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Maybe I got right ?

Hi @Nickfromwales sorry for being thick hehe Yes, there is a break in the run on top, just not visible. the red line I draw is the 8x3, so it runs on the top of the beam like the sketch yes? then the joists would be attached to this 8x3 with brackets I assume? A pic would help if thats not a lot of work ?

So @Nickfromwales my drawing above is exactly what you suggested with the 8x3?

maybe Im misunderstanding.... so the flitch/beam would not be flush to the wall, but the 8x3 joist above?

Sounds interesting, just trying to understand the joist ends that meet the left/righ walls would need to be raised too (another 8x3 running along the wall line)?

I did think about that....but if the beam is in-built into blockwork and flush, plasterboard would be attached to the joists (to create a service void, say for in-ceiling lights) so it would be covered up ? EDIT: what the hell am I talking about it!, please ignore @Nickfromwales

So right now this is the idea for the flat roof joists (joists 47mm x 220mm max span 4.91m) + steel/flitch beam, 400mm spacing, looks good?

Yea, looking at the costs, SIPs are coming up too costly, I rather have fun doing the sandwiched warm roof myself. Someone emailed me now regarding engineered i-joists, waiting for the quotation on that, if I use them this would eliminate the need for the steel beam too I really need that "open plan" for the bigger room, since I plan to set up a drum set, guitar, etc....

Hi @PeterW yea, completely agree. I have just made some quick numbers: To cover the roof area + overhangs I would need about 20 panels 1200mm wide by 3000mm @ £125 each, splines are a tenner each, so looking at about £2700 or so, was just thinking if it would make it easier with the beam, I would probably need 2 now hehe Any idea how much a steel/flitch beam would cost?

Good morning folks! @PeterW and @Nickfromwales not a fan of pillars ? flitch beam eh? one learns something new everyday! Never heard of this until you wrote and took a quick look on the web. Is it a beam that is made of “sandwiched” steel and timber as the outer face? Is this to eliminate the cold bridge issue? (this is from a company not too far from me) I went to bed yesterday and could not even watch a proper movie without thinking about this and reading up. Also, I came up with an alternative option for the warm flat roof: to sit 100mm thick or thicker SIPs panels on the top of walls / beam instead of going with the composition of the flat roof being: Joists osb decking (18mm) insulation 100mm os decking (11mm) EDPM finish

I suppose the steel beam can be designed in a way that it can be attached to the blockwork by some type of screws? so it is flush with the blockwork and the timber joists sit properly on top. I would prefer only internal insulation, less work to do as brickie would only have to render the blockwork

Something I asked above, Steel spline sitting or inbuilt into blockwork?

Note taken ✏️ By the way, the steel beam, would it be something off-the-shelf or need calcs for this if I would be using standard timber joists?

Oops, I got the wrong one I guess....will correct Okie..I thought there were thermal advantages to it, so just snake oil? confused heheheheh

@Declan52 and everyone, quick price up (with VAT) from Builder Depot (perhaps I can find some other BM that is cheaper?) Assuming total wall area of 75m2 (28m perimeter @ 2.7m high) Have not included sundries (joint, adhesive, etc) Feedback on the choices are welcome

Thanks for the tips, will work on numbers and post here. Plan is sand cement render (my brickie mate did it last year for the entrance walls and they look fabulous) painted in white

Yes, exactly....I think 1m deep is an incredible exaggeration from them!

These thermalite blocks? https://www.mkmbs.co.uk/prodb016226-440mm-x-215mm-x-215mm-toplite-aircrete-block/

Like this @PeterW @Nickfromwales ? Steel spline sitting or inbuilt into blockwork? Long timber joist or 2x shorter ones? (need overhangs of 150mm sides and rear, 500mm front)

I see, well, delivery charges down to chichester would not be that much? standard timber to cover the 6m length would be too heavy as well!

Also @PeterW where do you get off the shelf JJI-Joists to cover that 6m span + overhangs? I was quoted £1,539 (ex vat) from FForest TImber (21 joists ) and Minera quoted me £1,421 (ex vat) (15 joists) but these are either in-built or need hangers, dont take into account the overhangs required

If I go with cavity 100mm + 100mm fibre for insulation, wouldnt B.C require calcs for the foundations? what If I use Thermlite 150mm X 440mm X 215mm aircrete blocks, single skin fine? Would need to take into account what type of insulation to go here ☝️

Yea, timber seems more challenging to be honest with so many ways to clad, I would be nuts to accept the challenge... And I am counting on my bickie mate's knowledge (he has over 20 yr experiencing building in Portugal, where most builds are concrete (even roofs!). Carrying blocks and working with the concrete mixer should be doable tasks for myself and brother in law So on a cavity build, no need to piers or columns on that long 8m wall? I still have to get S.E to do calcs for B.C....

HI @Nickfromwales thanks so much for your reply. just for quotation purposes, I have quoted upvc windows, they would come up at around £190 each supply only, external anthracite color and white internally, is that a good price new? Regarding the door, on my build they stained one of the doors and I had it replaced for free a couple of weeks ago, I now have this beautiful aluminuml door sitting inside a OSB box that I will re-use for this build. Only thing is, the frame (SCHÜCO) is 450EUR! I could move slightly from boundary, I think 1.20m would avoid fireproofing? This would only be if I choose timber frame instead and finding it difficult to do with my skill set! The actual approved garage plan was to have a room in the roof, but I think it would be costly as I would have to add stairs, etc, and this would be over my budget surely!

Ignore by "newbieness" but what if laying the blocks the other way (so thickness is 225mm) with thicker insulation inside only? I guess this would bring dampness issues?