Internal fit out process Part 1

[Big Neil]

So i guess this applies to any type of build method but I'm specifically thinking of ICF at the moment, just so we aren't all thinking at cross purposes. Example;

 

Walls up and poured, first floor posi joists in. rood structure also on and waterproofed, and works going on externally. Doors and windows fitted.

 

All (hope i use these next two words in the correct context) 'first fix' electrics and plumbing completed (what i mean just in case is all cable and pipes run to appropriate positions including soil pipes). Ground floor UFH laid if not done within slab and screed poured and cured fully.

 

Would it be completely bang out of order at this point to now plasterboard and skim the downstairs entirely including the ceiling, spray paint when dried (lets say all walls and ceilings in white for the time being). At this point (assume all downstairs lights are downlights) go around and mark positions for downlights then follow along with a hole cutter and create the holes. Slot in all downlights then go upstairs (which remember is currently just an open void), and connect them all up.

 

I know this might sound like an odd idea given there are no floorboards up there at the moment and no dividing walls (although i have an unusual idea of how to mitigate the normal lack of working platform). My reason behind the thought process above, is based on knowing my own skill level firstly and secondly trying to organise internal works in a fashion where you aren't working AROUND other things more than necessary. As a complete amateur when it comes to house building it strikes me that if you can concentrate on one thing at a time and make sure it is out the way and doesn't need disturbing again, that's likely to result in a better quality product with less comeback.

 

Part 2 coming as I didn't want to make this any longer than it already is

[Declan52]

Think your way over complicating things.  Don't try to reinvent the wheel.

Put the floor in up stairs first.  Then the build is  a lot safer.  Do the  first fix joinery.  Stud walls etc where they need to go on both floors.  Then get the sparks and plumbers into to run all there bits and bobs through out the house.  

The sparks pull cables through the joists and for the ground floor they go down and the first floor they go up.  How would you do this if the ceiling is already in on the first floor and you put the floor down.  Same goes with any plumbing pipes how would you work them.  

That's before the obvious battering and banging on the floor when your doing the floor and any stud walls.  Your nice crisp white ceiling will have a lot of popped screw heads. 

[Big Neil]

16 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

That's before the obvious battering and banging on the floor when your doing the floor and any stud walls.  Your nice crisp white ceiling will have a lot of popped screw heads. 

I hadn't considered that Fair point

 

17 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

The sparks pull cables through the joists and for the ground floor they go down and the first floor they go up.  How would you do this if the ceiling is already in on the first floor and you put the floor down.  Same goes with any plumbing pipes how would you work them.

 I probably wasn't clear enough i sort of mean to do the cable/pipe bashing bit of things before any ceiling went up such that it could be picked up easily once upstairs. My thoughts sort of went towards passive slabs, where if my understanding is correctly everything pops up from under the slab through ducting. I thought a similar approach might work

 

19 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Put the floor in up stairs first. 

 

My thought on this was that if you do this first, you either have to go for a UFH  system above the subfloor thus reducing room height, or you have to put the spreader plates in from below. I would want to remove any reaching above me as far as possible. Plus when it comes to installing things like those downlights, you're working more blind than if you had an open space below you.

 

Does all this make sense even if I was thinking wrong.

[Big Neil]

I have various wall posters and other such articles suggesting fit out routes, but having read them before one thing that always struck me was that they seem to be written for people who largely already know what they are doing. 

[Declan52]

1 hour ago, Big Neil said:

I hadn't considered that Fair point

 

 I probably wasn't clear enough i sort of mean to do the cable/pipe bashing bit of things before any ceiling went up such that it could be picked up easily once upstairs. My thoughts sort of went towards passive slabs, where if my understanding is correctly everything pops up from under the slab through ducting. I thought a similar approach might work

 

 

My thought on this was that if you do this first, you either have to go for a UFH  system above the subfloor thus reducing room height, or you have to put the spreader plates in from below. I would want to remove any reaching above me as far as possible. Plus when it comes to installing things like those downlights, you're working more blind than if you had an open space below you.

 

Does all this make sense even if I was thinking wrong.

In a passive slab you  won't have many services running through it.  A few ducts for waste from toilets, baths sinks etc and if you have ufh the pipes coming up at your manifold.  After that it's maybe only the mains electric coming in and telephone cable and things like a duct carrying power to outside shed, electric gates etc.  All your first fix wiring and plumbing will be in the joists and run to whatever point them come down or up via studwork. 

If your going for the ufh pipes in a dry biscuit mix then you allow for this extra few inches when your building it. 

You can still put the spreader plates in from above and floor over them like normal.  You just have to carefully mark each joist and any where that the pipe crosses over so no stray screw hits it. 

When you are doing things like downlights all the cables will be  in the  behind the plasterboard.  The spark will cut a hole  pull the loop through connect it up to the light then click the light in.  It's not that hard a job to do.  He will have it all worked out where the spots are going so well have the cables in the right spot. Are you going to be doing the electrics and plumbing?? If not then you really are worrying over nothing.  You shouldn't be doing any electrical or plumbing work unless you know what your doing.