Lynford

Thanks. Bottom line is that they need working heating before the winter........any money back would be a bonus !

Seems very reasonable to be fair. And can have 0% finance over 2 years which I wasn’t expecting (with a 10% deposit)

Sorry, just seen it on the quote / info ! £1113 a year.

@newhome, yes I believe they are applying for the payment on my in-laws behalf. How much could they expect.

Thanks chaps. @Stones, yes as part of the attempt to get the old system going (and as the old one was rusting around the joints)the cylinder was replaced so it’s known good quality and around a year old.

After the running saga with the Kingspan ASHP detailed on this forum, my in-laws have given up and have eventually found someone to quote them for a new system. Its Mitsubishi which makes me feel a little more confident. If anyone with experience in these things cast an eye over this quote and see if it makes sense please, I have no idea what I’m looking for ! Also, anything else they should be requesting or questions they should ask ? Cheers.

Thanks all. Changing to a combi partly to stop heating water we never use (while still having a good supply of hot water available) Also we have a shower pump right near our bedroom and it’s bloody noisy. A combi should see the end of this. The existing boiler is very old, and while we have the money to change it I’d like to.

Evening all, I’ve got British Gas coming round tomorrow to quote me for a new boiler (getting them to quote first as a ballpark figure as I assume they’ll be expensive, then I’ll get local firms in to compare) We currently have a boiler that heats the hot water and stores it in a tank with an immersion heater in it, and are looking to have a Combi fitted. Is there anything in particular I need to look out for ? ie should the system be flushed, power or chemical ? Should there be a filter inline ? Anything else I should ask or be aware of ? Cheers !

Thank you all for your help......it’s a pity local tradesmen weren’t as much use as you all ! Unfortunately we never got to the bottom of whether it was an ASHP issue or a control problem and they have decided to cut their losses and get a replacement system fitted. Anyone wanna buy a 15kw Kingspan that may or may not work ?

That’s from the heat pump manual Peter, yes.

Hugely disappointing but glad I found this in the manual before we tried to switch the valve around ! Just confuses me more why we only get heat at the rads when the valve is manually moved over......

@JSHarris @Nickfromwales Gentlemen, thank you very much. Now to work out how to spin it around without filling the bungalow with water ! The feed to the valve has an isolator underneath the pump, I’m hoping I can knock that off and I won’t get too much of a soaking.

Sorry for taking a while to come back Peter. Yep, I can move the stem easily by hand and can feel it move when I switch the HW on & off.

Morning all. Been off the case for a few weeks while the FIL had someone else look at it but had another go yesterday. It’s not getting anymore straightforward and has made me realise I should have started a lot more basic. First of all the HW timer was programmed all over the shop, on several days it was on for a total of 13hrs between 4am & 11pm. As this overrides the heating I thought I’d found the issue (plus the heating timer was set up all over the place as well) I still only seemed to get heat at the rads with the 3 port valve overridden using the lever. Apparently this valve was changed or repositioned when the HW cylinder was changed. It’s difficult to get in there to see but I got my phone in to get a picture.........I think the valve could have been fitted the wrong way round ? The system apparently was working before the HW cylinder was changed. I thought (think) that B on the valve should go to the HW cylinder ? Whereas it disappears into the floor so I think it goes to the rads. Meanwhile A from the valve goes into ‘Heat pump coil’ in the HW cylinder. Is this the wrong way round ? Just seems strange that if I manually move the valve over I get heat at the rads. If this is the case it’s partly my fault for not checking the very basics (programmer / valve orientation etc). Maybe too trusting that the ‘experts’ who have been around before have checked the right things or done their job properly. Thanks as as always for any help, always appreciated.

Thanks Peter, I was hoping that the pipe size might have had some bearing on it.......bugger ! Do you mean the 3 port valve, or just the head of it ? I had the head off the other week and it seems to rotate ok when it’s powered up / powered off. What really confused me is that when I put it on manual we started getting heat in the rads, I thought manual on those was to move the system over to HW ? Thanks, Lyndon