Bancroft

Some really useful information here, thank you. I did start to look at Loopcad but my brain just said no; I may need to go back and review because this seems like one of those things that the phrase 'If you want something doing properly, do it yourself' applies. I like the principle of paring back the number of loops and also the widening of centres to 300mm to reduce both the number of manifolds and also the amount of pipework. I'm not so worried about response time as I expect the system will essentially be on for winter and off for summer. More work needed from me but thanks for the direction and guidance.

General consensus seems to be to NOT put pipes under walls. Presumably that's in case pipes need maintenance/repair later but as they're in screed it seems a bit of a moot point. Also, if putting into screed (as opposed to slab foundation) most of the walls would most likely be in place by the time it comes around to laying out UFH pipework. I do agree, though, that doorways etc create tight runs which is one of the reasons why I was asking about multiple manifolds in order to spread the load.

Did you come to the 300mm centres through your own calculations or a plumber/UFH engineer? The design we have follows a more common (it appears) 150mm spacing.

Hi all, I'm looking for some feedback on an underfloor heating design. I had someone do a layout for UFH pipework for our single storey, 211sq m, new build and I’m looking for people with more experience than me to look it over to see if it makes sense. They have split the whole system into two manifold areas – manifold 1 one in the lobby to the shared bathroom, and manifold 2 in the pantry. They have then put more individual circuits (10 v 😎 on to manifold 2 which results in the guest bedroom (left hand end of the building) being on a different manifold to the other bedrooms. This also means a lot of pipework squeezing through the door to the pantry and, presumably, additional heating in the pantry area that would ideally be kept cooler. Ideally, we’d be looking at a maximum of two heating zones – the bedroom side of the house and the living side of the house. My thoughts/questions are: Twelve ports looks like the max size for a single manifold so we’re probably going to need two as a minimum. But, are there any advantages/disadvantages to going to three to relieve pipework runs/reduce pipe lengths? Would it not make more sense to put the bigger manifold in the bathroom lobby area, instead of the pantry? That would mean fewer pipes having to go out through the door to the hall as some circuits are within the central bedrooms and bathroom. It might also reduce overheating in the pantry. It would also mean that the A1/A2 circuits to the guest bedroom would then be on the same manifold as the other bedrooms. Finally, is there a height limit at which manifolds can be mounted? We’re going to have a warm loft and I’m just wondering if manifolds could be mounted In the loft – at about 3000mm above finished floor level – and still operate? Grateful for any feedback on the above or any other errors/omissions/improvements can you see from the layout.

Excellent marketing!

I'm still investigating this and haven't yet fitted so take read this with caution. Condensation drains? I think the basic answer is 'yes'. However, if thought about early enough in the planning process it shouldn't be too much of an issue. I'm planning on 4-5 fan coil heads in a single storey building and (on paper) it doesn't seem too torturous to find ways to locate the fan coil where drains will be easy to install. For example, we have two bedrooms with a bathroom in the middle - easy to mount the units on the bathroom/bedroom wall and take the drain through the wall into the bathroom plumbing. Ditto near the kitchen etc. Also, I think some units that can be ceiling mounted can pump condensate uphill to then flow down into the final drain. This means easier installation between floors or routing through loft spaces.

After going around this circle many times over the last year this is how I'm planning on solving the issue.

We have had a nightmare with the Conditions placed on us following approval of our planning application. So much so that I'm putting in a formal complaint about how/why they were imposed in the first place and how they have subsequently been staffed by the planning office. Too late for us now, but for anyone who is in the early stages of planning approval/discharging of Conditions, it might be worth acquainting yourself with the government guidelines on planning conditions starting with https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-of-planning-conditions If going through this process again, the first thing I would do on being confronted with any Conditions from the planning department would be to go to that page and check each one against the six tests and other guidance shown. Armed with that information I would then go back and confront the planners. I have a strong feeling that most would crumble at the thought of being asked to explain their actions. That could save you a lot of time, money and frustration.

I think if we get to that stage, my wife will be putting me in the ground, not a spade!

Somewhat depressingly, Facebook has just sent me one of those "on this day..." memories in the hope that you'll share it again on the platform. It was this day last year that we finally got the letter saying we had been granted planning permission to build our new house. (That was after applying for planning permission the previous December but let's gloss over that...). Since then, the only physical proof we have to show as 'progress' are three lumps of earth in the garden where soil inspections were done. But, there is some good(ish) news: Only one of the thirteen conditions remains to be discharged The new architect is almost ready to submit the Section 73 notice to update/amend some changes made to the design. Hopefully, the planning department won't take another six months to approve those. I think this stage of 'building' your own home is one that is often glossed over but it does help to put into context why planners allow you three years from approval to commence the build... I've found it quite difficult to determine what I should be doing personally during this period, especially now that I'm essentially retired. When we initially got permission to build I went out at full speed and started talking to builders, organising site insurance, writing letters regarding CIL etc etc. But then the reality of discharging Conditions came in, along with a seemingly never-ending series of reports and inspections to be arranged and paid for. I took a pause, throttled back in preparation for the long haul, and put my frustrations to one side. And, although physical progress might have stuttered, I have been able to use places like this forum to increase my overall knowledge of some of the more obscure (but no less important) corners of self-building. I'm grateful to both this site and the individual contributors who have gone before and highlighted their experiences. So, onwards and (hopefully) upwards as we enter the second year of holding planning approval.

Is this a complete new build or are you just looking at re-hashing the internals of an existing building and are limited by the external wall size/shape? Is the garage an absolute necessity or can it be used as part of the re-design? Finally, I presume the garden is at the top of this drawing, next to the conservatory?

I'm certain I saw the ad as it appeared in the magazine month after month. But, I will acknowledge that my TB and GB might have got mixed up over time (memory not what it used to be - if you'll pardon the pun).

Back in the mid-eighties, I saw an advert for a 1Tb hard drive for a computer. I remeber thinking two thoughts: Who on earth would need that amount of data on a hard drive, and Who would pay £6000 for a hard drive?

We will have some windows that can be opened, particularly some big sliders to the terrace/outdoor kitchen but the biggest issue might be getting my wife to change her habits and perceptions after living in a 'normal' house all her life.

If you're planning a modern, well-insulated and ventilated house, the likelihood of wanting/needing to open an upper floor window are pretty slim so, personally, I would see this limitation as being of minor importance. I'm actively trying to make more windows fixed closed to stop my wife from randomly opening them and ruining the MVHR efficiency!