HughF

Can anyone advise on LG part numbers for the LG wall controller? This is to fit a 7kW therma-v. helping my mate commission his unit that came ex-display with the controller missing. LG have been particularly useless on the phone/email so far.

It’s what I would do, but I need to convince the owner. On site Wednesday so we’ll see what happens.

I'm pretty confident this can be run open loop as it's 5 rads on 22mm with 15mm drops. Don't think there will be a flow issue.

I'm tempted to re-wire and re-plumb the thing, but it's not my unit and not at my house... I'd go single pump, 3 port (already there and working fine), buffer as a volumiser... only needs a couple of pipe changes and the 2 port and secondary pump removing.

I suspected that. I wonder if my issues are that the worldheat is wired to require an external stat to switch the zone valve and pump on, but I'm telling it to use the room controller as the stat...

Are you using the samsung controller as the room stat?

Still live here, anywhere nice? If it's that site in East Stoke with the bungalow and the barn, I'd like the rayburn that's in there before you scrap it 😀

Zone valve is on 10 & 11, secondary pump is wago'd to orange... permanent live picked up off 20

That’s for a joule, with their own pcb. This is a pre-plumbed unit from world heat. The three port is working fine, and the zone valve is wired across the ‘zone valve1’ output (I forget exactly which terminal numbers it is on the Samsung MIM).

Good evening forum collective... I've spent the day assisting my builder commission his Samsung gen6 with a pre-plumbed worldheat cylinder and we've got a few issues. We've decided to use the Samsung controller as the room thermostat, so we've configured the field settings values per the midsummer quick start guide to enable that. I've setup the weather comp/water law and I've set the DHW schedule and temperature. It does a DHW charge just fine, but I cannot get it to switch over to heating. The issue is that the worldheat cylinder includes a integrated buffer, along with associated secondary pump and 2 port zone valve. I cannot for the life of me get the Samsung to switch the zone valve (and the pump, wired across the zone valve aux contacts) on when calling for central heating. I can get it to run the zone valve when I go into self-test and manually drive it, but here's the weird thing; when I activate it to on, the contacts on the aux switch close between white and orange, implying that the valve is powering off when I activate it. White being the NC contact to orange. I did not have my tester or multimeter with me today to verify whats actually occuring. I should add that it did run the zone valve and pump when it was asked to do a DHW charge. So, the issue can be resolved in 2 ways: remove the zone valve and secondary pump, re-plumb the buffer as a volumiser and just leave the primary pump and 3 port to do what's required (my preference, for simplicity and efficiency), or try and get the Samsung controller to actively drive the zone valve when required. Does anyone have any experience with using a samsung MIM to drive a zone valve or are you all running direct?

The hvac world uses imperial sized pipe. And you need to use self fluxing copper phosphorus brazing rods. R290 runs around 400psi. I pressure test to 400 with inert gas then vac down. Linesets can be sourced from AliExpress/amazon/teemu as this stuff is globally standard.

These don’t fall under the gas-safe regs either, despite what the gas-safe bods will tell you. Fill volume is something like 600grams of r290, that’s less than a camping stove cylinder. The r290 regs call for no flare fittings inside the property, hence why the line set off the back of the indoor head is 2m long. I don’t flare anyway, they always leak. Expand and braze with a purge flowing.

If you tell appliances direct that you’ll be using a local installer when you order it, you can put in an f-gas filled one too. Your choice.

That was a mistaken assumption on my part. Turns out there was gas in it, I just couldn’t get anything on the gauges till I powered it up. Not uncommon according to r/hvac Working perfectly, although a little noisy being bolted to wall of the house. I’ll extend the lines and drop it down onto the ground.

The new ideal unit is supposed to be amazing - Graham Hendra really rates it, and he’s installed and used pretty much everything on the market over the last 15-18yrs or so.

Darn it, pressure tested it, pulled it down to 500 microns, went to float the low side gauge to 20 psi (like I always do with these, fitted a few now) and the damn thing ain’t got no gas in it 😂

Time for another one to heat the upstairs….

I've grown up with Rayburns, and still have one in my off grid property. I'm looking at possibly replacing it because I'd like something with a larger firebox. Apart from a Rayburn supreme/355, which although having a large firebox is not an ideal unit because it's right hand oven only, what are my options? I need a grate as I burn a mixture of coal and wood. I don't need a back boiler anymore as I'm moving to a EAHP cylinder for my hot water, and I don't have any central heating radiators to run. I've spent some time in Austria and see the solid fuel cookers they have, something european might be worth consideration?

Burn that coal….. don’t want to leave any for the next generation…

If I had my way, I’d take the chimney down to open up the loft and block the chimneys up, but wife is insistent - ‘you had your way on the heat pump vs combi argument, you’re not winning this one’. Two solid fuel (we’ll never run them on wood, if I’m going to buy fuel, I’ll buy smokeless ovoids) stoves it is, unfortunately.

DIY is fine with BC eh, interesting. I haven’t found a hetas guy I trust yet. The local one who has done a few in our area didn’t fill me with confidence when he casually suggested he didn’t need to measure up for a register plate and would just cut something on site and fix it with silicon.

Roof, including chimney stack, is being scaffolded for flashing repairs and I want to make the most of the scaffolding, so I’m planning on getting my hetas guy to drop the liners at that point. 4 chimney pots on the top - each fireplace had a separate run up the chimney. I will have two liners installed, one per appliance. I cannot drill through the hearth and access the floor void so the external air supply will have to draw from the room. Unless, as I said earlier, I can draw from outside using a concentric flue liner, if such a thing exists.

As I think it is unrealistic to core down through the hearth retrospectively and get a duct into the floor void, I think we’ll have to settle for a grill/grating in front of the hearth. It’s a real shame a concentric flue liner system isn’t an option.

Or no foam in my case. 1” gaps all round, covered with trims.

Fensa install at my Somerset house…. Bunch of cowboys the lot of them.