RedRhino

I digress, but on a previous project we needed a BT landline connecting from a pole to the new house. The BT bloke said he couldn't do the job because the scaffold was in the way of his ladder. I said the scaffold was much safer than a ladder, but no, he wouldn't use it.

We are required to supply scaffolding for our self build, both for the timber frame erector and for the subsequent trades. We know to use a reputable scaffold company and ensure that the Scafftag is in place to show that the scaffold is correctly assembled. But what about subsequent scaffold inspections? We have contractors keen to offer this service but the cost of weekly inspections could be as much as the scaffolding itself. We have received various comments but it seems weekly inspections are overkill (if that isn't a bad turn of phrase). Yes, if the scaffold received damage from a vehicle, or someone unqualified tried to modify it then the scaffold needs to checked. But even as a 'Domestic Client' we could do a weekly record of the condition of the scaffold recorded to video and I think that would be sufficient. What say others?

Thank you that link was v useful. My slips are 65mm so the article is directly relevant

I guess it makes sense to nudge the dimensions on a timber frame house so that there is an exact integer number of brick slips around windows / doors / corners etc. Can someone explain a bit more please. Is there an existing thread? Matching dimensions to whole bricks - is that a dark art or standard practise? Is it only realistic for heights or widths as well? Are brick slips that standard in manufacture? Are all bricks the same size? I can imagine a worst case scenario where we take a whole lot more time and effort but through tolerance stack up, instead of some fitting and some not, all the bricks are just out and need trimming. thanks

Timber frame costs are front of my mind as we are about to select our supplier. Here is my thought: Once the house is built no one can tell the specification of the build - what the U value of the walls is or how much insulation is in the floor. When you eventually sell the house the people buying it will probably know little and care less about U values, air tightness, cold bridging etc. Compared to other factors like location, view, parking; construction standards are down the list. If you broadly agree with the points above then my conclusion is that if you choose higher construction standards / cost then you are doing it for yourself and no one else. Saving money on construction costs buys an awful lot of energy when you can get 5% return on any cash saved / not spent. So for me I'm torn between 'buying the best' (e.g. MBC) and saving money and pocketing the difference.

Thank you. I don’t think I can edit or delete the original post. If admin can do that for me please. Next subject is selecting timber frame. I’ll be more circumspect!

Guys, it’s just my opinion as I see it. I can anonymise the architect names if it’s a problem. Only trying to be helpful. Admin, please let me know if I am breaking protocol. thanks andrew

There is only one time to get the design correct for your house and that is at the beginning. So many consequences are baked in from the early design work that (in my opinion) you would be crazy not to get professional help. Another maxim we have when investigating potential plots is talking to local people. We button hole anyone we find to solicit their opinion on the local area. And so it was on a visit to Lymington. As the Estate Agent walked me between two potential properties we walked past a sign for a local firm PM me if you want the details. "These guys do a lot of the architecture work around here". We knew we wanted a local architect because they understand local precedent. Once the Estate Agent had left I returned to the sign, called the mobile number and got speaking to Rob. Very kindly he offered to come out to the two plots there and then. An architect's knowledge of which plot has potential, and which should be avoided is so valuable. In 30 seconds Rob had orientated my thinking and I couldn't doubt his judgement. He's an expert! On a subsequent visit, Rob met with us and in about 1 hour he went through the potential of our plot from top to bottom, front to back. He was so quick with CAD, offering solutions, trying alternatives, considering previous precedents - all for free, incredible. But before we chose Kode Architecture we should really consider at least one other. Using google I selected our architect PM me if you want the details but his name is Ralph, only because Ralph seemed to have done a lot of small / single dwelling self-build developments. Ralph is a RIBA certified architecture. I asked Ralph to do a feasibility study (free) for our plot. Ralph's outline solution was so strong and innovative that it won him the deal. The cost of a RIBA architect is not small but we figured if ever there was a time to invest money it is now. I rang up Rob, made my apologies that he had come second. He was magnanimous and very gracious. Ralph's work on our application has been first rate and we are happy with our choice. And that is how we chose our architect.

We have managed to stay in our home for the majority of previous builds. This time we had to sell before we could buy the plot / donor house. So yesterday, we packed up from our 325 sqm house in Stroud, moved into a 114 sqm rental house, sold Stroud, purchased the plot and by coincidence the Planning Application was accepted by the District Council. A big day. https://planning.newforest.gov.uk/online-applications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=_NEWFO_DCAPR_221599 We have a mountain to climb, but already we can look back on some good progress. We have a plot, we have a design, we have planning submitted and we are some weeks into requesting Timber Frame quotes. Many priorities, but one near the top of the list is talking to the neighbours to see if they will comment positively on the planning application. As a courtesy I gave the drawings to the immediate neighbours before planning submission. Good neighbours are invaluable, especially for demolition and a replacement dwelling.

Yesterday we exchanged contracts on the purchase of a house in Lymington and on the same day we submitted a planning application to demolish the house and build a new house in its place. Probably Timber Frame, definitely to Passiv Haus standards (fabric first etc), 225 m^2, no fossil fuels but plenty of solar complemented by batteries. We have done this before with a TF house in 2009, a small development of brick and block houses in 2015/16, and an ICF house built into a hill in 2017. We hope for a simple, fast build with a high quality result. One thing we have learnt is to always be ahead of events and don't change your mind. Let's see

From my practical experience next time I will install some simple ventilation (air bricks / mushroom vents) so that there is a continuous movement of air through the garage. Condensing moisture is hard to spot (took us 7 years) because it can form out of sight on the coldest surface.

We are about to sell our ICF house after 7 years, ready to do our next self-build. Our buyer's surveyor noted that there was damp in the OSB ceiling (flat roof) of the garage and suggested there was rain water ingress caused by blocked gutters. We looked at the gutters and nothing was blocked. We had the roofer back (20 year guarantee) and he was adamant that it wasn't his felt roofing that had failed. Maybe the lead flashing? Maybe the corner where an ICF raised ledge meets the intersection of the garage with the house? After all the head scratching we realise the damp was caused by a lack of ventilation. The garage door seals shut and is kept shut unless we are outside. The door to the house is a fire door with tight seals. There is no air movement at all and with warm walls any moisture is finding the coldest surface, i.e. the ceiling. So that is my lesson for anyone building an ICF garage. You need to consider how the space will be ventilated.

Thank you. That looks like a common sense way of interpreting it. if common sense applies!

We have been guided by the government website: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/understanding-biodiversity-net-gain We read: Self-build and custom build applications An exemption applies to this type of development when it meets all the following conditions:   consists of no more than 9 dwellings on a site that has an area no larger than 0.5 hectares    consists exclusively of dwellings that are self-build or custom housebuilding as defined in section 1(A1) of the Self-build and Custom Housebuilding Act 2015 However, we now also read: 2 April 2024 Removed 'small developments' from the exemptions list as small developments are subject to BNG from 2 April 2024. So our single dwelling is a small development and BNG applies or we are Self build and BNG does not apply? Confused!

We are at the very beginning of our self build so roof sizes / elevations are still to be defined. Why not use the PV panels as an alternative to conventional roof tiles? I appreciate you would still need to tile the non generating roof elevations. The black effect of PV is not at all offensive to me and it could be a simpler, more elegant solution compared to in-roof panels. The size of the array is going to be determined by the size of the roof rather than the KwH we want to generate so could be excessive. But as I say, our roof sizes are yet to be determined so have some chance to influence sizing. comments gratefully received

Thanks for the comments - I agree with @JohnMo that you have to be careful diverting drinking water through anything unclean or that could corrode. FYI I measured the temp of the rising main as it enters our current house. It was 15c. I flushed the loo and it dropped to 10c. The rising main is in our 'tech room' with MVHR / water tanks / gas boiler / washing machine and clothes drying racks. The rising main is beaded with condensation but the room is vented via the MVHR so we have no other damp issues.

I envisage just using the domestic water feed as it enters the house with the option of it going through a heat exchanger (i.e a radiator). No extra water consumption. Every time someone flushes the loo or washes their hands more cold water is drawn out of the ground. How much colder would it make the pantry? Water has a very high thermal mass but I guess there is only one way to find out. Our current pantry is slightly cool in winter, not at all cool in summer. It can’t be worse than that.

Where does the water go? That is a good question. These thoughts are for our next build. Our current ICF house has a pantry on the north wall but it isn’t cold enough. I think the answer would be to have an MVHR extract duct in the pantry. We would have to have some air flow past the pantry door too.

What’s the difference between a large cupboard and a pantry? A pantry is cool, or at least it should be. Reducing refrigeration saves energy and many foodstuffs (e.g. butter, bread, ale) should be cool but not cold. However, Passivhaus requires a continuous airtight, thermal envelope. Nowhere is cool. Here is my idea: locate the rising main in the pantry and T off the supply to a radiator or similar. When extra cooling is required open up the reservoir to divert water at ground temp through the radiator. Simple, low tech and nothing too novel for the trades to scratch their heads over. Smart or is there something I haven’t considered?

"ASHP with UFH is the most expensive option (ours came in at about £9k for everything) but it's the cleanest and most versatile option. Especially if you have a decent solar PV array and you can effectively cool your house for free during the summer. Can't do that with a stove. " This is a good point. In summer PV generates an excess of energy and using it to cool the house is well, cool.

We were fortunate to be given a tour of this Passiv Haus build during its construction: https://www.passivhaustrust.org.uk/news/detail/?nId=1117 Lots of points of interest; for example no heating except an ornamental wood burning stove (in 550 m2) and towel radiators. We have friends about to buy a plot for self-build home. They are near retirement so the house will have high occupancy. What do folks think is best practise for heating and energy mgmt? Here is my view: Prioritise insulation of the total envelope and air tightness. MVHR is essential for air quality Orientation to the sun to get solar gain but with shading from high summer sun to reduce over heating Wood burning stove with external air feed for energy security / aesthetics Solar panels with provision for more if initial funds are limited - charging an electric car will be a continuous demand. Our 3.8 pKW panels heat our DHW for 2/3 of the year with Solar iBoost. Batteries? They will be cheaper in a few years. Heating? if demand is small I think I might forego gas and the associated standing charge, also the installation cost of boiler + wet ufh. Instead maybe just electric ufh on the ground floor. It's more expensive to run but cheap to install. Solar will offset some cost. In the depths of winter burn wood? I haven't said an ASHP. I just feel its a lot of cost and the efficiency is poor when you need it most. I can see the weakness in the above is winter DHW. If you need to run baths in winter that is a lot of electricity cost. I'd be grateful for opinions.

It would be great to see a picture of your self-build

In 2008 we were in Germany and admired the quality of their new-build houses. Why had they got no heating on, in sub-zero temperatures? And yet back in the UK we couldn't keep warm with the boiler and stove on full? That was the start of our first kick up the butt, to get on and build. We built a timber frame low energy house on the site of a 1950's bungalow in Rugby, Warks. Then a one acre site came up for sale with a single dwelling on. We knocked that down and built three brick and block low energy houses. Then 2014 we saw a plot in the Stroud valleys, close to the railway station, with a southerly aspect and couldn't not buy it. We built an ICF house and moved in 2017 and here we are. We always install MVHR, best air-tightness, best insulation - Passiv Haus principles but without the certification. Still we itch for another project and so here we are . . .