Rishard

We often over size the ‘height’ which allows for some adjustment up the roof to work with your roof tiling/flashing kit. Once the window is fitted the opening should have a plumb piece of plasterboard running into the low side of the velux and a horizontal plasterboard to the head. This allows air to flow in and then out of the velux reveal. All standard practice and outlined in the fitting instructions. The rough framing is always better left taller on height to allow for this. Hope this helps. Width is usually 40mm oversized for perimeter insulation depending on supplier.

@saveasteading love the look of this roof. Who did you use for supply of the panels? Also, what make up did you use below it? Cheers

+1 to external glazing. I’ve built several oak frames this way. It’s a bit of a hybrid as the cover boards which sandwich the glass to the oak frame are separate pieces of oak which on a traditional ‘oak frame’ is a bit false but I’ve not seen a better system out there. If the cover boards are rough sawn then it looks best. We use expanding foam tapes to seal the frame to the glass and glass to the cover boards. These are weatherproof and adjust with the shrinkage of the oak. Oak frames are harder to airtightness seal and have some fairly substantial thermal bridges but it can be done. Oakwrights system is good.

Resurrecting this thread. I’ve had a price from vartryengineering. It was quoted a while ago but came in at €1.33 each. Did anyone find a cost effective alternative at all?

Where did you decide to tie your UFH pipes in the end?

That’s helpful information. Ideally the guest shower room would have wet room plumbing for the shower. I still need to look in to how to achieve this. Is it just w/c’s that want a direct route to IC? Are basin wastes ok going into a Y in a pipe run? Same with kitchen sink, can that be in the run that connects to the stack which runs upstairs? Swept bend at base of the stack joining a Y coming from kitchen sink to IC?

I forgot to mention, I’m using pozi joists for this build. Which have a 200mm clear space between the cords which I can as planing on using to service the master en-suite. The w/c would have a basin, just not on the plan. Could the guest shower room not link to the drain run coming from the w/c? I have plenty of fall to the main drain so can set my bends very low below the slab if it helps. I don’t like the idea of drilling holes through the wall to connect up externally. Ideally most should come up through the slab.

I’m just about to set out some of my 110mm soil pipes. On the architects plans we have picked the shortest route to the outside of the building which seems sensible. I have a kitchen waste at the rear of the build which on plan is going around the outside of the house to join the other soil pipes. My first question is, Would it make sense to try come through the building to join the other soil pipes as a more direct route? Or is this a plumbing no no for some reason? My second question is, The 2 soil pipes which are in the utility and wc/shower room. I’m imagining a swept bend coming up to a vertical pipe through the slab. Is this the point where all the shower room and w/c connections are made or should I have 1 for the w/c and 1 for the shower room as they are separate rooms? Which of these pipes needs a rodding eye if any? I gather the stack which runs up the utility to upstairs will be ok to have an AAV in an accessible place, is this correct? Thanks in advance I have attached floor plans and foundation plans.

Great, so it is 100w used per hour to achieve the desired temperature. It’s good to clarify. When you put it together as 2.4kWh over a 24 hour period it becomes more of a worth while saving. Apologies for my basic understanding, I’m getting there. Believe it or not I have had phpp done for my house. 1. He did explain a good amount with me but I wouldn’t know how to work out how many cold days a year from it…. 2. current electricity 0.30 kWh 3. 20 years + 4. Not till it’s built but probably not much longer. I do care about its performance over its lifespan. This will be my family home so will have to live with the decisions…

Is this a 100w difference in heating per hour? I’m costing out insulation to fill the cavity, it’s a similar cost to concrete by volume. Obviously I don’t want to fill with concrete but I’m trying to grasp where the cost savings sit. Say I add 50mm pir to the inner face, that’s £400. Again, not going to break the bank but the question is, will it save me money in the long term?

Returning to this one, am I right in thinking xps insulation for the cavity is better than eps? The green building store said the xps held its insulating properties when in wetter environments. I’m hoping mine won’t be getting wet but it’s worth hearing other opinions.

Joes detail which is taken from the golcar house has a dpm wrapped around the top block to try avoid it being ‘wet’ as you describe.

My perimeter is 50m so assume it’s closer to what iceverge suggested. Although I’m not the best at working these things out…. Yet

It’s very helpful to see the small increments in improvement and its relative impact on the watts. If I use 60m of insulating blocks for 2 courses it still comes in at under half the cost of the marmox blocks. Would the £600 difference pay itself off in energy saved? If not then I may be happy with using detail 4 and move on to other decisions.

So if this detail fails SAP then it only leaves marmox blocks right? Does this mean everyone is going to be doing this detail?