
Zak S
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Thanks. I heard you can get pre weathered and it does not look too bad. Just want to see if adding zinc will create that contemporary flare that I am looking for. Plus it's light weight which would be suitable for the house on this ground.
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@Icevergethats very helpful. I am aware that arts and craft can be a pain to build hence wanted to simplify that but bringing both contemporary and arts and craft together. I think idea of shingles comes from on one side come for that. But if it's difficult to combine then might just go one way or the other.
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Thanks. Yes great analogy! The question is how does one achieve a unique design. I agree that material choices are in outlandish (ie combining charred timber with metal shingles). How best to simplify material choices? Light coloured bricks and Render? Would you suggest zinc roof instead of slate/tiles. What feature would make it stand out in nice unique way or totally redraw the design? Possible my fault as I had asked him to take the design influence based on Contemporary and combine with Arts and Crafts. Not sure if these two can be combined.
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I had suggested this the architect but from his architectural point of view the pitched roof has a better visual than pitched with flat on the top and it seems sensible.
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That's right. It's on the neighbours side. The contractor accepted that its not right and will come back to tidy up but was against the idea of trench and footing for the gravel board (idea which the lovely neighbour suggested that I should have done).
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Some other examples in the area which highlight the mass and the design approach v neighbours. My architect thinks that planning officer chickened out due to various objections but to some extent I take it as a positive that we have a opportunity to better the design and material choice. I don't want to be limited to immediate neighbours in terms of Mass and ridge height and need some flexibility there. Otherwise application is decided on the basis of what neighbours had done rather than on its own merit (within reasonable limits) and ignores the precedents in the neighbourhood. First image (the middle property) used to be banglow and they obtained householder permission for building up/extension and loft space so similar to my application
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There are so many precedents where ridge height for new development are higher than immediate neighbours including one right in front of my house (newly build) by aprox 1m. Other examples are in some cases two meter higher. One of the point raised was that loft makes it three storey. But looking at the precedent on the street these either opposit of 5 houses away please see attached. First image is that of proposed as per my planning application. But the rest are neighbouring. What should be the key amendments?
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I am surprised to see how stingy some of these people are. I offer to replace rear end panel for a different neoghbour which had falled due to storm for the price of the panel. I got told it was too expensive. To maintain my privacy I installed a panel which supplier provided free of charge in the end due to size of few order. Short answer to your question is No. I was told this side was my responsibility so I swallowed the bitter pil but then complaints about the gaps and lack of footing under gravel board was just icing on the cake.
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Posting an update: we applied planning permission and 6/7 neighbours pooled together to and filed objection including one hiring a planning consultant 😂. We were asked to withdraw the application due to inconsistent material choices (term used: not inline with vernacular of the street) which on the street mainly consist of bricks, render and few tudor styles architecture). Also point raised about mass was significantly higher than immediate neighbours plus the roof height 2m higher than immediate neighbour. We have to reduce the mass / ridge height. I have no clue as to what the mass is. I am flexible in terms of reducing the ridgebheight by around one meter so as not to sacrifice the loft space. The issue is we are not really extending the existing footprint significantly actually reducing it by taking down the log store of 1.25m width so I am not sure how can I reduce the mass if we are building on existing foot print unless we choose to not build on parts of it. Any ways back to drawing boards to look at ridge height, material choices (possibly dropping charred timber and shingles as been told it makes the house dominant) and mass so any advice on the deisgn and material choices would be much appreciated e.g would you suggest dropping the idea of double height ceiling hall and living room, curve stair case, bridge etc. Thanks in advance.
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Hi I had around 17 panels installed over the weekend and these look like as per the pic. There is a slight slope away from the house. Ground is a bit uneven and it gets a bit boggy in winter. On my side the fencer filled in the soil to hide away any gaps under the gravel board (not that there should be any) but these gaps were left on the neighbour side and I got the complaint as soon as they left. From the neighbour side it looks like as per the close up photos. Please could you advise how bad it is and if it can be fixed easily so that fence panel stay aligned. Contractor said that he will come back and infill with soil and bark and fill the area around posts with postcrete. He says that they don't normally do the footing or trenches unless there is significant slope which I don't have. The neighbour said that they should have done a trench and footing. What are your thoughts and how can it be fixed? Thanks
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So far we have had three quotes of fire curtain. Fire Curtains seems very expensive and low in terms of value add compared to ptotected fire escape staircase. The plan image above with protected fire escape staircase seems to be best option and still give us decent amount of space. We have visited few projects with gallery views and open plan living space as well as dual height ceilings. These buildings are way above standard houses in terms of wow factor. Overall we are quite happy with the concept and the design. Many thanks to everyone here for highlighting very important points. These have been of great help.
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8.2mx6.3m cost = £23k Supply & Install
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Also please could the helpful readers provide the feedback on the option of using combination of charred timber plus zinc/aluminium shingles on the left v only charred timber based on the pics below. 3d render of charred timber all round seems better but it might be just because it's 3d view but it reality the addition of shingle might give a bit of character. Please also note the difference in porch glazing in the two pictures. I am also considering the idea of cladding only on thr front and might cover the sides with render or brick due to cost conisderation. Thoughts on that would also be welcome.
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@Alan AmbroseHad a chat with a supplier and was told 4-6k per curtain. They can do 10x6m which might be slightly more expensive. I think the key is to get through BCO so might be worth having a chat with BCO Initially to get their view (someone helpfully suggested earlier).
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Yes. The extra staircase is the fire escape route from the second floor and was proposed as a way to counter potential fire engineered solution involving fire suppression system/sprinklers/fire curtains (fire curtain being the most expensive option. I have not had any quotes on the fire curtain but it seems to be around £2.5k per sqm based on quick google search and we will need to have c50sqm for first and second floor. So yes based on this it will be extremely expensive. Might need to speak with company to get a quote. Your suggestion to speak with actual fire engineer is good one. I might try that. I was thinking if there are any clever design modification which can be done to counter the issue I have?
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Please help if you can! Have received amended plans and bit heart broken to see loss of space due to addition of fire escape route on all three floors also giving house very commercial feel. The fire engineered solution would be expensive with fire curtain to be most expensive. Fire escape route however does not deal with smoke issue to the left wing of the house so not sure if it is going to work in any case. Any thoughts as to what could be done to make the design fire safe without fire engineered solution or dedicated second staircase while allowing the light to spread from south facing front to north facing rear. Happy to lose the curve staircase but wanted to keep gallery feel and double height ceilings.
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That is true; in order to keep the open plan, feature staircase/gallery view plus double height ceiling in the living room, not sure if there are any other solution but will be keen to learn about.
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There is a possibility of fire curtain system which can counter the issue of smoke spreading through the hall but understand the additional costs.. Have seen one in the office but not sure if with that installed the requirement of mist system might disappear so net cost might become manageable.
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Also I been looking at some ed render which used charred timber through out with grey bricks and seems to like it better compared to using aluminium/ zinc shingles. I think my initial brief was contemporary and arts craft coming together but feel charred timber through out for more contemporary look could be better out come and it will make it less busy. Thoughts on terms of comparison to the image posted in original post above?
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Thanks. I have been informed that loft area will be protected from first floor by fire doors and that I would need mist system for the ground floor as fire suppression system. Obviously this will add to the cost but cost of fire doors and mist system (likely 5k) seems manageable. I have not been told about protected fire escape route and the plan currently does not have that so not if that will be required if we have taken the measures mentioned above.
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Hi @ETC. Just wondering if in your view, using a differnt kind of Hob e.g. Induction in the Island in the large kitch will be acceptable be less problematic, given the dirty small (secondary) kitchen is already proposed to be isolated? Or one can omit the hob in the main large open plan kitchen or replace it with Teppanyaki plate.
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Now add the development loan to include land + ERP as currently on 5year term + moving onto hight mortgage interest rate after completion. With assumption it would take 18month to rebuild, it could add up nearly c275-300k. Simply Finance cost are astronomical for self build developmental loan. Self build with funding from bank eats all the profit that a project has. Self build is only worth for a small proportion of overall development cost or if you are planning to sell to realise whatever profit has left.
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Yes definitely a good idea and that what it might turn out to be but thinking in that way will help organising things. Great advice.
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I will prefer the rebuild if I have the money to afford it all on my own without recourse to financing but unfortunately that is not the case. Just the finance cost to fund the rebuild is 230k including development loan/remortgage/bridging and early repayment on the mortgage and then moving go higher interest rate once the development is complete. I just cannot believe rebuild will be worth that much extra. Plus there is no doubt rebuild will cost a bit more but agree it will be better over all product. I just cannot fund 400-500k extra for a marginally better product. The payback period on that will be more than 50 years which is not worth it hence I will happily do the work in stages or reduce the overall work. Though, I appreciate all the advice regarding the rebuild but unfortunately that is not question here. Question is what is the reasonable breakdown of the elements within the tender and how could the cost be lowered. Some very helpful advice is here in terms of taking further quotes which I will do.