zoothorn

Hi there dpm, no nasty catching on latch bits thankfully. Only at the door plastic at the bottom, clashing on the steel rim of the cill. I understand this -does suggest innitially- that the door's simply gone out of kilter & drooped a tad on the lockside. But you see the house's upvc door & windows, along with 2 extensions, are clearly not a pro job. A decent-effort amateur job, yes. But an awful lot of sub par (even to my amateur stds). Eg WC timber doorframe badly not vertical so the door just closes irritatingly whenever you open it/ EG white silcone to fit the last window trim bits looks like a child's done it! So my hunch is, the chaps's just not hung the upvc front door very well ~20 yrs ago. Thanks Zoot.

Hi rick, that seems complete sense to me. Which I've just done.. & both measure 79-1/8". Hmm. So although I understand the idea of the toe & heel fine, this does kinda confirms my hunch that it possibly isn't the tweak I need to do. I don't want to 'stretch' the door 'wrong' just to solve the issue: that doesn't seem too sensible an approach.. unless.. I can 1st confirm door has sunk down on -just- the lock side. I think it's surely safer to at least -try- the hinge adjustment method.. if I can find a way to access the tweak-screw that is. Four hinges isn't gonna make the job easy tho. Why even diddy jobs seem turn into a building mind-meld for me?! Argh! 🙂

@ProDave Better sketch: the tilt is exaggerated yes, but this is still what everything tells me, is the basic situation I have. IE. If A is 5mm less than B, & C is also less than D.. doesn't that tell me that the door is square, & the whole thing just needs levelling.. rather than trying to 'reform' the door shape via the toe & heel idea-?

Hi ProDave, yes I realised the hinges I drew weren't right.. but still the door as a tilted [yet still square] rectangle which just needs the whole thing repositioning level (ie the whole thing) idea is effectively shown in my scribble. You see this is simply what I see, by standing back & looking at it. I don't see any odd corner angles: my cabin hut door.. yes has your one-side droop badly & very obvious standing back. If I were to adjust the hinges, say if there were obvious allen bolts I could get to, the hinges would -still- stay in the exact place they are in a vertical line.. just the door rectangle will change, from a slightly tilted one (which -is- simply what my eyes see, & blue markers confirm) to a level one. So I'm still not entirely sure if it's a hinge adjustment, or this strange toe & heel idea, because I don't have a huge square to tell me if the door is fractionally a trapezoid, or whatever the term is to describe an oblique rectangle. Continually puzzled.. zh

Hi Rick, thanks for that- it's exactly this simplification that I kinda need (unlike you all- building xyz is tricky to get the innitial gist of I find.. but once I do, it's downhill). Aha, so the door "frame" that being the actual outer section of the door, has become out of shape. I can't see how that is, as it looks square, no tiny gaps in the plastic corners telling me so, & the glass within square relative to it too, & don't have a huge square to put on to tell. I have looked at toe & heel videos now though. But what I can't understand is how levering the gap above the glass bigger, to fit in packers to lift the top of the door up a bit, doesn't just as much push the glass down. And how the glass seems to magically stay perfectly in place, & just the door outer "frame" part of it moves up. But understand the principle that however this magic trick actually works, this is the method I need to do, to solve my clash issue. I just always like to understand it first: invariably this takes me a heck of alot of time. Thanks, zh

This is exaggerated obviously, but it shows the principle:

Hi Big J, I really can't afford £100 to fix this- it's a diy tweak, or it's left as it is. Yes I'm sure I posted some pics of my workshop? Benches/ worktops made, cheapo placcy tool wall hanger things. It's great (remarkably cool in the recent heat, & reasonably 'warm feeling' in the winter without CH used too). Only trouble is, as soon a it was completed, my workshop work has dried up. Urgh.

@ProDave Apologies but I'm not understanding. I think my description &/ or my photo above didn't show what I intended. Ok in this photo below, I have two blue markers. On the L one you may be able to see I've written 60mm, this is the height distance between the top of the door here & -let's call the following bit horizontal- the timber rail thing above the door. On the R blue marker, I've written on it 70mm. The Height from door here, to timber rail thing above. I've also made this one physically a taller blue rectangle for clarity. Also I hope, you can actually see an angle discrepancy between the timber bit above the door (again let's call this horizontal) & the top of the door: the door dips down Rightwards, compared to the fixed timber bit above. So, clearly with 10mm difference L to R, the door frame, is simply in need of adjusting to horizontal. I don't understand how repositioning the glass section (which I know how these fit in/ done this job on my windows) within will make the door frame's position around it, any different.

@ProDave Two blue squares top of door. LH one is 60mm high. RH one is 70mm high. Door dips down twds R.. hopefully my photo also shows the slant R, relative to the frame:

Hi ProDave, yes. But just raising the whole door up vertically, will cure the problem but still mean the door is on slant (horizontally). So surely I just need to make it horizontal, IE raising -just- the handle-side of the door up (not the whole door) in order to avoid my door clash at the sill. The clash is on the handle-side, the sill below. The hinge side is the correct 5mm gap. So my door has fallen down twds the handle side.

Hi there GW, grateful for that. Gets me a bit closer, but I'm still not seeing how. On page 9 it shows a similar looking hinge, & the 'vertical' adjustment is similar it seems via the same spanner screw.. but crucially not for 'horizontal' adjustment, which is what I need (door handle side's just dropped down 5mm). Here's a corner pic of hinge/ so I've opened the door, & taken photo standing on the outside doomat. And a closer photo from the inside, with door closed: no adjustment screw visible here.

Hi nod, thanks for that. Ok I will tentatively poke the big white section from the exterior & see if it pops off or something. I see tiny small 2mm allen head bolts, but not on the location that the single larger 5mm or 6mm adjustment allen bolt seems to be on say flag hinges. Ideal if anyone has done it on this type of hinge. Thanks zH

Hi chaps, I need to adjust my front door which sticks at the btm frame, but have unusual looking door hinges. I've seen YouTube clips of flag hinges, & their adjustments.. but nothing on my type. Also I have 4x too which also seems a bit unusual! Any ideas? Thanks if so. Zoot.

Hi chaps, One of my old folks' newish upvc windows (the only one opening forwards, at the bottom) won't close. I can see the metal mech on the underside of window, clashes with the frame's metal recess sections (pic 2: pink arrows show A to B clash). So effectively, the window just needs to be 'shoved up a bit' just say 5mm to gain the clearance again IMO. Worked fine before, but, I did notice it was always tight fit to close this window. Any idea if this is a job one can do, as opposed to getting a pro in? Looked on YouTube but can't see the exact fwd btm opening similar type window. Pics added. Thanks for any help, Zoothorn

Aha! Crikey I was confused before.. Ok status is Im waiting for reply from my head office nice woman. Have put the different mfr buffer idea, tentatively to her. I'll mention Grant. Grateful to y'all, Zoot

I think Ive been getting confused with my grant, & Grant too.. which I must now think, is a mfr? Thanks Zh

Hi chaps, hugely grateful for these recent replies. I've put the Q to my nice Vaillant woman, of possibly a slimmer but taller buffer (1200x300? I asked if they did one?).. or.. my very last gasp idea to put her way, of using a different mfr buffer. Which if this above fails, I'll ask. If the installer kicks up a fuss & refuses another mfr's buffer, then Im stuffed. Back to square 1. Thanks, Zoot

Hi Hugh. Hugely grateful for this. Even on page 2, with the diagram, my head still aches trying to understand the basics though (eg it suggests indoors, a fan moves the compressed [water or air?] around.. & my head hits a brick wall). A fridge, in my world & most people's too, isn't some super-simple device like an oven is fir example. It's next-level design. Personally I think it needs a prior-level explanation, for people who haven't studied engineering frankly: likely 95% of customers. Nevertheless I might be able to brave the buffer/ extra heat sutuation page. But I don't expect to understand that either.

Bravo. Thanks alot for this pinpoint post. I'll even email this example to my nice woman @ Vaillant. Zh

@PeterW is the ARotherm plus 10kw, a 'monoblock'? I couldn't quite understand the significance of your mentioning water outside bit.. but my eyes lit up with the higher flow temp. Maybe, just maybe they chose this partly because I had mentioned even in my new build rooms, it was impossible to get them warm, using my current 'split' system, unless I ramped up the flow temp (+ some other upping of a level to max) which THEY themselves told me how to do as a niggle I had -paling into insignificance vs my overnight cupboard noise- which was a frustration at the ashp rad performance. This performance niggle, I hear on phone moan-ins even on radio4. So many people think as I do, their performance is nigh on hopeless. UNLESS of course, you have a super-scandi-built-home (my term) to contain the paltry heat emitted. Most UK homes don't fit this category, so this whole ashp venture/ shift IMHO, is so poorly thought out, & also hoodwinking UK customers (even ones grateful to get one via a grant, despite a protracted intrusive noise "battle" with a mfr..) that they're a good idea for their home. The cost now to run them too, apparently, is huge too: 50% of the moan-in calls I hear on R4 are this. Thanks. I'll email my nice woman @Vaillant whose reinstated the offer to me (we agree we're both stuck at this buffer 'hurdle' is the situation) if the monoblock is this one you refer to. Thanks, Zoot

I'll need a day to comprehend just these last two paragraphs. They just read double-dutch to me. Read these 3x now, yet still cannot understand the relationship between an additional heater & a tank. I judt don't think Im going to get it ProDave, even if you used stop motion stuffed animals, lego buffer whatnots, & fully slowed it down for the fully retarded. Thanks, Zoot

THIS much, ProDave, I do know... because it is the very source of my woes/ my battle with Vaillant/ because the unit that houses the pump to drive the water around during this satanic 11pm-7.30am frost cycle... was placed.. 1.5m away from a bed, & which was so loud & contiuous, it disturbed sleep in the adjacent bedroom & heard clearly in every corner of the house. THIS is the same cycle, which luckily with your different mfr unit, you are nothing whatsoever similarly disturbed by. Because. Yours isn't faulty. Mine is/ was. Zh

@AliG why is there 105 litres of water discrepency, between a system that has a heater, to one that hasn't? I cannot equate a huge volume of water, to a heater. The two things seem alien ti each other. But you say they're inter-dependent. I have absolutely no idea what this additional heater's design principle is. Additional? Surely if there's some water in a CH system, it is heated by a heater. What on god's earth then, is all this about an --extra-- heater, sometimes there but sometimes not ?? And how does this bizarre extra heater thing, relate to a huge fridge sized vessel to hold water? It's like someone saying a car 'oh well if it has an extra combustion engine, you need to tow a trailer on the back'. I'm sorry what did you just say, I have a what & so I need a what??? Two totally unrelatable things, but somehow inherrantly dependent on each other. It doesn't compute. With these pathetic sniping posts in between trying to read your info.. I honestly cannot cope anymore. Appreciated. Zoot

AliG. I've just tried, three times, to read your post here.. to make sense of it.. in order to ask what you suggest. I haven't got a clue how to even understand this. If I were to read out your post, to them for example, the answer... would be incomprehensible. I could conceivably only record it on a dictaphone/ type it out in a post here. But that is getting ludicrous. The backuo heater. Its like an alien being I have no conception of what it is, where it is, now, or in the future, whether inside another unit, attatched to it.. Im this stumped, just by twi words: backup heater. Its just far too complicated. To you it's simple. To me it makes my head ache trying to think what X could possibly mean, look like, be. I just can't cope, apologies. Im absolutely exhausted. Zh

Hi GW. Well this is one angle I hadn't thought of. Great. That being asking the if I can pay, for an entirely different mfr buffer, of the same size they insist.. & go shopping for a slimmer one. And go around here evaluating where the heck this could go. At least if slimmer, I can possibly find one spot without ruining my cottage. Cant be the cupboard as its likely not tall enough. But they'll counter this saying they cannot fit other mfr's equipment, or your guarantee is shot doing so, or simply their fitter says no.