Plasterboarding/insulation questions

[mvincentd]

The plan was to dot and dab plasterboard onto my thermalite inner leaf of my external cavity walls, then skim.

 

Some vertical steels project into my living room a further 50mm than the thermalite line.  I'd prefer not to have the visual fuss of boxing these out so am happy to lose the necessary space to get a single smooth wall line equating to the steels rather than the thermalites.  I presumably can't dot and dab a cavity of that size (50mm + 20mm of dab on the steel) so expect to add virtually a stud type framework of 70mm.  It would then seem logical to insulate it....are there any ramifications i'm overlooking.

 

These steels flank a large sliding door and illbruk air tape me500 is fixed from door frame onto the steelwork, the tape covering the whole depth of the reveal.  If I d&d onto the tape i'm relying on the tape to stay stuck to the steels.  Do I baton this and take care to seal the holes in the tape created by screws..or is there another approach?

 

 

 

 

 

[nod]

38 minutes ago, mvincentd said:

The plan was to dot and dab plasterboard onto my thermalite inner leaf of my external cavity walls, then skim.

 

Some vertical steels project into my living room a further 50mm than the thermalite line.  I'd prefer not to have the visual fuss of boxing these out so am happy to lose the necessary space to get a single smooth wall line equating to the steels rather than the thermalites.  I presumably can't dot and dab a cavity of that size (50mm + 20mm of dab on the steel) so expect to add virtually a stud type framework of 70mm.  It would then seem logical to insulate it....are there any ramifications i'm overlooking.

 

These steels flank a large sliding door and illbruk air tape me500 is fixed from door frame onto the steelwork, the tape covering the whole depth of the reveal.  If I d&d onto the tape i'm relying on the tape to stay stuck to the steels.  Do I baton this and take care to seal the holes in the tape created by screws..or is there another approach?

 

 

 

 

 

Quite normal on commercial jobs that need to put racking or desks against the wall 

Dab one layer out to 30 mil

And the next will simply ride over the steels 

Being careful to not land any of the joints on the steels 

 

hope this helps 

[mvincentd]

Interesting thanks....so if the steels were 'mid-wall' its easy.  Mine are making the ends of a section of wall between floor to ceiling windows/doors, so a pb joint in the form of a 90 degree turn into the reveal is unavoidable on the steels.

19 minutes ago, nod said:

Being careful to not land any of the joints on the steels

...so is this a deal breaker?

[nod]

No it’s no problem 

Your dryliner will probably run a line of acoustic sealant down the edge that meets the steel and fire a line of 14 mill nails into the board 

It shouldn’t be something he hasn’t done before 

[mvincentd]

2 hours ago, nod said:

It shouldn’t be something he hasn’t done before

It was gonna be me...but perhaps i'll get a bit of help with the detail bits.  I can't pretend to fully understand what the 14mm nails will achieve, sorry?

[nod]

Sorry 

We normally shot fire Hilti nails into steel

But if you haven’t got a gun 

You can simply run a band of gyp sealant down the edge of the steel and trap the edge with your next saved board 

[mvincentd]

Yep, sounds easier , thanks.