how to insulate an outdoor shower?

[Andeh]

After a career setback over the summer, I needed a project so built myself an outdoor shower. it works really well.

 

Id like to still be able to use it over the winter when I truly hate myself, but I'm trying to think of ways of winter proofing it.

 

The hot and cold feed are in 25mm walk thick insulation outside, and 10mm thick through the unheated single garage.

 

My concern is around the valve mechanism and how insulate it, per pictures below?

 

I have isolation valves inside the house, and intend to fit drain valves on the hot and cold pipes below shower AND at the lowest pipe exiting the shower valve at the bottom.

 

Just welcome any other suggestions!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited Sunday at 07:43 by Andeh

[Andeh]

Will try and post up more pics when I find a way to shrink them below 2mb!

[JpManning]

Your drain plan is the important bit. Insulation slows freezing but will not stop a hard frost if water sits in the valve overnight, so being able to isolate indoors and empty everything downhill of those valves is the reliable winter route.

For the valve body itself, a removable insulated box works better than wrapping alone. A simple plywood or plastic enclosure lined with foil faced PIR or dense foam, with a hinged or lift off front so you can still use the controls, does the job. Tape or foam the pipe entries. Leave a small drip gap at the bottom so any condensation can escape rather than sitting on the valve.

The 10mm through the garage is thin for an unheated space. I would up that to match the outside (25mm or more), and lag any fittings and elbows properly, not just the straight runs.

If you want occasional use without draining every time, a frost thermostat trace heater on the valve and the last few metres of pipe, under the lagging, is the usual belt and braces approach. Still keep the drains though.

[BadgerBodger]

Trace heat and lag…