these surfaces. I read on here that the floor was like a dodgy Weatherspoons.

What about creocoat ? I made a trough out of timber battens, lined it with polythene and dipped it all. It covered all sides and ends at once and was quicker than brushing or spraying. i stood the treated boards in a bucket to catch the run off for reuse.

Mr P the internal walls are block, or brick downstairs. There is 50 mm of pir insulation between the internal and external walls ends. starter ties were bolted to the walls, through the insulation to avoid cold bridges. the original plan was stud wall but we preferred this option. all this was completed before AB arrived.

IW insulation with air proof membrane and attention to detail got my initial reading down to 1.7 Aero barrier guys. We’re impressed with the workmanship. the magic mist got it down to 0.2 acp cost £2,200 no VAT as self build

Aero barrier have been and gone. initial air changes per hours was 1.7 builders did an excellent job and AB guys were impressed. after their magic mist was finished, they got it down to 0.2.

From start date to result, but from file to start date was only a couple of weeks, from memory. the appeal was to install dormer windows and a front porch on a new build, in construction. The inspector summed it up by saying “ the building cannot be viewed from any position, except by the immediate gateway, and therefore will not have an impact on the area.

Update again my appeal was granted. YAY ! 7 months start to finish

I put in a planning app for a dormer bungalow with a roof pitch of 40* and a low eaves height, and dormers front and rear. This was refused, so I appealed. simultaneously to the appeal, I put in another app for a higher eaves height( +300ml ) and a lower roof pitch of 30*. And roof lights, not dormers, at the rear only.This was granted. I started the build, as approved and have now finished the high eaves, lower pitched roof, entirely. For logistical reasons I couldn’t hold off on the roof construction any longer. Internal works etc are still ongoing. my appeal was granted in full, after 7 months of uncertainty. it would be very expensive and time consuming to rip off the existing roof and replace it. SO , should I now install the, much wanted dormers, and hope the shallower pitch, etc is not noticed, or cared about. Or put in a new application using the best of both approved apps, OR put in a material/ non material alteration request. ? the appeals inspector said words to the effect of “ the building can’t be seen from anywhere, so the roof height/ pitch is not a material consideration “ However he did put in the usual conditions “ built in accordance with the plans submitted “ so what would you do? any advice would be appreciated. gary

I put in a planning app for a dormer bungalow with a roof pitch of 40* and a low eaves height, and dormers front and rear. This was refused, so I appealed. simultaneously to the appeal, I put in another app for a higher eaves height( +300ml ) and a lower roof pitch of 30*. And roof lights, not dormers, at the rear only.This was granted. I started the build, as approved and have now finished the high eaves, lower pitched roof, entirely. For logistical reasons I couldn’t hold off on the roof construction any longer. Internal works etc are still ongoing. my appeal was granted in full, after 7 months of uncertainty. it would be very expensive and time consuming to rip off the existing roof and replace it. SO , should I now install the, much wanted dormers, and hope the shallower pitch, etc is not noticed, or cared about. Or put in a new application using the best of both approved apps, OR put in a material/ non material alteration request. ? the appeals inspector said words to the effect of “ the building can’t be seen from anywhere, so the roof height/ pitch is not a material consideration “ However he did put in the usual conditions “ built in accordance with the plans submitted “ so what would you do? any advice would be appreciated. gary

Update folks! my site visit is booked for 21 October. this is simple case, no national parks, listed buildings, conservation area etc. most of my appealed stuff would have been allowed under permitted development rights anyway.

Anyone have any idea how long a domestic planning appeal actually takes? mine started in April, I’ve had final comments from the council and submitted my reply and final comments. Not heard a peep since.

Hi Guys an update for you. The walls are up, 2x dense blocks with 50 mm uninsulated cavity. 100 mm kingspan and air barrier fixed to walls with 150 mm concrete screws at 400 centers. building regs and warranty company are totally happy. the walls and insulation feel solid and warm. All joints were taped before air barrier etc was installed. the battens will give a good fixing for plasterboard and any shelves etc. required. i have placed an order with AeroBarrier, but my builder thinks his attention to detail will give a pretty airtight finish anyway AB was £2 k

I’ve had all that rubbish in the past. as others have said” Sell up, invest into the stock market/ deposit accounts/ gold. Life is too short, the aggravation too much, and the profits too small. I did and never looked back

Anyone done recent research on costings for Kingspan/ Celotex etc ? I am soon to order a shed load 75mm 100 mm and 150 mm ive looked at Seconds& Co but am worried about discrepancies in thickness. best I’ve found so far is £23.50. £29.00 . £40.50 for these sizes. All 1.2x2.4 foiled from Insulation4Less.co.uk + VAT of course. Free delivery. also anyone got these sizes leftover.? I can collect. happy building everybody. Gary

Hi I am just starting my build, footings done, and would love to see your project. any day in June is fine with me, although I think a weekend suits more people. regards gary

Thanks Rick. Russell your comments have certainly given me a pause for thought.

Not sure if porotherm clay blocks would class as non standard construction or not. easy saleable construction is important to me.

Iceverge thanks for your answers. yes I meant a cavity wall made with concrete blocks, (I said I was new to all this). I take on board your advice re the battens etc. what do you think of initially only minimal fixings for the horizontal battens, then concrete screws in pre drilled holes, going through both vertical and horizontal battens to hold the whole thing together ? any internal walls will be timber studs so no cold bridging at junctions. for Johnmo, of course I am not aiming or planning or hoping for a bad build, by design or construction and would like perfection. I doubt the other timber framed owners wanted the problems they got either.

The whole thing was badly designed and built. The exposed glulam ridge beam was rotten on the ends too, In a coastal environment . my point is even a badly built block building can’t rot. Hence my preference for block over timber frame.

Jilly I meant arbitrary as in inside the cavity or outside it, in the room.

Thanks Iceverge my proposal was two skins of normal dense concrete blocks, not soft cavity blocks. the battens and counter battens would be 25 x50 not 38 x50 the vertical battens would have to be drilled and plugged the horizontal ones screwed to the others with 50 mm wood screws. ( vertical cladding) I agree extra work is required fixing the internal insulation boards, longer screws etc, but time would be saved on not messing around cutting the boards to fit in the cavity, around wall ties etc. Also no chasing out for cables and pipes, plus making good, as with a wet plaster finish. I still want to go cavity block built, not ICF or timber frame. my builder has just sent me pics of a 15 year old TF building that had a failed rainwater downpipe that had been leaking and splashing up under the cladding ,unseen for quite a while. The rot had gone from the sole plate to two verticals . He was brought in for minor alterations and it has progressed to a major refurb. not his original build by the way.

Thanks for your comments guys. timber or cement board or Plastic timber effect cladding was stipulated by planning to give an “ agricultural feel” to the build. It is replacing a Part Q permitted development. “ cladding boards “ was the term used. I know planning dept shouldn’t dictate like that but it’s where we are. please no further comment on cladding. Im now 100% fixed on cavity block construction, but not really convinced why internal insulation is not better. Any internal walls will be stud, so no cold bridging. Wall thickness won’t be any different to conventional as the cavity will be reduced by the same amount 100mm? As the internal walls will be increased. I realise that “ I pays my money, and I makes my choice, and have to live with it” but am genuinely hoping to learn from your collective wisdom. is it “ That’s just the way it is. Some things will never change” ( Credit Bruce Hornsby ) or are there more concrete reasons ?

150 sq mt dormer bungalow. was looking at timber frame as faster warm up and air tight. Heard of some with rot in base after a few years. ( I know it shouldn’t but it did ) I then considered cavity block for longevity but a slower warm up and difficult to get air tight. as insulation is essentially “inside” with TF, but “outside, in the cavity” with block, I thought it made sense to get the best of both methods. my plan, from outside in = timber cladding, batten& counter batten ( gives 50 mm air gap ) breather membrane, block, 50 mm cavity,block, 100 mm celotex, air Barr membrane, battens fixed through to blocks, plasterboard and skim. I looked at SIPS and ICFs but the “ none standard construction “ label makes mortgage or resale more difficult. I assumed the cavity block bit would be classed as standard construction and the siting of the insulation arbitrary. ??????

Up date on my supply. western power put a new pole on my land, and ran a cable to it from the neighbours pole. 70 meters WP sorted out the wayleave. they supplied ducting and a meter box. I had to dig a trench, place the ducting, plus drawstring, and fix meter box for temporary supply. They then ran cable from the new pole, underground for 20 meters and connected to the new box. £ 7,000

Thanks G&J. Could you expand please? I’m new to self building and keen to learn. thanks