Tony Tray vs Joist Seals

[SBMS]

Currently specifying the posi joist to wall junction.

 

My plan is whichever detail we use, we'll still paint the junction internally with passive purple.  As I understand it, the tony tray method is 'tried and tested' and clearly works - but there can be issues with on site installation (tearing when joists are lifted on etc).

 

Is there any reason why a joist seal such as https://www.manthorpebp.co.uk/air-leakage/joist-seals-wide-range-sizes-and-permutations/joist-seals isn't an easier, less risk prone solution?

[Dave Jones]

we used the 'tony tray'. in reality the DPC doesn't rip, timber isnt sharp. Very easy to do, little more work for brickie but guarantees a seal.

 

i brought ours down 100mm and stuck the 'flap' to the blockwork as belt and braces.

 

[SBMS]

Just now, Dave Jones said:

we used the 'tony tray'. in reality the DPC doesn't rip, timber isnt sharp. Very easy to do, little more work for brickie but guarantees a seal.

 

i brought ours down 100mm and stuck the 'flap' to the blockwork as belt and braces.

 

Dave - really useful, have you got any more photos (especially at corners) of the installation?

[Dave Jones]

dont have a pic of the corner but all you do is run the damp across into the cavity so its sandwiched when the corner block is laid. The brickie will know.

 

oh and if you do bring it down 100mm top and bottom 600 wide damp isnt enough you need 900.

Edited August 29 by Dave Jones

[SBMS]

7 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

oh and if you do bring it down 100mm top and bottom 600 wide damp isnt enough you need 900.

Would that not be based on the joist depth?

[Dave Jones]

4 hours ago, SBMS said:

Would that not be based on the joist depth?

 

it would be you wouldnt want to be any less than 305mm pozis if you want to get soil pipes through them.