FarmerN

Mines a NIBE GSHP . Have water heating on all day set at 48 degrees C . If I get up early, I boost water heating to 53 C while we are on cheap rate. Theres a 2 hr “ more hot water” button. Not looked at Scheduling yet. What I would like to do is Schedule night water heating at a higher temperature that day temp. Currently running at COP of 6+ while ground is still warm so heat on Economy 7 is costing very little.

Just suppose I did not have an EV , is the tarrif still avaliable? I want to do similar to what you describe above , run the house entirely on very cheap rate. Might get caught in very cold weather mid winter when there is little PV production and high heat demand, but currently can run easily on Econ 7. The EV just might move on in the future.

We did 115mm PIR in block/ brick external wall. The block wall was perfect with cavity side beatifully pointed but still impossible to get a really tight fit between PIR and blocks. Even very small air gaps alows for a chimney effect, leading to thermal bypass and a massive reduction from the paper u value. Come January I'll find out what it really does to our heating bill. We were supposed to have a 10mm cavity between PIR and brick but this is also near impossible and gets too much mortar in while the bricks are being laid. The builder did use the correct tape to tape all pir joints, think the tape alone came to almost £1000 !

Is hireing a good one an option? We have finished our build so be hard to fix a problem, but would still be interestin to see where we went wrong.

Check that only foul drainage is getting into system, not clean water from roof and paving as well, otherwise as above. ,

My Land Registry has the following entries A. Property Register " Land On The West Side Of xxxxxxx Lane, XXXXXXXX. B Proprietorship Register Tiltle absolute PROPIETOR my name and Home address and email address. Hope that helps. Which reminds me now we have built and moved in we probably need to change the Land Registry entries to our new address.

So perhaps the sewage discharges to rivers, during wet weather, are not entirely the water companies fault.

Try British Geological Survey https://www.bgs.ac.uk/information-hub/borehole-records/ What is a borehole record? Boreholes range from one to several thousand metres deep. Borehole records are produced from a geologist’s or surveyor’s observations of the rock core extracted from the ground and typically include locality and lithological descriptions with depth and thickness. Geophysical logs may also be noted from on-site measurements. Abbreviations used in borehole/water well records What is a borehole? 400 KB pdf National well archive Searching BGS borehole records also gives you access to the the National Well Record Collection. It contains more than 130 000 classified records of wells, boreholes and springs within England and Wales; a unique database of hydrogeological information.

Yes Yes, a pretty good air tight membrane laid on the blocks, lapped up wall taped to a wide draping DPM, one or two doorways left a bit to be desired on a perfect seal, but no sign of air leakage at airtightness testing. Also a second membrane above the insulation beneath the dry screed used. This however was well punctured by the staples used to hold the UFH pipes in place.

I bought from these guys. https://www.dlf.co.uk/amenity Which mix depends on use lawn is going to get. Can sow up to middle of October , but the sooner it's sown the better the cover over the winter months. If sown very late, it will be better if you keep off it till spring.

I suppose I was just not committed enough to the Passive house. Also wanted to use local people and was just getting no support from two different SE or architect. The theoretical u values of the floor are still good, but I have no faith in the whole beam and block construction, cold air beneath the floor instead of solid earth . Yes also worried about thermal bridging It’s all built now so got to live with it. A thermal imaging camera in winter will be interesting. We have GSHP, MVHR , PV and battery Yet to live through a winter, so February will be interesting.

We had a meter of clay over wet sand with trees close by. Was more or less forced into piles down 4.5 M by structural engeneer , who was worried about clay shrinkage in summer due to tress. Ended up with Beam and block foundations with 180 mm insulation under 90mm screed. Perinsula under perimiter walls at insulation level. My dream when we started out was a passive raft, possibly on Foam glass aggregate ( Geocell ) as the site needed building up a bit.

We had exactly the same situation, demolished a damp bungalow, in a hole, the front and back lawns always flooded. We raised the whole foot print of the build by 600mm, and now have a steady fall from the rear of the house to the road. The build was beam and block ,which made raising the actual house very easy as there is a void with no fill under the floors. The patio and drive way were raised with reclaimed crushed stone , leaving only the garden to fill with soil. We cleared 200mm of top soil off the whole site before the build started, fortunatly we had space to stack this and keep it clean. Then filled the garden area up with subsoil from the fondations with a bit of imported subsoil ,capped off with the saved topsoil. The planners had specified the ground level to eaves height, but fortunatly not the datum ground level.

We have just moved into our new build ,with Rationel triple glazed windows. Pleased so far. We moved from an old farm house with single glazing where you could hear the dawn chorus, now deathly silence when I get up in the morning. My wife definitely does not like the silence. In a rural location there is a down side to the acoustic benefits. The mistake we made fitting the windows was with plastering the reveals, the plaster was not thick enough, leaving airtight tape showing on the window frames. Tried removing surplus tape, impossible, ended up with wood beading round reveals on to the frame to cover the exposed tape on the frames.

We have new Velux Integra electric windows in our new build bungalow. They were all working yesterday but we have managed to jam one shut while trying to reset remotes. ( KLI 311) The remote is now delinked , but the window is jammed shut and we are unable to open it with the manual bar , which seems to be totally jammed in the closed position. I have put a fair bit of force on the bar but am afraid of breaking it. We have clearly messed up during the delink sequence and have managed to lock it shut. I think we need it open to start the relink process with the remote. It all started as we had two windows opening from one remote. Four other windows working perfectly. How do we open? Anyone else been in the same situation.?