Dave Anderson

I thought that issue might come up, having seen previous discussions about it on here. I think our builder is good and take pride in their work, and PIR is what they know. They were certainly not keen when I asked about 90mm PIR in a 100mm cavity with a view to slightly larger rooms! I might have a chat with them about rockwool.

Thanks nod, so that would put my windows 50mm into the cavity which is ok with regs. And the windows would be better supported. And give us wider window boards! But I guess there would be slightly more of a cold bridge as the frame would not overlap the main body of insulation?

We're about to appoint a builder to demolish an existing bungalow and build the shell for our replacement bungalow (in Lancashire). The design and drawings, building regs etc are all our own work, ie no Architect involved. I've seen a few threads on here discussing window position ie how much to overlap the cavity, and thinking this through leads to a few related queries. Diagram below: The walls are rendered blockwork (or stone to the front elevation), 150mm cavity with 100mm PIR, 100mm aerated blockwork with parge coat, and plasterboard on dabs. The windows are 100mm thick frames (Residence Collection R9).The diagram shows my proposed position. 1. This position gives 75mm overlap into the cavity, which does not seem to comply with the building regs requirement for 30-50mm overlap. Am I right to assume the 30-50mm can be regarded as a minimum? I think it is recognised best practice to push the window fully in line with the cavity, but I don't want to go that far. Does this position as drawn look OK to people? 2. I've read about window frame drainage, which can be face drained (ie with ugly holes showing) or through a stub sill, which I think gives a messy detail when overlapping a stone sill (or concrete). Is there a way of doing it as drawn? I'm struggling to get full engagement on this detail with the window supplier at this stage - the sales/managerial staff just seem to want to leave it to their surveyor to sort out once the walls are built. But potentially it could influence the shape of the stone sill, so needs to be decided now. 3. The cavity closers I have seen are quite flimsy. Are there some that are able to support the weight of the window? Otherwise it will have to be shimmed off just the 25mm inner edge of the stone sill. How are windows supported when they are placed fully within the cavity? Hope this all makes sense. I'd be really grateful for any advice or comments.

Windows 10. The pdf version is 15kb. Copying and pasting direct from turbocad (via clipboard) - can't see a way of finding file size in clipboard. No worries, I've found I can copy from turbocad and paste into PowerPoint, then copy and paste into buildhub and it works fine, bizarrely.

Thanks prodave, that works - I always forget about print screen. (I don't know where to find the file size for something on the clipboard in file manager, but no worries the print screen is fine.) Ill post my actual topic later on in windows and glazing.

Jack, much appreciate your help, but still can't get it to work. I can copy the image in turbocad (almost A4 size, @1:5 scale) - but when I paste into my buildhub message it inserts a tiny thumbnail version of the drawing - a 2kb .png image. I've also tried inserting the pdf drawing, but that only inserts the file name. Any further suggestions gratefully received

Hi, I need to start a topic about window positions. I've read previous threads on the subject which don't fully answer my query. I will raise a topic in the Windows section of the site, but I will need to include a diagram for it to make sense - as I have seen in many other posts. Can someone please explain how to do it? I have the detail drawn in cad (Turbocad) and I have pdf'd it. When I start a topic I can see how to attach the pdf file, but not how to embed the diagram into my post.

Thanks Kelvin. I suspect I'll be going the same way. This will enable me to... Get started earlier Save a lot of cash Give myself a lot of work and headaches!

That's interesting Dave. So what do people do? Enter a contract based on an estimate rather than a quote? Knowing that the builder can increase his price at any time if he or his stubbies say that their costs have gone up?9 I understand there has to be trust, but surely there has to be protection as well.

Thanks big Jimbo, hard to disagree with what you say. I'd better get myself a PM hat. I'm concerned that good individual trades might be hard to find and might be hard to control/schedule. However I'm thinking that we could at least started much sooner rather than waiting a year or more for a good main contractor to become available.

Thanks Dave, defo won't be using an architect then! Do people on here always get a fixed price for a new build managed by a contractor?

Thanks Mark, I get that. But should I go lump sum, or is cost plus a good way forward?

Buildingregs4plans looks interesting and potentially useful - thanks Dave. But what I meant is...is there a section of this forum where I should post questions about contract issues when employing builders?

Thanks Dave.... interesting idea. I have thought long and hard about managing it all myself and employing separately a demolition contractor, a groundworker, a brickie, etc, etc. I have the time and probably the experience to do this, but what I don't have is the contacts with all the trades, or any influence to get them to work to my timescales. Hence the preference to find a builder to organise the whole lot.

I couldn't find an obvious section for this question - there doesn't seem to be a section on contract issues. My question is...what form of contract should I use to employ a builder? I always think that getting fixed price tenders means I'm likely to pay more, because builders will price in a "risk" element to cover any extra costs. Especially at the moment when they are all busy. One has told me they are only working on "cost plus", which in some ways seems fairer, but gives me no cost certainty. Any thoughts anyone? I should add that ideally I would want a general builder to look after demolition and construction up and including plastering, but leaving me to fit out the kitchen, utility and bathrooms, and do all decorating.

Our rebuild has very similar issues. However we specifically wanted to keep the bungalow as single storey living. So we are extending out at ground floor level and rather than in- filling we are constructing a store/plant room below, accessible only from outside (to avoid losing floor space to stairs).

Yes that makes a lot of sense.... But do we have the patience?!!

Well done, glad it all worked out for you. My biggest worry is finding the right builder - the ones I've spoken to so far are too busy!

Well, I think the builders at tender and build stage will need a detailed specification as well as drawings. As we have no architect on board I will be writing the spec. Templates are available on line which can be edited to suit a particular project which will save a lot of time and effort - if they are any good! Just wondering if anyone has used them.

Hi everyone. We just wanted to extend sideways and at the back a bit, plus change the front elevation to stonework and loose the bay windows, plus major internal alterations. Eventually realised it made more sense to re-build. We now have planning permission, so urgently drawing up detailed drawings for bdg regs and for tendering. No architect involved - all our own ideas and I am an engineer so can do structural calcs for bdg regs. Question: I'm considering buying a new-build specification template online, seems good value at £30. Has anyone else done this and found it useful?