lizzieuk1

On a slightly different note, any opinions on which is more impactful, u-value or air tightness?? Looking at windows, likely options are upvc 2g mock sash or (possibly) 3g or traditional sliding sash - though struggling to find any with 3g as an option! Thinking mock will have far better AT than trad sliding.

Hi all, So currently scaring ourselves with the new build budget and trying to find a good solution for windows. We have a georgian type build design, so sash windows looking to feature. However, aware of the poor air tightness and, it seems, lack of 3g availability for a sash. Wondering if anyone has any good solutions, not averse to a good mock sash in wood effect upvc, but are there any 3g versions? Ideally not timber as, going forward and getting older, maintenance has to be a consideration.

Ah that's good, we're in Lincs

Crikey that sounds pretty good Nick, so we could build to 1st fix and then get them in without needing to do any parge coating at all?

Think the blown cellulose is our preference, we don't have shallow pitch and will have blue slates & solar but still like the cellulose option. Only issue may be if we can find a supplier so we can diy it, though not sure how much cost saving to be had compared to supply & install option.

Amazing, thankyou 😊

It is used quite widely in other countries though so, there must be positives that drive the usage.

In preference to posi joists? Then underlined with insulation for cold bridging?

😊 thanks

Wowser, thanks Nick for such a thorough run through of all that! As you say it is worth asking the question re cost and a conversation around woodcrete to see if that approach is a cost effective/practical option or if parging first would be better. (Obv they will want to sell as much product as they can so I guess critically appraising their answer is in order) The one issue I could see for us, is that we have been looking at a posi joist roof structure & blown cellulose which, sounds like it may not be suitable for that system. The cutting & fitting of pir between rafters (and now a need to tape all sides) is so painful, not to mention the cost, so we're looking for a better way!

It sure is! Thankyou buildhubbers, you are all a vast knowledge base and I really appreciate your time with my questions!

Looks like a clever system Nick, any ideas on cost?

Well done JohnMo, looks like you've set the bar high!

For a stonemason the tolerance is 3mm so, I'm sure hubby will be all over that, it may take longer but he won't let it slide!

Thanks JohnMo, that makes me feel far better! This is what we're hoping to achieve so really glad you have successfully done the same.

Gosh I'd hope not, they're 1/4 mile away 🤣

I'm wondering if we just fix a slip board without insulation whether we could then level them out as we installed. Not sure if moisture behind those would create an issue 🤔 if there are drain holes or something at the bottom. If not maybe we make sure we seal all round them.

Could be an option, not what we'd originally intended as obv adds another separate layer to the wall construction. We were also hoping to install the slips ourselves but not sure we'd be up for building a whole brick skin.

All of them!

Thanks sbms, Did you manage to solve the issue of cellulose install providers?

That's exactly what we are hoping to do with our roof so really useful. Could I ask: Is there a max span for the 304mm rafter? How does the cost compare to say, an attic truss or cut roof with pir?

🤣 that made me chuckle! OH is pretty good with the old power tools, should be a fun experiment! I guess the only positive could be to even out the surface for brick slips 🤔 though we may put an external insulated slip board on, in which case, as you say, likely pointless

Yes indeed, but, our old house wasn't the new build we did with the lightweight blocks (that was a 2 house 'project' which was sold on). The old house was a 1980s build so solid block rather than lightweight, still a nightmare to fix to with the big void to span. Realising that we may the same issue! But, hoping there may be a way around it, dot n dab could work but obv still issue with services. I think we need to get some blocks and 'have a go' at surface chasing 😬

Indeed, lesson learnt! You don't know what you don't know eh! Woodcrete really because, amongst other things, we don't want lots of eps on the internal walls. This is our forever home and, we feel, trying to fix anything to the walls going forward will be a right pain. Our old house had battened out plasterboard walls and was near impossible to drill through to get anything like solid fixings in. Yes, we can fix ply for kitchens etc, that's fine on day 1 but on say day 500, we may want to fix other things and will have no ply in place and no idea where the ties are to fix to! We also like it has no need for props and, iyswim, the blocks feel like blocks.

Thanks Nick, all interesting pointers. Looks like we need to parge inside and dot n dab which is fine. Hubby thinks he may just parge externally as well as we build up, we'll see how that pans out! Used dot n dab on last build and quite understand the difference with speed of drying & cracking to wet plaster - def something I'm mindful of! I'm not sure of Ecobrix have improved the uniformity of the blocks since they took over, will get a good look/question that when we pop over to the supplier.