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Lift span

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Everything posted by Lift span

  1. Lift span
    They can fix into the compacfoam. They've been around and surveyed it already. It's solid stuff!
  2. Lift span
    Just to update this, I went with the Compacfoam in the end. In the jambs and overhead (see picture below). I've wrapped DPC around the jambs so you can't see it! I'm now deciding what to use under the threshold to sit the doors on. I was thinking of compacfoam again but I found out about Bosig Phonotherm 200. Has anyone used it? It seems similar to compacfoam but it's available in bigger wider sheets:
  3. Lift span
    Thanks nod and Temp. I'm in no rush so would appreciate the pictures. Thanks again.
  4. Lift span
    What's the best way of finishing off this lead detail? I've done a lean to extension with a slate roof and fitted the lead flashing. Youtube as failed me though as I can't find a way of finishing the lead at the end: Do I cut it, bash it, wrap it? Any ideas?
  5. Lift span
    I'm just looking at this myself. The only written guidance I can see is the NHBC you mention. I've seen Robin Clevett use 100x47mm on some of his videos. I'm bolting my wall plate to steel so I don't have the blockwork strength issue Iceverge mentions, but I take the point on pull out strength.
  6. Lift span
    Thanks. Did you fix into steel, block or timber at the jambs?
  7. Lift span
    This seems to be a recurring problem for which there is no optimum solution, that I've found anyway. Especially, if you are trying to avoid cold bridging. One solution would be to infill your cavity with concrete and block (in your last picture) and then fix Compacfoam on top. That comes in various depths including 50mm which is close to your 47mm. There is a discussion here: http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16054
  8. Lift span
    I'd not thought of fixing clips! Maybe that is an option. The window supplier is saying they need fixings straight through the frame though.
  9. Lift span
    Hello! I'm looking at two options for closing the vertical (jamb) and overhead cavity in the extension design below: Timber or Compacfoam 200. Has anyone any experience of doing either? The triple track sliding door frame is over 180mm wide and needs fixing all round so a standard cavity closer won't work. The timber is cheap and easy and I was thinking of wrapping it in DPC to avoid rot from condensation in the cavity. Compacfoam is expensive and I have no experience of using it. Timber Vertical: Overhead: (Angle Lintel is a separate galvanised section): Compacfoam 200:
  10. Lift span
    I hadn't thought about doing the outer in thermolite. I'm doing a sand and cement render on the outside and assumed the lightweight blocks wouldn't work but it seems you can! Yes, so certainly above DPC but I may well do below that thanks.
  11. Lift span
    Header:
  12. Lift span
    Apparently, timber in the cavity is a no go so the answer is to use the structural foam instead. I'm thinking I should still have 4x2 timber on the face of the steel as shown below. Anyone done this? Same for the header:
  13. Lift span
    Also, what about the side jambs? In the video they just return the blockwork to close the cavity whilst in the detail below they use compacfoam: I have a vertical steel so I was thinking of just using a 50x200 timber fixed to the steel, with DPC against the outer blockwork. I asked the manufacturer if they would fix into timber and they said yes. Any thoughts?
  14. Lift span
    Looks like a great product thanks. I've had a search but I can't see if that can be screwed into?
  15. Lift span
    Thanks for the reply Russell. Here is a video from one manufacturer (same as in the detail pictures above). In the video they show fixing in the bottom:
  16. Lift span
    Will the Kingspan 500 take a screw fixing?
  17. Lift span
    Thanks Temp. They want a concrete fill in the cavity because I think they fix into that. I'm thinking all insulation is redundant in those pictures apart from that perimeter insulation and the insulation below the screed (aluminium track).
  18. Lift span
    Yes, it's a cavity wall, to be filled with lean mix. Here is another view with the external wall removed (it's on sloping ground hence the design).
  19. Lift span
    Thanks for the reply That bit of compactfoam looks redundant to me. If I just fill the cavity with concrete, how do I stop/avoid thermal bridging?
  20. Lift span
    I've looked at previous threads and the answer seems to be use Compacfoam. However, I'm not building a Passive House and I'm looking at alternatives, The steel sway frame is shown below: I've shown the block and beam almost spanning the cavity. Then I thought of using thermalite coarsing blocks along the floor to get the correct level. Then adding timber on the vertical reveals fixed to the steel as a cavity closer (with vertical DPC). Would that work?
  21. Lift span
    Hello, I'm self building an extension and I'd like help! First question: How do a get a level threshold and avoid thermal bridging with triple track sliding doors on a block and beam floor with a steel sway frame? A manufacturer has sent me this: But, none of those details match my own. I have Building Regs Approval (with Engineers calcs done) to build this: I've started "building" it in Sketchup:
  22. Lift span
    Time for an update! Here is how it looks now. Just the lower wall to finish off on the left hand side. Apart from the roof tiling, all DIY by myself and the Mrs. Before:
  23. Lift span
    @Bitpipe Some progress. We are having the new Slate tiles done next week. We are about to press go on the window order. However, we drove past a house with light grey windows. We love it! Do you have any pictures of your place with the Basalt grey.
  24. Lift span
    Hi, I had to get planning permission for our front extension as it was beyond the front building line. The planning officer suggested squaring off the existing bay window ... good idea said I! However, that was amendment to the existing approved application so I had to pay £35 to get this amendment through. Things work very slowly in the planning world. I had no idea a minor amendment could take two months to pass; and it was his idea! Now with 18mm ply (heavy!) added: Thanks Mr Punter! I did wonder about adding more resin fixings at the brackets. I’ve only gone into the outer skin with with existing fixings. However, my main concern has been the turning moment from the whole structure pulling the whole wall away from the house. I’ve mitigated this by fixing the upper part of the frame to the roof rafters. I’ve added extra 4x2 timbers to make a triangle with the hypotenuse formed by the rafters. It seems pretty solid ...I’ve been hanging off it most of the afternoon!
  25. Lift span
    Here you go... Timberlok and resin anchor heaven! Even though I’ve tied it into the rafters, I’m wondering how much weight a cavity wall can take. I may well end up with some steel supports below. Brackets are 60mm box section; 24hr turnaround from a chap up the road!
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