marshian

It really depends on age - both my Loft tanks (CW and F&E) have ball cock controls that are 45 years old - they've had between them 2 washers in 30 years - the whole thing takes 5 mins to strip down - it's all brass construction and will probably outlast me Most modern plastic stuff is crap - made to a price point and doesn't last long If it isn't an old brass unit I agree replace the whole thing and stick an isolation valve in the feed so the next time it needs replacing you don't need to turn off the water supply to the house

Oh that's rather neat but I have a question, related to it When I did my heat loss with an on-line process (heat engineer software) I used the internal wall measurements but your sheet seems to require external wall dimensions - is that normal practice?

Hard water area? Ball valve sealing washer is worn (or gone hard)

Similar here OAT overnight -4.4 Deg C All internal room temps held nice and stable overnight Boiler ran from Midnight to just before 10am with one burn (it finished that burn just before the HW cycle was scheduled probably due to OAT warming up or the modulation blips threw the flow temp over target. Avg energy usage for that period 3.81 kWh That's quite impressive considering the modulation hiccups it has on a regular basis Looking like my heat loss calcs are a little more than actual ~4.25 kWh @ -2.5 OAT

Perfect summary

House is 1/3 of yours 113m2 however it is a stupid T shape with many rooms having 3 external walls which in a 1980’s house hurts. what I would say however is heating 24/7 with or without setbacks for me is actually not much of an increase on heating via a schedule with much higher flow temps for shorter periods morning and night - house temp swings were dramatic - far too easy to overheat the house and it never felt as comfortable as it does now. (Less than £50 a year from memory) what really triggered the move to 24/7 was that I would run the CH at the weekend all day and Monday would always be really low usage compared to the rest of the week - simple when I thought about it - I’d warmed up the internal fabric of the house over the weekend and on Mondays it gave it up again…..

WHS ^ I did manual WC for nearly 2 years on scheduled heating - it worked quite well - not as good as WC but really only a few days a year when you really need to wind up the flow temps rest of the time a happy medium works well

From my non technical viewpoint and I'm going to phase it as such For the burner to be running at 100% then the water flowing thro the boiler must be taking that heat input - which means the return temp water is cool enough to enable the boiler to "have at it" Only when the heat capacity of the return flow is less than the full power of the boiler will the boiler modulate down (OK it may rise above target set point before it does that but that will be in the programming of the boiler MBU) Basically you have a circuit of water (Pipes and rads) and it's taking a fair old time before the return water starts to warm up enough to cause the boiler to modulate down.

I'm pretty OCD when it comes to pipework/wiring now - If I've had a floor up I normally take a photo of pipework/wiring while the floor is up Then I'll mark out the "unsafe" zones with permanent marker on the floor - the photo is especially useful if you then go and tile the floor and cover the "unsafe" zone markings (Always handy to be able to refer to it if you ever need to put a fixing in) Of course I haven't always done the above - I don't have a picture of the master bedroom floor before it went down - when it was laid I also didn't mark the floor for any pipework or wiring. There is one section that always has a little creak - wakes up Mrs Alien if I've come in late having had a few beers She wanted new carpet so we ordered carpet and arranged for a fitter - day before we emptied all the furniture, cut up and removed all the old carpet and underlay - the morning of the carpet fitting I walked on the creaky bit and it reminded me to throw another screw or two at it - as I looked at the floor it was bloody obvious I'd missed two screws out Creaky floor resolved - new carpet and underlay laid OK you all know what happened next.......... well not actually next as water takes a little while to escape if you've put a self cutting screw thro a copper heating pipe and plasterboard is pretty good at holding water - screws that held it to the ceiling joist not so much

I’d stick with the boiler until end of life (or close to it) just from an environmental perspective (not replacing something that is still functional and effectively a very bloody good and efficient boiler).

I can go one better (or worse depending on viewpoint) Utility room sink waste was slow to drain - not unusual as Mrs Alien has a small tendency to slightly overdose on the washing powder so over a period of time it tends to clog up the drain so a strip down and clean out was required Having learnt from previous occasions the last time I rebuilt the section I put a couple of strategic compression joints in what is mainly all solvent welds. sections removed and then rodded/scraped/chiselled out and rinsed thro in the sink. The plan was drop all the muck and water into a bucket under the sink…… Off course only a complete idiot would pull the plug out without having placed a bucket in the cupboard under the sink……. oh how I laughed!!!!!

Ouch what caused that - clearly not a dart?

Christ - that sounds painful but progress looks good

I have Wiser - went down the whole micro management with 13 smart TRV’s (one for every room/rad) complicated schedules, heating only the rooms when they were needed - it worked but was horrible to manage. All now removed and replaced with PICV and dumb TRV heads the Wiser hub remains with one roomstat - running 24/7 with WC - if I ever get round to connecting it to the boiler it will give me remote access to turn off or turn on the boiler and that’s all I need - however the boiler has it’s own app and it’s easier just to use that when I need to.

I have very similar one - have you tried powering it down Mine always re-gens if the power is accidently turned off Bottom of the screen on mine normally shows 4 blocks which is the state of the resin and then it re-charges overnight unless you catch it out with abnormal usage. Only other advice I can give is keep a careful eye on the pipework - Mine decided to weep over a few months - the crimp had started to fail