DeanAlan Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Apologies for what is likely an idiotic question! We have door frames that are currently stepped back from the plastered finish. I need to put some beed on to then level up to the plastered finish level (so that I can then fit the architrave). Now, the beed will actually be proud of the plaster finish and I need to take it back so that it is flush. If it were some wood corners on a piece of furniture or such then I would use a router and a following bit with a bearing to to rout out material to the same level. I'm wondering if I should use the same technique (not sure if there is space for my router) to have the bearing on the plaster level and the cutting blades on the wood beeding. Or, can you get a wood plane that will also level to another adjacent surface. Tool suggestions. Or just throw me under the bus and point out the bleeding obvious 🙂 Don't mind. cheers, -Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twice round the block Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Post a photo please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 9 minutes ago, DeanAlan said: Apologies for what is likely an idiotic question! No such thing, yes photo please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu w Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 18 minutes ago, DeanAlan said: Apologies for what is likely an idiotic question! We have door frames that are currently stepped back from the plastered finish. I need to put some beed on to then level up to the plastered finish level (so that I can then fit the architrave). Now, the beed will actually be proud of the plaster finish and I need to take it back so that it is flush. If it were some wood corners on a piece of furniture or such then I would use a router and a following bit with a bearing to to rout out material to the same level. I'm wondering if I should use the same technique (not sure if there is space for my router) to have the bearing on the plaster level and the cutting blades on the wood beeding. Or, can you get a wood plane that will also level to another adjacent surface. Tool suggestions. Or just throw me under the bus and point out the bleeding obvious 🙂 Don't mind. cheers, -Dean This happens a lot when walls are over boarded with the original linings left in place . Depending on the amount of linings you need to do, you would be better reducing the size to the correct depth before fixing , or find some timber what is very close . You will need a couple of mm over the finished plaster anyway. Door stop is used fairly regularly for this due the the thickness, or get a local merchant/friend/joinery shop to run it through their planner thicknesser. You will get a more accurate and better quality finish by fitting a regulerised section than trying to trim it when fitted, as you will get deviations which will then show when the architrave is fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrymartin Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Sounds like you already know what you're doing! The problem with the router bit with bearing is that the cut on the bead will follow the contours of the plaster, including all the little bumps you tend to get at the edges of things like doorways - especially when the frame is below the level of the plaster. Best option in this situation if this is the only tool available to you is to place a known flat piece of material onto the plaster and change the bearing diameter on the cutter to take into account the thickness of that material or you'll be doing lots of filling! Another option, and the one I'd personally go for if you have a saw table or know someone who does is to figure out your highest plaster point around the frame, and then cut off a piece to add to the frame that matches that width/thickness on the table saw. That way you can adjust for each door and you won't need to try to get a router into awkward spaces. The other thing I've done in the past is to "relieve" the back of the architrave - so take out some material on the architrave back that is against the plastered wall so that the piece against the frame lies flat. This method only works for small variations between the plaster and the frame though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanAlan Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 The plaster is fresh, super smooth and typically i) not a perfect beed difference in depth ii) on some doors is narrows to one end. Felt like attaching the beed (clamps initially) and then planing or using a router to register against the plaster was a solution but ... I suspect there is a perfect tool/bit out there if only I could find the name for it. I could also clamp the beed, scribe a line, take it off and then plane it down to that depth. Little tricky if it narrows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu w Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 1 hour ago, DeanAlan said: The plaster is fresh, super smooth and typically i) not a perfect beed difference in depth ii) on some doors is narrows to one end. Felt like attaching the beed (clamps initially) and then planing or using a router to register against the plaster was a solution but ... I suspect there is a perfect tool/bit out there if only I could find the name for it. I could also clamp the beed, scribe a line, take it off and then plane it down to that depth. Little tricky if it narrows. The linings should have been extended before the plasterboard/skim was carried out . A flush trim bit would do what you are looking for but not the correct way of doing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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