Zak S

Does aeration of the soil not help at all? I am not sure if water table has reached the surface as in Dec it was at one meter depth (as the GI) was done. The flooding of the garden on one side might be due to fast rain/storm last Monday. Hence the thought is french drain will resolve the issue?

Not Thanks. I need to keep OH on my side for the new build so I have promised that she will get either new kitchen or something like new. Hence either B&q or spray painting. ?

Hi. Due to very clayey soil and high water table with lots of trees in the area, I noticed the house we are buying has an issue of water logging in the far end of the garden and it was literally flooding that corner of the garden. However, Grass across the garden felt drenched in water and has lots of mossy growth. Garden is north east facing but total plot size is 0.38 acre. How best to deal with this issue. Should I go for french drains just the area where it floods and drain the water to other area or to mains? Happy to aerate the garden on regular basis. Would it address the problem on an ongoing basis?

Hi. Hopefully a quick question: between Howdens and B&Q, which option is the cheapest? Need a kitchen for approx 1-2 years. Been thinking about spray painting existing one as well as the property will be demolished but just in case if I go fo new one which would be the cheaper option. Thanks.

@nod hi. I had a quote for plastering using traditional method and it was 350-400 for the walls per room. Another guy quoted £12.50 per sqm using spray and he said the traditional hand method ranges from 7-9 per sqm. He only dies spray and want 15% to book 7month in advance due to wait time. Does the pricing seem reasonable? Is deposit usual practice? Thanks.

Gate and railing might look better with similar colour as the windows and frames. Currently it appears to be black. Definitely an improvement on the bricks design. Z clad and render looks nice as well. Might be worth considering.

Where about are you based? What should be the selection criteria for best option? Whats your view of MGO board. Are they good to use?

Hi. I am keen to find out about spray plastering: Is worth it in terms of cost and speed and if any one had any experience with it, how did it turn out. Are there any recommendations for the companies in Midlands. Also is it something one could learn by going on training course. Or would you prefer the traditional plastering. I am assuming for new build one could simply go for tape and joint plaster board or (more controversial option of MGO boards - internal use only) and remove the need for the wet plastering. Thanks.

Thanks for all the tips. Very helpful. The conservation report suggested that as over the year character of the area has changed with various alterations to the properties (before the area was designated as conservation in late 1990s), hence they did not apply article 4(2) direction and permitted development right have been allowed. This means that people have done further updates under permitted developments and asked for planning permissions etc which have been allowed subject to certain restrictions in most cases. On dormers, I am just taking the chances as the Architect told me; if the asked by the planners he would happily remove them and I am in the same position. Though dormers are not really pretty but I am 80% sure they would be coming out in any case due to potential objection and the property value does not allowe for more creative/prettier options. Yes, indeed, I want to treat this as a test bed for the next project using same trades people for the later project and sourcing the material in the same way etc. Will be submitting the planning next week and will ask the architect for coloured drawing to complement the auto cad drawings. Let's see what he says.

Thanks. Very useful points. I think margin there is a potential margin of 50-80k depending on the cost control. Current value is 350k. With side extensions (rear already in place before it was bought) and loft conversion with velux windows and no dormers and without building it might touch 500k but that would be the ceiling. Outbuilding not expected to add much value so will just recover its cost or max 10% margin if at all. Hence need to decide once planning is in place. Speaking with builder who have done similar work on near by properties they said 70-80k spend is required without dormers and out buildings.

How about if the roof light can be opened? Would that compensate? Are sliding doors not something which are in place of windows. For traditional semi probably difficult to get side windows so the only option are either front or rear. Or have I totally misunderstood?

Updated drawing which I had asked. The ensuite stays on the first floor and utility on ground but wet room is added to downstair WC. Not ensuite but creates the facility to sue downstair bed room for elderly. Would that work? Also bifold doors replaced by sliding doors x 2.

Probably yes. But if the roof cannot be changed then option are quite limited. I wanted triangular shaped glazed windows but thought they might cost a lot and would still be treated the same as dormer by the planners plus they might seem put of place. It's a traditional 1930s semi so design option are limited. At the rear I have asked to replace the sliding door and stand alone window with two sets of sliding doors. But probably that's the limited of my imagination ?

Hi has done what I asked him to do so probably lack of imagination is on my part ?

I have not paid him yet and he is very reasonable.

Probably 50-75k additional value based on the how great the cost control is for the project. Based on what planner say I might think to sell just with the planning permission for someone else to build. All depends on what planners can agree.

The above images only added to describe where the thinking behind ,dormers as compared to hip to gable extension' has originated from. Might be barking up the wrong tree.

@ETC thanks for the feedback. This has been done by an Architect. The plan is to go with maximum what we want and then negotiate down. There are no plans to demolish existing bay window. The extension at the rear behind the original house is already in place. I have the feeling that extension is too big but I have the plot on the side and it still leaves a bit of gap to boundry wall. Would be happy to reduce the size upto certain extent but it need to financially work interm of value add v cost as a very small extension might not add the required value I am looking for.

@Iceverge many thanks for your feedback. The thinking behind the dormers rather than hip to gable loft purely stems from an extension in another conservation area in the city where a triangular glazed side extension (first pic) was allowed and built and which also formed the bases of another similar modelling work in that conservation area (2nd pic below). On that basis I thought; may be smaller dormer might stand more chance but as far as hip to gable box extension is concerned that would a big no by the planners and conservation area officer. Though conservation area is not subject to article 4(2) direction and permitted development rights remain, alteration to the roof require planning permission per the article 2(3) for the designated land (confirmed by the council) The side dormer is purely there as negotiating tool and if planners dont ask it to be removed, I will remove it myself. The road behind the house is non conservation area and hence property is literally surrounded by other semis where hip to gable extension for the loft (big single box) has been done. But I am certain it will not be permitted for my project which is a bit disappointing for me. With all the dormer taken out from the loft if required by the planners, I am not sure how I would squeeze ensuite in the loft? Any advice on that? With all the dormer taken out, not sure how I would squeeze ensuite in the loft? Any thoughts on that? The rear bay window is already integrated in the rear extension (already in place); I am only adding the roof lights there. So no work is required there for the integration of rear bay window. Also, any thoughts as to how the drawing can be made prettier?

No, I checked with Planning Office for the local council and they confirmed in writing that the out building, even in Conservation Area, does not require planning permission. We are just applying for permitted development certificate for it.

Hi, Thanks. I found this from the planning portal: Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof. Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwelling house. Does it mean unless the outbuilding/garage is not set minimum 2.5m from the boundary the four meter (4m) overall height with dual pitched roof or three meter (3m) for any other roof would not be permitted? Also what should be the distance from the boundary in order to avoid the affect of point relating to 'building from non-combustible material'? Is it 1m distance from the boundary or more?

HI, Thanks. I have the similar feeling. Just trying to see if possible at all but have planned to revert to velux windows option on front and rear if dormer are not possible. Only have the architect but no planning consultant. Is one worth a speaking with for a small scale extension project?

Hi, The garden is south west facing so bit colder and darker on the front the front of the house and brighter and warmer at the rear. High res plans uploaded now. 4031-02AA.pdf 4031-03AA.pdf

Hi. I was recommended House Builders bible 14th Edition and that is quite good book. It would not give the know how to demolish and rebuild yourself but very useful if you are appointing either trades people or one contractor. In my view, once you have rebuilt the foundation with approptoate solution piling etc, it should wipe the slate clean for your property as it would not have any history of subsidence but dont forget ensure that you have the structural warranty to help satisfy the Insurance provider that structurally property is sound. Insurance question is normally limited to the property in question itself rather than adjoining properties. Might be worth asking Insurance brokers. Before looking at rebuild/refurbishment option it might be worth considering the market value of the property on cash sale as it probably might not get a mortgage. But between refurb at that level v rebuild, I will always prefer the rebuild as long as the cost can be managed and controlled.

Main image missing from the above (but included in the pdf. Included here below.