what is usual temp difference between ashp sat temp and actual temp measured at floor

[scottishjohn]

as per title 

 flooring supplers are worrying me that i can not have more than 27c  output temp if i use stick down vynl tile flooring 

 and are suggesting clikc type vynl flooring is not really suitable due to large floor areas

ground floor is 22mX 8m

 I am worring that in winter I may need to run higher to heat house --all a guess at this stage 

 

Edited February 6 by scottishjohn

[JoeBano]

Don’t know if this helps, a flow temperature of 38-40c takes my 60mm traditional screed on 100mm kingspan insulation to a floor temperature 27c. I have engineered wood glued down. I sure someone on here will have a more technical answer. Have you got a temperature mixer on the manifold? If have a room stat you could fit a floor probe to override the stat when the floor reaches 27c 

[Dillsue]

If 27c is the limit of the glue, could you not use a floating floor

[scottishjohn]

system not fitted yet --UFH piping still to be laid -- just tryingto get in front of any problems

[JoeBano]

I would definitely fit a temperature probe if I could do it again.

[Jenki]

With a Samsung ASHP, my max outlet temp i.e. what's going into the slab is 35 deg. the concrete never gets that warm and if it did the house would be too warm.

 

We have the room temp set to 19.5 and through the day we get 20 / 20.5 the slab never sees 27 deg. at the surface.

[scottishjohn]

50 minutes ago, Jenki said:

With a Samsung ASHP, my max outlet temp i.e. what's going into the slab is 35 deg. the concrete never gets that warm and if it did the house would be too warm.

 

We have the room temp set to 19.5 and through the day we get 20 / 20.5 the slab never sees 27 deg. at the surface.

my thoughts are similar 

 

in that the room stat would turnoff before it ever got to 27, assuming no big drafts to stop ambient room temp to rise   and the heat transfer through the slab should absorb alot of the heat from the ashp 

 

this is why i feel that the case where it llfted the tiles it was a gas boiler hwich could be  heating to much higher temp-- 55c   in an attempt to raose floor temp quickly 

 

more factual replies of outlet temps and resulting slab temps would be good 

 

If 27c at floor delamiated the glue --then i would expect people to have that problem behind big windows in the summer when the syrface of the floor could rise above 27c  indirect sustained sunlight 

 maybe contact a floring maker to get more info 

Edited February 6 by scottishjohn

[Jenki]

3 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

more factual replies of outlet tempps and resulting slab temps would be good 

35 deg  in Max  Slab temp currently 19 deg. (7 hrs after heating finished) room temp 21.5 deg. (some solar gain)

[scottishjohn]

7 minutes ago, Jenki said:

35 deg  in Max  Slab temp currently 19 deg. (7 hrs after heating finished) room temp 21.5 deg. (some solar gain)

 a temp reading when it is working hard to raise floor temp would tell us something

[scottishjohn]

OK 

having talked to a flooring manufacturer and getting to the tech dept   i am now happy that stick down is the way to go 

 thwe 27c that all makers quote is a max temp for direct heat  and not becasue  of tile lifting as the adhesive will be fine  ,but discolouration of the tiles .

In the most extreme cases he told me you could end up with faded lines in tiles  where the heating pipes run ,

also flooring to go behind bifolds,conservatories  etc

they do not reccomand clickfit type  only stick down type 

  so that me happy that there should be no problems 

 proviiding the pipes are well buired in the screed and not close to surface 

I got the impression it was more a problem with retro fit electric heating panels 

 

 I did a wee test on my floor in this house --raised room temp to 24c and with input of 39c --floor never exceeded 24.5c  whikle it was getting up to temp -- so no problem

Edited February 6 by scottishjohn