pilgrim

Thank you for these recommendations. I'll contact them tomorrow and see if they can help me. Im based out near Framlingham so both are quite nearby

Do any of you lovely Suffolk people know any steel fabricators that you could recommend? or any to avoid! Ive been trying to get some quotes to build a steel frame for my extension but most of the local people I have found so far are not very responsive!

Ahh yes @ADLIan thank you, good spot, my mistake on the drop down menus there! thanks

Thanks @Iceverge I have been playing with the make up but with PIR boards and mineral wool. but it seems like mixing pir and mineral wool gives me a big condensation risk. Unless Ive just set it up wrong. Mineral wool in between rafters and PIR over the top is what I was thinking of doing for the warm roof insulation, after reading other threads on here it sounds easier than getting the pir in between the rafters.

Im planning to use vertical larch cladding, but a hardy plank style synthetic cladding for the wall that will run along the boundary so that it shouldnt need maintenance Im not sure that is what the structural engineer specified to use throughout.

Yes I could put some insulation on the outside of the structure.

Yes you are right, there are windows above the ridge height, in reality I can probably safely raise the ridge height up once I have worked out the correct makeup for the roof.

Hello, Im planning a single story extension, with a pitched roof that will be built of a steel portal frame with steel ridge leading back to the existing house. so I can have open vaulted ceilings in the extension. The walls and roof will be timber frame stick built onsite. I would like to have a warm roof if I can as this sounds like the best option but maybe I am making it more complex for my self than it needs to be for the benefits. I will be doing nearly all of the construction myself. I have had the structural engineers drawings done, but I would like some advice on the best construction details to minimise cold bridging and making my extension as warm as I can. I have been reading through various forum posts and watching youtube videos but think I might have confused myself a little bit. I have attached the plans from the engineer and where I have got to so far with my model. At the moment I am not sure the best way to clad the steel pillars and wether the roof details are correct for a warm roof with standing seam roof. Any advice on this would be really appreciated. Thanks

Yes that way you can also foil tape the joints in the PIR (and fill any gaps in the joints with expanding foam!) to give you a vapour barrier as well

I did this. It seemed to work well for me, I did it in 2 stages, stuck the PIR to the walls then stuck the plasterboard to the PIR, its been up for 2 years now with no noticeable problems. I also put in a few long screws through the plasterboard and PIR into a solid substrate for extra security.

Thank you, yeah I have planned to set some bolts in the concrete to tie it all down

I am working out how to build a shed in my garden and I am unsure of the best way to do the Damp Proof Membrane below the concrete slab. So far I have the base planned like this with the DPM coming up the wall at least 150mm. My plan is to over clad the OSB with a breathable membrane, batterns and tongue and groove / weather board. Then a french drain around the outside. Is this approach sensible? what is the best way to protect the membrane from being damaged? or will the shingle in the french drain be enough? This will just be a shed (for now anyway!) so I want to keep the concrete close to ground level to make it easier pushing equipment in and out! Thank you

Hi, I have two old fireplaces in my house that I want to skim. One is in the master bedroom and I have removed the old open coal fire and plastered the walls, but I am not sure what would be the best product to use to make the floor level again. It will probably be carpeted over so not worried about the look. Is concrete the best product to use here? The other one is in the living room and I want to put the wood burning stove back in place but not sure what is best to use to skim the old bricks as it will need to cope with the heat from the stove. I am thinking that I will then paint this finish rather than tiling behind the stove. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you

I am in a similar situation, I just keep a couple of bags in the boot of my car, one for dirty clothes one for clean, the added advantage of this is the dirty ones occasionally get washed at home!

hehe well im the "plumber"! just had the heat pump kit provided by a local green energy company so I can get the BUS grant. I'll see how cold I get next winter and see if I need additional radiators, for now I'll run the pipes under the floor so they are easy to fish out and connect up if needed. If Im cold next winter I'll start another thread here!