EinTopaz Posted Monday at 16:43 Posted Monday at 16:43 (edited) Hi all, Was recently looking at replacing the soffits and facias over a front bay window, on closer inspection It looked like there was potentially a void in the outer skin of the wall that the soffits, facias and the roof of the bay window are covering. I decided to take some tiles off to have a better look and did indeed find a void in the outer skin of the wall, and to my eyes looks like the void continues through the inner skin too? (though it'd be good for someone to confirm that). Based on the image and video below, how bad of a problem is this? should I get the roof off and seal this void? Reason I ask is because this bay window is for the dining room, notably the coldest room in the house. So perhaps not a coincidence? Here's a video that shows the void well :- Hole Video Behind Bay And images too:- Bay window in question Void behind the tiled roof. What do you guys think? fine? or bad? or really bad? thanks Ged Edited Monday at 16:47 by EinTopaz
Nickfromwales Posted Tuesday at 12:39 Posted Tuesday at 12:39 The internal leaf of masonry should be a continuous ‘layer’, so draughts can only travel through the cavity. What we’re seeing is typical ‘builder quality’ work for that era. 1
Tony L Posted Tuesday at 16:38 Posted Tuesday at 16:38 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: ...typical ‘builder quality’ work for that era & the current era as well, if the builders & architectural technicians I have employed are representative of today's building industry personnel. 1
EinTopaz Posted yesterday at 09:53 Author Posted yesterday at 09:53 thanks guys. It looks to my eye that neither of the leafs are continuous based on that.... and looks like they'd foamed the outer once but either not all the way across or its failed. For a fix, tiles, battens, felt off.... PIR board wedged in as deep as I can get it, and foam sealed around the edge, will that suffice? For trivia....Worth noting the property used to be a bungalow so those bays will have originally just run into the old roof. It was converted in 2006 so had hoped i wouldn't be finding this but hey ho, it is it what it is. picture of it in its original bungalow form...
Mr Punter Posted yesterday at 09:59 Posted yesterday at 09:59 If it was done in 2006 there may be some drawings. You would think there would be a beam or lintel spanning above the window to support the masonry for the new first floor.
EinTopaz Posted yesterday at 11:49 Author Posted yesterday at 11:49 There likely is, but i think it may be even higher up than this, Every bedroom on the 1st floor of this property steps up 100mm towards the front of the house, so I reckon the lintel is in there. All the voids between floor and ceiling have double cavity voids too. Where I think they kept the original bungalow ceiling up, then essentially did another cavity above that. Its an odd one. But either way; is the fix to basically PIR board that huge gap and foam seal?
Super_Paulie Posted yesterday at 12:17 Posted yesterday at 12:17 2 hours ago, Mr Punter said: If it was done in 2006 there may be some drawings. You would think there would be a beam or lintel spanning above the window to support the masonry for the new first floor. looks like a catnic to me? Id do what you suggest, PIR in there, foam it in and then cover with wool where you cant get to it. Probably not worth using thermalites if the lintel is supported which it surely is. 2
Nickfromwales Posted 23 hours ago Posted 23 hours ago 1 hour ago, Super_Paulie said: looks like a catnic to me? Id do what you suggest, PIR in there, foam it in and then cover with wool where you cant get to it. Probably not worth using thermalites if the lintel is supported which it surely is. What he said. Just use FM330 foam, as that wont bridge damp etc. 1
EinTopaz Posted 22 hours ago Author Posted 22 hours ago thanks guys, how much of a problem is it if i can only get the PIR closing the outer leaf rather than the inner? Im not sure how good the access will be without removing the entire roof. Which ofcourse i'd rather not.
Nickfromwales Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago 5 minutes ago, EinTopaz said: thanks guys, how much of a problem is it if i can only get the PIR closing the outer leaf rather than the inner? Im not sure how good the access will be without removing the entire roof. Which ofcourse i'd rather not. Inner for draught proofing, or you’ll still have a cold room.
EinTopaz Posted 22 hours ago Author Posted 22 hours ago 12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Inner for draught proofing, or you’ll still have a cold room. where else would the draughts be coming from?
Mr Punter Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago It does look a lot better as a house than a bungalow. 1
EinTopaz Posted 22 hours ago Author Posted 22 hours ago Just now, Mr Punter said: It does look a lot better as a house than a bungalow. thanks, Perhaps only on the surface... been 5 years of finding horrendous workmanship. I feel we're finally at the end of it now (he says)
Nickfromwales Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago 16 minutes ago, EinTopaz said: where else would the draughts be coming from? The cavity 1
Super_Paulie Posted 18 hours ago Posted 18 hours ago If you've ever stripped old walls then you'd be surprised how drafty it is through any gap between bricks on the inner wall. Id imagine there's wind howling round cavities so you've got to do your best to stop that, I tend to just rake out and repoint but I do use FM330 if it's easier to do so.
EinTopaz Posted 13 hours ago Author Posted 13 hours ago We are replacing the soffits and facias on the top floor this summer, so I guess i'll have a look at how exposed/unsealed the tops of the wall cavities are then.
Nickfromwales Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago 8 hours ago, EinTopaz said: We are replacing the soffits and facias on the top floor this summer, so I guess i'll have a look at how exposed/unsealed the tops of the wall cavities are then. The cavity must remain open, but only open to atmosphere.
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