marshian

Finished all the boarded area now Also core drilled a hole in two of the four gable ends from the inside out and didn't explode the faces (Thanks @Nickfromwales - took your approach of slow and let the cutter do the work Then slotted in a short length of soil pipe and capped it with a stainless steel vent plate Heights don't normally worry me but this was working at the max extension of my ladder Did the same on the other side of the house so I'm now getting a nice thro flow when the wind is in the right direction with an added bonus that loft temps are an average of 5 Deg C lower than they were before for same OAT Humidity levels in the loft have reduced too

Tiles are Marley Mendips "burnt orange" (ie teracotta with black overspray) - yeah I'm not going to be lucky there!!! Sorry OP for the roofjack

Just the one I remember - I'm sure it involved talc rather than flour

The bricks I have blow faces off for shits and giggles - I'll drill a pilot hole thro from the outside then core drill for an inch or so max then revert to inside the loft follow the pilot hole and do the rest from inside Two of the gable ends have Fink trusses so they are fine I can centre the vent in the gable end just below the top of the trusses and have no worries about it looking odd outside The other two gable end trusses one is "King Post" and the other "Queen Post" trusses so right in the centre of the gable end I have an upright so I'll have to drill off centre to the centre (if you get what I mean) and that will mess with my head So I may have to put two vents in those - one on each side of the Post!!!! It's OK I know I have an OCD problem - I just have to manage it

That's the intention - let natural convection or if there is a bit of a breeze it'll help I'm slightly OCD I need to drill from outside to in because the are a red cored bricks with a light buff sand finish on two outer faces - go from inside to out and I'll have a shed load of blown faces which will really piss me off every time I look at it - I made that mistake once in the seating area and I've covered it with an outside wall clock Neck oil is quite good if you like Wingman

Loft has no ridge vents - fitting them would be an PITA and involve a shed load of scaffolding - it will need a roof job at some stage so I'll do that then In the meantime I'm either going to put a couple of air bricks in the top of the gable ends (4 gable ends - stupid T-shaped house) or core drill a 110mm hole the equivalent of bathroom extractor vents and then put mesh ends on them - both would help a lot of trapped heat escape and possibly improved the ventilation / humidity levels in the winter I get you on that - Lemon Gin is way better than IPA - not quite as good as ghost ship mind

PIV works for us most of the heat used to hit the upstairs from a poorly insulated loft (just 70mm of insulation) with a large south facing expanse of concrete roof tiles which really soak up the heat from the sun Yesterday peak day time temp outside was 22 deg C - loft temp hit 34 deg C - PIV turns off at 25 Deg C Now we have 370mm (well we will have shortly when I finish the last areas) I’m already seeing lower upstairs ceiling temps so it is helping My main issue is Mrs Alien refuses to have windows open at night (apparently something to do with eight legged things) Not an issue in winter house doesn’t overheat then but as a result of that “commandment” I’m slightly constrained in spring, summer and autumn In life if someone gives you lemons you have to make lemon gin

We have PIV unit - In the summer we run it flat out during night when air is cooler and during the morning until the unit temp sensor hits 25 deg - then it turns off until temp drops below 25 it’s proved very effective at cooling the house - not AC cool but just cooler than it had been before we installed it. we do adopt a blinds/curtains closed on south facing side of the house which minimises solar gain during the day in the height of summer spring and autumn the solar gain is appreciated and it’s not as big as it is in summer

I’d started a couple of tasks yesterday but not completed finished 2 & 3 this afternoon Boxed in the bathroom extractor fan unit (and insulated around the pipework inside the box) Lid is removable for maintenance or replacement but main purpose of boxing in was to use up some offcuts and insulate plus stop me tripping over the pipe Loft hatch completed This is the top hatch 25mm of celotex glued to a thin ply board original loft hatch also lined with celotex 25mm to help seal up and also improve insulation properties of a badly fitting plywood hatch It’s very noticable the impact on the PIV output, before with just the single plywood loft hatch when it was shut and the PIV was on you could feel the airflow escaping through the hatch into the loft now with the new set up you can’t so the PIV will hopefully reach places it didn’t before Damn it was hot up there when I started!!!! Hatch open and patio door open I’m getting a decent airflow to push out the hot air and it’s down to a much more comfortable 28 deg C

Still ticking along with this although the recent warm spell has made it a bit uncomfortable up there (it's currently nearly 5pm and my loft temp and humidity sensor is telling me it's 34.6 deg C and 32.5 %RH One end from hatch to the gable wall is now fully finished Other end with the water tanks in the distance I need to join the side section to the middle area Also need to 1. Raise the lights up a smidge I keep clipping the with my head 2. Box in the shower extract fan 3. Insulate the loft hatch board and create a second trap door to increase the sealing 4. Re-do the pipework on Right that goes from Airing cupboard to the Cold Water store and F&E tank

That just makes my eyes go weird!!!!

Can't do that one I'm at Goodwood doing a car show build up

Excellent result and IMO bloody good value as long as the aches and pains go away with time

Couple of points I think your water calcs are a bit pessimistic (Appreciate worst case is probably safer but......) 1. Mains water does vary but around 10 deg C is as cold as I've seen in Norfolk 2. The tank is always going to have some bleed of hot to cold so at the point of re-heat it's more likely for the bottom of the tank to be in the 20 deg area and top to be low to mid 30's as a start point This mornings water heating with a gas boiler was 4.5 kW used Start Temp Top 34.1 C End Temp Top 51.7 C Start Temp Bottom 26.4 End Temp Bottom 51.1 Tank is about 115 Litres

I'm absolutely sure it would work on all houses (as you say you are just putting the same amount of energy in to replace the energy lost) but I'm also equally sure that if I had WC on our house 25 years back I wouldn't have liked the bills much.......... I think once you get the level of insulation/air tightness up to a half decent std it comes into it's own in comparison to scheduled heating