Jump to content

Adam2

Members
  • Posts

    789
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Adam2 last won the day on October 16 2018

Adam2 had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Location
    Dorset

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Adam2's Achievements

Regular Member

Regular Member (4/5)

133

Reputation

  1. That's why I like this forum, always people volunteering to help.
  2. I have a cooling unit that has intake/exhaust passing through an exterior wall (original post mentioned the chiller but not the plumbing for it). So the wine room challenge is preventing the room heat warming it up mainly in the summer as in the winter it should be OK with an external wall and good insulation and no UFH of course. Whilst I could lower my room/house temp the summer this will anyway by >22 degrees (which I like - maybe should move somewhere warmer)
  3. So we'll go with double glazing - as we are planning to keep the cold in vs out. I guess that when specifying this glazing panel I should specify the inside as the outside so any heat retention aspects to the glazing will work more effectively? Another aspect I'm pondering is the best way to make the door reasonably air tight. possibly using the small wings along the long edges and a soft foam strip along the top. BUT, for the bottom of the door could a drop seal work well for this, or is there a better solution seeing as I'm not looking for fire prevention just minimising air movement.
  4. Fridge isn't big enough, it'll look very nice and fill in a hole under the stairs that has been gathering useless objects 🙂
  5. @Roz My experience from the new system was very positive. I had a pro-forma with no VAT number from a tile company (that went bust) for 9K and they accepted this, I did provide a justification and provided their VAT number that I found via the internet. Maybe I was lucky but am pleased I did this. If you are being genuine and have some evidence - inc proof of payment if needed (I was not asked for this) then I would be surprised (based solely on my experience) if that would jepardize the whole submission
  6. We're finally at the stage where we have a trusted chippy to build the under stairs wine room. The area has no UFH and the ceiling and walls were extra insulated. There is a chiller unit installed which should work down to our target temp of 16 degrees - getting lower temps meant a much bigger investment which I'd like to keep for the wine 🙂 Front will be along these lines: The front of this will be glazed with wooden framing (sapele stained to match our stair edging detail (door shown on right but will be the same colour). To minimise the warm air leakage into the wine room I am thinking to have a drop seal on the bottom of the door and use magnets to hold the door closed against a thin rubber strip set into a rebate that the door closes against - using a simple pull handle to open (happy to hear any other suggestions on this also) Our house is fairly toasty as I WFH and like to wear shorts most of the year so internal temp is not often below 22/23. So - pros/cons of 2g vs 3g: Cost is not much different Weight is a big difference and moving the large panel in 3g could be a bit of a challenge (approx 1m x 2.1m) Weight may also make the door frame a bit of a challenge if we are trying to keep thinner framing as shown So I guess my question comes down to is the insulative benefits in this scenario of 3g going to make much difference?
  7. So in the end the simple dowels with washers worked just fine (ignore the laundry 🙂
  8. Sorry for the delay - but yes we did this no problems -
  9. Some pics of my setup
  10. As I have my own company owned EV I can apparently pay for the charge costs from my company which is v nice. Unfortunately I have a a very basic charger so wanted to find the easiest way to measure the usage. Is there something I can use in the consumer unit or should I find an old elec meter and install that in-line? My EV charger runs from a small consumer unit installed in the garage which seems to have some unused capacity.
  11. Lots of questions come to mind - just finished an ICF house that I managed the build of. Cost - is this very important to you? Maybe other options will be cheaper? Insulation - Yes you get this with ICF but not in the floor or the ceiling (usually). if you really want this to be insulated curious why - if there is no heat source the temp will still drop/rise just more slowly so unless you use it for working in and have a heater then a high price for something that does not seem to provide much benefit. Not insulating the floor would be a big omission if insulating the walls and ceiling but would mean more groundworks unless you can just build up from current ground level and have a sloped entrance? Security - if you go with ICF you won't need rebar for security - if someone comes equipped to go through 150mm of concrete the rebar will not be a problem. No idea of the risk level of course but a timber building also has eco-crudentials and I would have thought you could get something up v fast. If you wanted insulation then maybe consider SIPs. Render is fine on ICF - JUB is on mine and seems good but others I'm sure are OK also. Flat roof - someone could easily get on top and in 5 mins cut out a space to jump down and probably open the door of your storage area etc - so your Ferrari will be off to the parts shop I'm not anti ICF just not enough info to know if it seems right for this purpose vs other options. It is appealing in that you can do a fair bit of work yourself but you could get a good carpenter in and go sail your boat 🙂
  12. This is great news and thanks for sharing - today I had the building control sign-off 🙂 Those 3 years flew by 🙂
  13. We're going to build something like this We'll have a 20mm thick base and header mounted on floor/ceiling but would like the slats to be rotatable. Thinking of something like a sprung push pin (not sure of right terms here) at the top but can't find anything that will depress say 15-20mm to make install/removal easier vs really small travel ones. For the base ideally soemthing that will allow rotation - not like it needs to be spinning around so just some kind of locating system for it to be held in place - the slats will be 2.9m long and I think weigh less than 10kg each so does not need to be too industrial - ideally we'd have the slats looking like they touch the floor Push pin Appreciate any suggestions for parts to make this work well
×
×
  • Create New...