Mungo

As you've already noticed the difference, it will only annoy you each time you look at it.

Agree with Conor in lowering the heating flow temp. We also live in a converted granary with as ASHP and UFH, and average around 6-8 kWh per day.

Cheers, Lofty. It's definitely a bad install, and had two more leaks over the weekend. Both pumps are set to speed three (max) and rads on the other two floors work fine. The pipes get hot, but mainly just the bottom manifold. There's a guy coming next week to change it around and fully bleed the UFH, and hopefully get it rectified. Also, noticed there's no isolation valves fitted on the ASHP unit, which will be done at same time. Flow temp is 48 deg and weather compensation is on, which I set a few weeks ago. Thanks for the reply and the advice. Cheers.

Looks decent enough pal. Will look to do ours next week.

Thanks Peter, Apparently, both pumps are located on the water tank upstairs - Joule cylinder with Samsung ASHP. Just a bit dubious with the installation as we've had three leaks, no isolation valves fitted to the ASHP unit and no lagging on the pipework running into the house. And, the manifold possibly connected arse about tit. We have someone independent coming to connect it correctly, flush the UFH and fit the isolation valves.

Cheers, Joey, The manifold was covered in plaster, so that's when I noticed there may be an issue. The bottom manifold gets warm first, and the top gets mildly warm afterwards, and sections of the floor don't get warm at all. Cheers.

We have similar on both floors with various size gaps. Looked into a product called Draught Ex, which does a pretty decent job.

Afternoon, first post to this site, but been lurking in the background for a few weeks. Just moved into a converted mill, and to me the plumbing is a bit suspect. (We've already had two leaks, which were apparently down to installation - lack of PTFE tape and one, and a leaking isolation valve. I've read on here that a few of the UFH manifolds have been fitted arse about tit - which after an independent inspection has confirmed this, with the lack of any readings on the flowmeters and the lower manifold with the actuators the only one that gets warm. We've had no joy with getting the developer to sort - 'we'll get someone to look at it next week' - so we're going to pay to get the manifold reversed and the system bled as there's sections of the floor that are not getting warm. My other concern is that the standard of plumbing is not the best, and I understand that there are guidelines for drilling through joists - distance, size... With the attached pic, do you think this is right, or am I looking too much into it? Nick, I tagged you in this as you're to the point and know your stuff along with many others on here. Cheers.

Damian, we had a similar problem with road noise, and also have acoustic laminate (Planitherm). I removed the vents and cut strips of acoustic foam - slightly thicker than the vents so they expand once in place - then taped over the opening with white tape and refitted the vents. The noise has reduced and if needed, the foam can be easily removed. It worked for us, especially as we had a few spare foam panels.