marshian

so it the HW heating on demand via temp sensor (ie as soon as sensor sees 5 deg lower than target temp it tops up) or timed to once a day? with a 250 litre tank and lowish usage you could run cooler temp and use more of the tank if heated once a day - if you have visitors either heat to a higher temp (change the bi-metalic sensor to higher temp or increase frequency of re-heat at same temp) our tank is typically down to ~30 deg overnight and reheated in ~40 mins in the morning (using ~3 kWh of gas to do so) winter when cold water is coming in at a lower temp (10 deg) it’s down to 20 deg overnight and reheated to ~55 deg in 20 mins in the morning (house losses are increased in winter) (using ~5 kWh of gas to do so) It’s what works best for us…..

Easier viewing than the HG Website

If it's a loop that supplies all the hot taps and as a result no delays in HW at the tap then it's returning to the tank and is not what I would term avoiding stagnation because legionaires isn't just about stagnation it's about controlling the temp of the water store to avoid optimum growth temps. If you are using all the water in the tank every day then risk is much reduced We only have a 115 Litre tank - we heat to between 48 and 50 deg C and heat just once a day (except on bath night) We pretty much use all of the water every day with 2 showers morning and evening plus a little washing up Is your HW loop 24/7 or on a timer to minimise tank losses - if it's on for long periods of time it will be dragging down the tank temp and as a result you need to run the tank hotter to compensate and it won't be helping the plant room temps

That's almost certainly the case for everyone.

When my neighbour replaced the gutters on her single garage (they are joined to my double length garage) the “handy man” joined the two sections with a wood screw because the gutters were different profiles as well as wood screws holding the gutter to down-pipe join I didn’t know this till later. My garage wall was showing signs of damp so I asked her if I could pop into her garden and check it out. I found this in her down pipe I’m not keen on screws thro plastic pipes as they can catch stuff and lead to blockages…..

Or even one 90 deg to the right and then another 90 deg that can set the angle to whatever is required - good plan it would have to be tight to the wall to stop it being forced apart - depends on how much water is expected?

Quick Google https://www.r-e-a.net/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Boiler-Upgrade-Scheme-Launch-Event-QA.pdf 1. If a customer disconnects from the gas grid, and then a heat pump is installed, then reconnects back to the gas grid (say for cooking purposes) what would happen? 2. Can a gas connection be retained for cooking purposes? Answer: Heat pumps are eligible to be installed in properties on or off the gas grid. A gas connection may be retained or reconnected for cooking purposes. 2. Can a gas connection be retained for cooking purposes? Answer: Heat pumps are eligible to be installed in properties on or off the gas grid. A gas connection may be retained or reconnected for cooking purposes.

I thought that the BUS Grant wasn't impacted by continuing to use gas for cooking?

Alternatively - if you get some solvent weld adhesive and it melts the down pipe fitting you might be able to pie cut a fitting and then solvent weld it??

I'd be gluing a 45 deg bend to the down pipe and then firing up a hot air gun and heating the downpipe just after the bend to make it form to the required 38 deg angle - you are never gonna see it from ground level and the water is going to want to flow along the bottom of the down pipe anyway

When I was doing my suspended ground floor insulation a couple of years ago I was reasonably flexible with thickness - I could use anything from 60 mm to 100 mm it's worth investigating / calculating the cost comparing sizes sometimes there is a sweet spot where it works out you get better price For me 75 mm was a few pence more that 60mm but a significant amount cheaper than 80mm (obviously if you need fixed thicknesses and can't deviate then it doesn't help)

Yeah that’s a little bit more flow than the average rad based gas boiler circuit due to a very low dt (for clarification my usage was based on boiler dt of 5-7 deg c - a flow rate of 0.4 m3 / hr at a WC flow temp of 23 to 32 deg C. My old grundfos pump was 35W at similar flow rates (modern pumps are witchcraft)

70W is a pretty high usage for a modern circulation pump on a gas central heating circuit - mines using 13W 13W x 24 x 180 = 56kWh or £14 It was one of the factors I worked out before going 24/7 on CH The old pump I will grant you was a Watt hungry little sod.......... Imagine if all the houses in the UK adopted modern pumps saving £50 a year - the payback would be under 3 years.............

Hopping on the conversation - does anyone know what the scores are for all aspects of EPC assessment - I've googled a few times and not had a decent hit?

You're thinking shove the WD40 can in the mouth - because yes that would?