Redbeard
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Thanks for this. No PP a/c at present. Will look at getting one. It accepted my details 'in English', but then when I moved to (card) payment it reverted to German.
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I'd still encourage pressure on the developer, though I note that you said at the start of the thread that he was not particularly 'forthcoming'.
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Do you like the Albert Hall? Small 'mushrooms'? More seriously I think previous posters are right that 'softening' is the most important bit.
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I wonder if someone who has used this firm could advise. Unfortunately I speak no German. There is a 'translate' tab, but it seems to disappear (with no obvious way of getting it to reappear) when I get near paying, so I don't know what to click on to pay... Thanks in anticipation of your help.
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Was there anything in your purchase 'stuff' which states an air-tightness test result. If not, ask the developer what is was. It may cost around £400 to get a basic A/T test which will give you a 'number' (in m3/m2/hr or air-changes per hour), or a fair bit more to get A/T and thermography at the same time. De-pressurise the house with the fan on a day when you can get a +10 degree C diff between inside and outside temp, and you get an IR 'pic' of the leaks. If the discrepancy between the developer's stated no. and yours is significant, ask awkward Qs.
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BC and Planning are separate, so if the amendments you made via Planning are 'material' (my use of the word, not 'Material'), and have an effect on the B.Regs elements (The cladding changes from 12.5mm cement board and render to 100mm wood-fibre and render, say) then that would have an effect on the B. Regs side of things (Part L in this case, but feasibly another Part if the cement board acted as an anti-racking board and the WF didn't) then maybe you need a discussion with your BC body, but as you say, that's a private firm, not the council. So, as far as I am aware, No, your chosen BC body will do that. Note my background is all in refurb, not new-build in terms of direct dealings with BC, but I cannot see LA BC being interested in specifics of a build being 'policed' by A.N.Other BC.
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@sgt_woulds I appreciate the 'pulling up', and I usually recommend WUFI to my clients anyway, as each case is different, but my suggestion not to have a membrane was not without (WUFI'd) precedent, from a refurb we did on a cement-based pebble-dashed 19th C house 8 or 9 years ago in Yorkshire (micro-climates vary!!). Nevertheless you are right that WUFI is advisable in the vast majority of IWI cases (in my vie whatever material you are using), especially if you use a merchant who offers it free anyway. My own preference, when I was contracting, was to aim for 100mm WF (c0.35W/m2K on a 225 solid brick wall - no so far from the Part L 0.3 target) and then use WUFI to tell me it's safe or not. A general note - If you don't find merchant offering WUFI then independent 'WUFI-wranglers' are a bit few and far-between. I have been told of one, though I am not sure on Buildhub's advertising rules. *Mods,( @Nickfromwales, are you a mod - I think so. Sorry if I am wrong) can you confirm it's OK to give the name*? I can't see why not. Edit: I see I did give the advice to use WUFI in my post on Monday at 20.35. I read @sgt_woulds's post as if I hadn't, and was surprised at myself! If framing I agree with your use of Intello and have used a great deal of it, not least in my own house.
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Well, it involves bits of bent metal, so it's 'after my own heart'. I'll have a closer look later.
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Many would say so. I say not, as the VCL is there on each sheet, but not at the joint. You go on to say 'Traditionally', nothing, which is why I prefer working with insulation only (say foil-faced PIR), taping the foil face , then battening and hten boarding. However a few people have started to use 'fluff tapes' like Contega or Pavafix Win, over which you can plaster, so that would work, although strictly that 'bit' of the VCL is not in quite the 'right' place. I think you can get a 'tighter' VCL if you use bare boards and separate plasterbds. I rarely use foil tape - it's too variable. I prefer to use Pro Clima or similar air-tightness tapes.
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What renderboard had you planned previously? Does it have to change? Do you want to get more insulation? You could use wood-fibre board (lambda somewhere 0.039-0.044W/mK). I used Baumit Silikon Top. It comes in varying grit-sizes, from really gritty to almost smooth.
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OK, try again! I cannot see how wide your butt joints are, but could you have it galvanised with one end flat and the other rising and curling over the curved section of the next tile. But how does one stop water running down the strap? And again...! Brackets shaped to sit over the ridge with 'wings' rising up the triangular edges of the ridge tile to 'hug' them - maybe 2 per tile, and somehow with some 'spring' to the 'wings'.
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Oh bu--er! I have just looked at your pic again. I was thinking of bog-standard Victorian terrace ones like mine, where each one has a 'hood' which overlaps the next. That won't work with your plain-ended tiles. Will see what else I can think of.
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Converting a drystone wall to a mortared wall
Redbeard replied to sb1202's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
I think in a straight fight between your mortared wall and a combine I know which I'd bet on 😉but it may help against the sheep. Sad, though., It looks the business. -
Hmmm... a) I share your pain! b) Maybe there is (though I am not certain for refurb) due to the feeling that mortar and gravity are not going to hold your ridges forever. I wonder if you could satisfy them if you did some clever metal strap-wrangling so that you could trap down each 'plain' end below the 'oversail' of the next. If you used, say 3mm steel and worked it hot (or got a fabricator to do so - all they need is your sketch and dimensions) this could work. But it would have to 'work' for roofer and BCO. If I had such lovely ridges I would be happy to finish that myself if BCO would accept it.
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The lack of a completion cert suggests it has not been signed off! (Surely). I always received completion certs for my jobs. The heading says 'Date of Completion Cert (If issued)' and the comment is N/A. I would read that as 'It is not applicable because there is no date, because there is no completion cert', but I see that in this case they use it as 'not available'. Either way I don't think that helps you, as it could be 'not available' 'cause they lost it, or because there never was one. Of course I could be wrong....
