JohnBishop

Hi All, I hope you are well in 2025. I have to start planning for the decking. What would you recommend? Go for standard raised deck or paving slabs, EUR pallets and decking boards?

This Rust-Oleum galvanizing paint looks like is drying in minutes. Do you know how much time between coats? I don't see it on the can. On the website it says "To handle after 3 hours (at 20C)" so I would say 4h? So far I painted all the bases and some items that rust and this does the job. The paint is pretty thick, dries quickly and leaves some exposed bits but it even protects those nearby areas like a rust repellent of some sort - I think this is this cathodic protection at play. Without this stuff on the rust will pop up in some places even on stainless steel.

Thanks for the link. The empty tank is on top of the full one.

Hi, Please can you advise on a water pump to pump rainwater from one IBC tank to the other. I have filled up one and now want to transfer water from the bottom tank to the top tank. I know there are these immersion pumps like this one https://www.kaercher.com/uk/home-garden/drainage-pumps/sp-16-000-dual-16458330.html?utm_source=google-feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=16458330&utm_name=SP 16.000 Dual&cid=ps_ggl_pmax_categ&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8ome3qHwigMVFZiDBx1iQxRrEAQYAyABEgIHIPD_BwE but I won't be able to insert one from the top so it must be some inline water pump. I have looked up and found this one https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-12v-Water-Pressure-Pump/dp/B01CPIHFSY What do you think? Thanks

How long screws should I use to attach the rafters? The rafter (birds mouth bit) is about 8.5cm thick. The timber is about 4.7cm wide. Should I use 18cm long screws that are 6mm of diameter? What drill size should I use for pre-drilling 5mm?

what screws do you think I should use to attach these plastic flashings to the insulated wall? https://www.plasticbuildingsupplies.com/polycarbonate-roofing-sheet/ez-glaze-accessories-ez-glaze-wall-connector-2m-ezglazew-conn2m

I have cut the timber and I am in the process of staining it but it takes awful amount of time to dry. Do you think I should leave a gap between the insulated wall I mean that brittle plaster and the timber? The structure is pretty strong but I wonder in strong winds is it going to start slamming the wall. On top of that do you know if I can get something like this corrugation support these guys in Arizona talk about? I think in UK this is called eaves filler made of foam? I found some at Onduline website https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Eaves-Fillers-for-Corrugated-Sheets-Pack-6/p/240165 I don't think this makes sense in my case because I attach it to rafters that go parallel with the sheets but it would be good to support it on something in place where I screw it in.

I wanted the timber to rest on the 2nd one but it looks like the cut is going to be too deep, isn't it? What would you recommend doing? Should I introduce a wedge to bridge the gap?

I think the spacing between rafters will be 60cm. This EZ Glaze looks cool but it's quite expensive unless I can find something similar but cheaper. How far should the overhang reach do you think? Half-way? Of course on the right side I want to cut it parallel to the wall. Do you think on the left side should I cut it square? I think on both ends I should incise these weeping groves right so the timer lasts longer, no?

from the description these are 3mm thick comparing to corrugated that is 1-1.3mm of thickness

what do you think about stuff like EZ Glaze? https://corrugatedplasticroofing.co.uk/collections/ez-glaze-glass-like-polycarbonate-roof-panels

I have heard about that. What else transparent would you recommend then?

I think the only problem I can see so far is those wires going exactly where the rafters will end. I think I have to move them or something or carve out the wood.

Please have a look. This is what I built so far. This is very strong. I mean I could put up a roof and then think about bracing as this is quite strong. I don't put tiles but polycarbonate sheets.

I already screwed everything together. I could not wait before the beautiful weather today I send some pictures later today. On the bases I used M10 everywhere else M12

how is this bracing achieved in such circumstances? I reckon I need an anchor of some sort.

I am putting up my patio and I found two of the 6x6 posts not entirely level when I check with my 1m long level. The reason I am asking is because I am about to connect these posts with the other side to make it a solid square. At the moment it can sway side to side. My question is: should I pull the post in the desired direction to level it then clamp it before drilling holes or just leave it as is without causing the tension? I mean the wood is not 100% straight.

Would you recommend any makers of sturdy frames for the hefty 3 glazing units?

Thanks gents @MikeSharp01 by the way I agree with your quote. There is a stigma attached to this activity and "procrastination" sounds pejorative. Some people don't want you to think but to remain distracted and/or keep running.

Ok, so I go for a single large triple glazed unit and you recommend to factor in this as safety glass. Do you mean every sheet or the one that goes in the middle to be safety glass?

Please can anyone recommend something?

that's very useful information. I didn't know that so ideally you want as few glazing units per window as possible.

Hi again, I think about getting uPVC doors with triple glazing. I could go for double glazed but the point of my question is your recommendation about the number of units per door. To install a single triple glazed unit to cover the whole door would be quite heavy and difficult to do. I think even a double glazed unit would pose some challenges to a man. In the meantime I thought about it and I realised that a single large unit isn't ideal as any crack forces you to replace the whole thing. How about 2 or 4 units per door? I mean if by mistake I kick and crack the bottom one I only replace that one. Does it happen often?

Awesome thank you. You saved me from moving my scaffold back and forth.

yes, I want to work out the size of the glazing unit not the window. The reason I ask is because these windows have beads on the outside and I would need to get a ladder: 1. to measure from outside with beads on 2. to measure from outside with beads off I think the frame inside is the same as the frame outside with beads on, right? so technically 10mm extra for 5mm each side is safe, no?