Adam2

Some pics of my setup

As I have my own company owned EV I can apparently pay for the charge costs from my company which is v nice. Unfortunately I have a a very basic charger so wanted to find the easiest way to measure the usage. Is there something I can use in the consumer unit or should I find an old elec meter and install that in-line? My EV charger runs from a small consumer unit installed in the garage which seems to have some unused capacity.

Lots of questions come to mind - just finished an ICF house that I managed the build of. Cost - is this very important to you? Maybe other options will be cheaper? Insulation - Yes you get this with ICF but not in the floor or the ceiling (usually). if you really want this to be insulated curious why - if there is no heat source the temp will still drop/rise just more slowly so unless you use it for working in and have a heater then a high price for something that does not seem to provide much benefit. Not insulating the floor would be a big omission if insulating the walls and ceiling but would mean more groundworks unless you can just build up from current ground level and have a sloped entrance? Security - if you go with ICF you won't need rebar for security - if someone comes equipped to go through 150mm of concrete the rebar will not be a problem. No idea of the risk level of course but a timber building also has eco-crudentials and I would have thought you could get something up v fast. If you wanted insulation then maybe consider SIPs. Render is fine on ICF - JUB is on mine and seems good but others I'm sure are OK also. Flat roof - someone could easily get on top and in 5 mins cut out a space to jump down and probably open the door of your storage area etc - so your Ferrari will be off to the parts shop I'm not anti ICF just not enough info to know if it seems right for this purpose vs other options. It is appealing in that you can do a fair bit of work yourself but you could get a good carpenter in and go sail your boat 🙂

This is great news and thanks for sharing - today I had the building control sign-off 🙂 Those 3 years flew by 🙂

We're going to build something like this We'll have a 20mm thick base and header mounted on floor/ceiling but would like the slats to be rotatable. Thinking of something like a sprung push pin (not sure of right terms here) at the top but can't find anything that will depress say 15-20mm to make install/removal easier vs really small travel ones. For the base ideally soemthing that will allow rotation - not like it needs to be spinning around so just some kind of locating system for it to be held in place - the slats will be 2.9m long and I think weigh less than 10kg each so does not need to be too industrial - ideally we'd have the slats looking like they touch the floor Push pin Appreciate any suggestions for parts to make this work well

Here it is

Also recommend paying someone. I had similar - all 200mm concrete with a lot of reinforcement a good guy can do quite a few holes in a half day. For mine he bolted the drill to the wall - maybe he could have used a stand for the drill but a few were quite high. A bonus is that the cores are super smooth and with a bit of varnish make a nice ornament. Will post up from my phone 🙂 I've some decent extra long 20mm bits for small hole requirements and they actually work better than expected as long as rebar is not in the way

TV Wall - maybe consider a TV set into a fabric covered wood frame. You can more easily increase size if you need to and can also have speakers set behind the fabric so can provide a nice looking solution with some flexibility

I have an invertech which has been running fine but this eve the water is 23 with setpoint 45. Unit is running but not heating water. It is set for both got water and heating. Not aware of any time limits on heating the water. Any suggestions of what to check as thought would start heating water as a priority. Thanks

well no dust but plenty of water coming through the table when cutting - it's cold out neighbours can close the windows

Thanks all - in the end I found a Rubi table saw for a bargain locally so have that - did a test and even with the blade left in it it cuts cleanly through the 20mm tiles 🙂 Only issue is the amount of noise this is going to make, my neighbours probably thought I'd finished making a racket!

I've laid all the full tiles on my terrace (on pedestals) and now about to attack the edges - the tiles are 20mm porcelain 600x600. About 30 tiles to cut. I'd like to get a non or very minimally chipped top edge - what should I use for this? I understand the cutting disc is really important and I need a wet cutter. Would a simple table like this https://www.toolstation.com/vitrex-power-pro-750w-wet-tile-cutter/p82003?store=LQ&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed With a decent blade like this https://pureadhesion.co.uk/rubi-porcelain-tile-diamond-rim-machine-blade-cpc-180mm-30955/ be up to the job? Or do I need a big machine like this https://tools4trade.co.uk/products/excel-1250mm-wet-tile-cutter-bridge-saw-240v-1200w?variant=42311376273605&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoo12F815X3zguW7QZLU7TscCY51PE_vmPOLbFPYaUAjtbeUW5wJGE4 which maybe I should rent? I guess a blade that comes down into the tile face may mean a cleaner cut? cheers for info

I had similar but it was the LED bulbs used in a bedroom ceiling. Thought it was my automation boxes causing a small leakage current but was fixed by changing the bulbs - I guess some bulbs have a "feature" that does nothing with any very low level current? Maybe a quicker thing to check?

Well, maybe. The aim is to KISS 🙂 The ASHP / Buffer config is a setpoint of 34 degrees (thought was 32 as per original post) with a 3 degree differential. Meaning the UFH should be getting water in the range 31 to 37 degrees. I'll take the setpoint down to 30 and see how we get on. My concern with going lower is really just the time for the UFH to start having an impact. The room stats are all in the plant room so have remote probes in vented wall mounts Balancing - using self-balancing actuators so think this should be OK unless there is some other balancing you have in mind.