marshian

That is a lovely tip and one I would never have thought of - Thanks for sharing New Kitchen being delivered in Oct so very useful and timely

I'm so disappointed he didn't buy one of these for each room I loved the advertised claims, then the test and finally the deconstruction of the unit The old adage is "if it looks too good to be true then it probably is" has never been more apt

Lovely european feel to that - Bravo

^ This 100% When I applied for planning permission for a 2 storey house extension and a single storey garage extension I had 5 objections to planning from neighbours - all were over-ruled (3 because the extensions wouldn't be visible so them) and 2 other the reason for objections were already covered by the plans (obscured glass in one window for one side and no window on another wall for the other) Having gained planning I then had to put up with further complaints from the two all thro the build - people can just be knobs about the pettiest things. Final complaint was related to the boundary fence which I was re-instating to 6ft as per original and planning were advising that it could only be 3ft and I ended up telling the planning officer to take me to court if they wanted (in the meantime I made the 6ft fence into a 6ft gate ) which really pissed the neighbour off

If I got an EPC done it would state that with a gas boiler the heat energy required is 18,000 kWh for CH and 3500 kWh for HW We heat 24/7 with a weather compensated flow temp that peaks at 35 at -2.5 Deg C outside and actual kWh is 8000 for CH and 2000 kWh for HW Just as bonkers - EPC's aren't worth a toss IMO if I was looking to buy a house I'd want to see the last years worth of energy statements - far better guide than an EPC

Interesting topic - Heat Geek have just released a video on the subject and there was one thing that got my attention bearing in mind I am all rads (no UFH) and they are almost all converted to TBOE from a flow perspective - I will one day convert to heat pump but when the boiler dies or Gas v Electricity cost perspective drives the change. Anyway here it is

Perfect solution - glad I could help

Put another concrete block in a non visible area so you can test it there?

Well I have a new HW tank to fit soon but I've been trying to optimise the HW a little more - Average consumption is 4kWh per day to do the water heating for two people occupancy. Flow temp is typically 66 Deg C return temp peaks at 61 Deg C, 115 Litre tank and 30 Min Cycle with the tank ending up at 52 Deg C (I've tried the lower and slower approach and to be honest it actually uses more gas but I think that's because of overshooting the target temp when I did it) However because of the X plan set up it does mean even in the summer I put a slug of 68 deg water into the rads straight after the HW cycle is finished. In winter no issues - it helps make up for the HW cycle time out of CH - summer it contribute to heat gain in the house...... I decided to do an experiment.......... If I run the HW for 30 mins and ten kill the boiler and continue to circulate the HW system with no boiler activity I can get an increase in the tank temp of 2 deg C and the water hitting the rads is down to 50 deg C I'm now thinking about putting a delay timer on the HW valve closing 10 mins after HW cycle is completed to extract the last bit of energy out of boiler and circuit Mad idea?

What @Nickfromwales said although I wouldn't even give it a 1/10

Kingspan K70 from memory. ordered it thro insulation4less

I was in a similar situation and 75mm ended up as the sweet spot cost wise but it's always worth working out cost per m2 for various thicknesses as well as pack sizes. Pound for pound it's the best thing I've ever done to the house from an energy reduction perspective Did mean I had to add a PIV into the mix as humidity levels sky rocketed due to the reduction in uncontrolled air ingress but it's still been the best thing I've done you may need to consider additional ventilation options/solutions

I'm confused by the need to run Biocide (even if cooling) - if the circuit is shared with HW coil? surely the temp required to occasionally heat the HW via a coil would be enough to provide some sterilisation?

Proper had a laugh at that - thank you

Probably in your cache - I can't see it either