Back box for flush mounted floor double power socket?

[markharro]

Do you just use standard metal back boxes for these? Thanks

[Nickfromwales]

15 minutes ago, markharro said:

Do you just use standard metal back boxes for these? Thanks

Yes, that's fine.

 

If screwed down to a concrete floor these can rust out. Wrap the back of the box with a few layers of duct tape, and that'll be better than bare metal vs conc floor.

 

I usually run a floor socket from a double pole FCU, so if it takes a drink you can isolate it and put the circuit back on in the interim.

[Gus Potter]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

I usually run a floor socket from a double pole FCU, so if it takes a drink you can isolate it and put the circuit back on in the interim.

You'll only learn this kind of nugget stuff on BH from the likes of Nick. You may think.. well I'm not going to let the floor socket "take a drink" but..

 

The spark may also want to change the cable rating anyway as it's not say in a wall. Electric cables are sized partly on not just the load but also if they are surrounded by insulation, or near to say UFH.

 

Fundamentally we don't want them to heat up too much. Thus what Nick is saying also make sense when we look at the electrical design holistically, and that can save cost later on. Thus, why not adopt Nick's suggestion, as the spark will insist that the wiring up to the floor socket is to spec anyway? It's just that last nuance that Nick is bringing his experience to bear. 

Edited 5 hours ago by Gus Potter

[Nickfromwales]

18 minutes ago, Gus Potter said:

You'll only learn this kind of nugget stuff on BH from the likes of Nick. You may think.. well I'm not going to let the floor socket "take a drink" but..

 

The spark may also want to change the cable rating anyway as it's not say in a wall. Electric cables are sized partly on not just the load but also if they are surrounded by insulation, or near to say UFH.

 

Fundamentally we don't want them to heat up too much. Thus what Nick is saying also make sense when we look at the electrical design holistically, and that can save cost later on. Thus, why not adopt Nick's suggestion, as the spark will insist that the wiring up to the floor socket is to spec anyway? It's just that last nuance that Nick is bringing his experience to bear. 

Aka "life".....kids / drinks / mops etc. Easier to flick a switch vs get a sparky out to disconnect it before you can turn that bank of sockets back on again.