
Dave Anderson
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Everything posted by Dave Anderson
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Perimeter insulation at thresholds
Dave Anderson replied to cwr's topic in General Construction Issues
Thanks Russell, I can see that would be a smart option -
Perimeter insulation at thresholds
Dave Anderson replied to cwr's topic in General Construction Issues
Revisiting this old thread as I have the same issue. Prior to floor screed I put in 25mm PIR perimeter insulation, against the patio door frame. Now, as the carpet is to be laid next week, it occurs to me that they have nothing solid to glue the grippers to. So I think I will have to dig out the PIR, fill it with self levelling, and rely on the thermal properties of the door frame to avoid a cold edge to the screed. Is there a "normal" solution to this issue? -
Blinding beam and block before insulation?
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in General Construction Issues
Good point, thanks savea -
Blinding beam and block before insulation?
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in General Construction Issues
Were actually using traditional hand trowelled screed at 60mm. But anyway I accept that 150 kg/M2 screed should sort it. So I might revert to a single layer of PIR as cheaper and quicker. -
Blinding beam and block before insulation?
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in General Construction Issues
That's reassuring, thanks Nod -
Blinding beam and block before insulation?
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in General Construction Issues
Thanks everyone, a variety of ideas all with much merit I think. I guess there is also the option of adding some self levelling, but with an area of 160m2 it's a bit pricey (Toolstation £500 at average 3mm thickness) so prefer to avoid if possible. I think I'll aim to persevere with chopping out the globs of grout as best I can with the Mutt and a chisel, then try "screeding" some soft sand into the low bits. Then let the PIR bend/crush to the shape under the weight of the wet screed. Unless anyone has any more suggestions? Still to decide whether to go with two 60mm layers of PIR. -
Blinding beam and block before insulation?
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in General Construction Issues
Thanks for the idea Russell. Had a quick look and there seems to be a few 110v machines that might do it. Just wondering what sort of machine worked for you? Did you use something like this (I think you have to by carborundum or diamond blocks for it) or this or was it a heavy pneumatic scabbler? -
Blinding beam and block before insulation?
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in General Construction Issues
Ok thanks I'll consider that - but probably will cost a bit more. So would you not bother with sand? -
Hi all, I've read a fair few threads on here, but still have questions! Any advice will be much appreciated. Our builder has done the shell of our self build bungalow. They have grouted the beam and block nice and solid, and it's now over to me to do the DPM, 120mm PIR and 2nd membrane before the heating company do the UFH. But brushing-in the cement grout has left ridges up to 10mm high. I have begun breaking off the worst ones but it is very tough and impossible to get completely level. I'm worried about the insulation rocking or sagging, and any such movement inducing cracking in the screed. The builder has said it is usual to blind the floor with sand to take out discrepancies in level, but how would you get the sand level? Spreading the sand and dragging a straight edge over it? Once the DPM is down it's too late to adjust the sand if a PIR board is found to be rocking. Can anyone advise how to get this right?
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Front door level threshold detail
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Thanks Dave, so something like this... It looks like you'd have a small piece of the stub cill visible below the aluminium? Maybe a bit messy, but as long as the supplier can colour code it to the door frame it might look OK? Because we will have cut stone surround to the door I still think it might be neater to use a matching stone cill and just try to keep it clean. Then just decide whether I need positive drainage in which case just leave a 10mm gap with a channel below as per original post, or rely on the porch to keep the area relatively dry. Thanks again for your reply. -
Front door level threshold detail
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Doors & Door Frames
I assume the Macclex threshold will have drain holes out the front. So I think as Russell pointed out the door is sheltered by a porch I can rely on any relatively occassional wind-driven rain emerging onto the stone cill, then running away due to the slope of the cill and paving. I have therefore removed the drainage channel, allowing me to build up some extra blockwork to provide better support to the stone cill. I've also filled the cavity with concrete up to top of beam and block, to support the Compacfoam. Have I missed anything regards damp proofing? This design really just relies on the DPM wrapping up against the outer skin of blockwork. I've also removed the DPC under the stone cill, which didn't really seem to be doing anything. Is this OK? I'm wondering whether I can get the Compacfoam, being lightweight, to sit down tightly onto the DPM. Or will any creases in the DPM hold it up enabling it to then move under the weight of people on the door threshold? I'm thinking perhaps I could insert some threaded bars (as indicated on Compacfoam's website) and weigh the Compacfoam down whilst the screed is being poured. Any thoughts appreciated. -
Front door level threshold detail
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Thanks bassanclan, I'm sure that would look better. Only concern might be if any water does get into the threshold strip, where can it drain to? -
Front door level threshold detail
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Umm, fair point. There will be an oak porch, but with open sides, so some rain will blow in. The roof of the porch is 2.6m wide, so about 0.9m past each edge of the door. So probably unnecessary then. Thanks for flagging that up. -
Front door level threshold detail
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Thanks Russell. I've been a little concerned about the stability of the stone cill - if someone put all their weight on the leading edge it will tend to rock. I suppose the stone jambs at each end of the cill should hold it down ok, but I might pull the drainage channel forward and make sure it is offering some additional support. -
Hi all, Our new build bungalow is underway - walls are up to DPC and beam & block is in. I have been puzzling for ages over the front door threshold. I have read a lot of posts here and elsewhere, and nothing ever quite fits my scenario. I have tried to understand the principles and have come up with my own detail which is shown below. I would appreciate any comments, criticisms or advice anyone can offer. Balancing insulation requirements, airtightness, watertightness, structural needs and aesthetics in a level threshold design seems to be a black art. We have no architect on board - we have preferred to carry out all design work ourselves (for better or worse). We have a masonry cavity wall with 150 cavity (50 air gap and 100 PIR). The outer skin is natural stone, with cut stone window surrounds and jambs to the front door. I do not like extended aluminium thresholds so am proposing a cut stone cill as shown. Endurance have shown me a number of their threshold options, the neatest of which in my opinion is a Macclex section which has a minimal aluminium projection externally which should throw water down onto the stone cill. The thing I am struggling the most with is providing adequate structural support to the threshold. I want to position the frame 50mm into the cavity, so it will not really be supported by the stone cill. I don't want to widen the stone cill to support the threshold, as it would be a cold bridge. Compacfoam or similar seems to be the way to go. But what supports the Compacfoam? This is solved in my design by filling the cavity with concrete to beam and block level and sitting the Compacfoam on that. Many thanks for reading this. I'd be very grateful for any comments or pointers.
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Aluminium Crittal internal French doors
Dave Anderson replied to Canski's topic in Windows & Glazing
Yes I think some if not all of these systems are made for patio doors therefore can be double glazed - certainly Origin are. -
Aluminium Crittal internal French doors
Dave Anderson replied to Canski's topic in Windows & Glazing
Hi canski, I've recently had quotes for similar Crittall-like internal aluminium doors 1500 wide x 2400 high ( including a top light). Smart's Aluspace was £2300 + vat. Seniors Architectural Systems £2900 + vat. Origin £2600 + vat. Of the ones we have seen in showrooms we think Aluco are the best looking - but quote was around 4k. What system was your quote? -
Constructional hearth on beam and block
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Stoves, Fires & Fireplaces
Thanks for the idea. I suppose I'd be worried about rockwool providing stable support to the hearth and stove. Thanks, sounds like a good solution. I might have to check with my SAP assessor (or maybe best not to?) -
Constructional hearth on beam and block
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Stoves, Fires & Fireplaces
Yes Conor, the top of a constructional hearth has to be at least 250mm above any combustible material, unless there is a 50mm air space between them. Seems to be very difficult to achieve where insulation is above the structural floor, unless the hearth is raised significantly above the floor level. -
Constructional hearth on beam and block
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Stoves, Fires & Fireplaces
Thanks nod, but if the PIR is still there then the 125mm hearth has to have a 50mm air space below it, which would put the hearth surface 110mm above the floor. We're looking for something lower than that. Thanks Conor, what do you mean by compact foam? Is that a non-combustable material? -
Has anyone built a constructional hearth on a beam and block floor? I'm struggling with this a bit so any pointers much appreciated. I'm finalising the construction drawings - works starting hopefully mid- March - it's a new build bungalow. We're wanting a wood burner in a recess (ie in a chimney breast). My reading of the bdg regs is that the 12mm tiles option (if the appliance won't heat the hearth above 100 degrees) only applies if the appliance is not in a recess. Therefore I need a 125mm constructional hearth. My floor is 65mm screed on 120mm PIR. I could I suppose build the hearth straight off the beam and block, but surely that would be a massive cold bridge. What do people do?
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Thanks for the idea Torre
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How to include a diagram in a post
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Introduce Yourself
Snipping tool! That's the answer I wanted. Works great, even in turbocad model view. A great tool that I didn't even know I had! Thanks again Jack -
How to include a diagram in a post
Dave Anderson replied to Dave Anderson's topic in Introduce Yourself
Thanks very much for your detailed reply jack. In the turbocad model I isolated the detail I wanted to share, then created a drawing of just that detail. Then in the drawing view I could select the image and copy it to the clipboard. But on pasting into my buildhub message it just pasted in a 2kb thumbnail. I'll explore the snipping tool this evening and let you know how it goes. -
Anyone have any thoughts on my second query about window frame drainage? This picture shows an example of what we would like to achieve (ie no upvc stub sill), but there's no sign of any window frame drainage. Have they made a mistake or am I missing something?