marshian

Interesting topic - Heat Geek have just released a video on the subject and there was one thing that got my attention bearing in mind I am all rads (no UFH) and they are almost all converted to TBOE from a flow perspective - I will one day convert to heat pump but when the boiler dies or Gas v Electricity cost perspective drives the change. Anyway here it is

Perfect solution - glad I could help

Put another concrete block in a non visible area so you can test it there?

Well I have a new HW tank to fit soon but I've been trying to optimise the HW a little more - Average consumption is 4kWh per day to do the water heating for two people occupancy. Flow temp is typically 66 Deg C return temp peaks at 61 Deg C, 115 Litre tank and 30 Min Cycle with the tank ending up at 52 Deg C (I've tried the lower and slower approach and to be honest it actually uses more gas but I think that's because of overshooting the target temp when I did it) However because of the X plan set up it does mean even in the summer I put a slug of 68 deg water into the rads straight after the HW cycle is finished. In winter no issues - it helps make up for the HW cycle time out of CH - summer it contribute to heat gain in the house...... I decided to do an experiment.......... If I run the HW for 30 mins and ten kill the boiler and continue to circulate the HW system with no boiler activity I can get an increase in the tank temp of 2 deg C and the water hitting the rads is down to 50 deg C I'm now thinking about putting a delay timer on the HW valve closing 10 mins after HW cycle is completed to extract the last bit of energy out of boiler and circuit Mad idea?

What @Nickfromwales said although I wouldn't even give it a 1/10

Kingspan K70 from memory. ordered it thro insulation4less

I was in a similar situation and 75mm ended up as the sweet spot cost wise but it's always worth working out cost per m2 for various thicknesses as well as pack sizes. Pound for pound it's the best thing I've ever done to the house from an energy reduction perspective Did mean I had to add a PIV into the mix as humidity levels sky rocketed due to the reduction in uncontrolled air ingress but it's still been the best thing I've done you may need to consider additional ventilation options/solutions

I'm confused by the need to run Biocide (even if cooling) - if the circuit is shared with HW coil? surely the temp required to occasionally heat the HW via a coil would be enough to provide some sterilisation?

Proper had a laugh at that - thank you

Probably in your cache - I can't see it either

Exactly my thoughts - there is a company doing brick-weave drives locally but I'm not impressed with their prep work - I reckon those drives will soon suffer with tram-lining where cars are repeatedly parked in the same place

For the lol's or alternatively why I DIY rather than pay people to do things I had the drive brick-weaved about many years ago - but in the last few years the manhole cover seems to be rising out of the drive Of course that's pretty unusual and I suspected that it was actually the area around it was getting lower but wondered how that was happening So I removed a load of blocks and then the manhole cover and found my issue - the frame was sitting on what remained of the original mortar a very uneven mess - bedded down on 4 blobs of silicone!!! FFS So there was my smoking gun - the sand was being washed into the manhole when we had a downpour and there wasn't a car on top of it. So I got the concrete grinder out and leveled the top off Bedded it down on some mortar and threw the sand back in - a few sting lines to get the level and the pile of blocks can go back in All done

I've got to tile a utility and kitchen floor - actual m2 is 14.5 - I'll order 16.5 - In the past I've found 10% just too tight - running before the job is finished and then having to get more is a PITA

In the same way houses lose heat - "Hot always moves to cold" - like cold rooms steal heat from warm rooms, the outside steals heat from a heated house - it might not be as effective as say AC but the rule is just the same - warm room - cool floor the hot is going to go to cold.

Have you fixed your leak yet ? 😉