Bal Merino Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Moved to this house 5vyears ago, gradually fixing previous work. Been trying to sort out noise from CE, finally realised the pump is wired so it is alway on. Would like advice as to best part of the circuit to connect it to so it only comes in when the system is calling for heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 CE presumably meant to say CH as in central heating? Depending on the boiler, the pump should either come on when there is a "call for heat" to the boiler, or some boilers control the pump and have an over run function. If it is on all the time that is wrong. Need more details of the heating system, boiler type, are there any motorised valves etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbeard Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 (edited) It couldn't be a second pump, a 'secondary return' for the domestic HW cylinder, could it? Is there only one pump, or is it a combi boiler? If so, ignore my suggestion. Edited January 4 by Redbeard Add cylinder and combi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bal Merino Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 Sorry folks for miss-typing, CE =CH= Central heating. thanks for the super fast replies. its a Worcester Greenstar Danesnoor utility 12/25 oil boiler, there is only one pump (Grundfos ups2 15-50/60); unless the boiler also has a pump, there are separate zone switches for CH and HW, both appear to be working corretly (I changed the microswitches when i moved in). The boiler and timer is in a utility room, which backs on to a hall cupboard in which the pump is along with an interconnection JB. if i leave the mains switch on, but remove the timer moduel, the pump still runs. I feel I just need to move the pump live to a different terminal but wondering if that should be to one off the zone vales or to the boiler live terminal, the patter seems more applicable. I am an elcetrical engineer, so can trace where everything goes, just wonder what is best practice here. cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Post some pictures of the pump and where it's cable connects to and any other controls like motorised valves, wiring centre etc. Are you saying the pump is definitely connected to permanent L? Is it a system boiler or combi (save me googling it)? Is there a normal "wiring centre" (big junction box?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bal Merino Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 i have removed the timer plate, so it is not switching things on, the room stat is on low, the zone valeves are off, but the pump is still on. there is mains on pins 12 and 13 of the JB. So yes, the pump is on all they time. lucky elecctrical supplier. There is nothing behind the white plate to the left. The zone switches go via wall junctions covered by plates, as can be seen in one of the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bal Merino Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 BTW, it is not a combi system, just a boiler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Check that the 2 motorised valves are de energised (the black lever on the side will show you) If both are off, and the pump is running, disconnect the two orange wires from terminal 6 (turn power off to do that) then turn back on, is the pump still running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bal Merino Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 the pump did stay on. Tracked it back to BOTH micro switches in the two zone valves were sticky!! took a while to spot it as once i fixed the first one (CE), everything seemed OK with everything stripped down. When i put things back together the same problem happened, only this time the boiler and the pump came on! So stripped down the other (HW) zone valve and found its micro switch sticky. it is actually worse, so i shall have to replace it (i have a spare) unless electrical cleaner. works. Thanks very much for the assistance, is was most appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Thanks for letting us know the result. IMHO those are not the best valves, not the ones I would choose but I doubt you chose them either. My view of that make is tainted by a job I had where the head had failed beyond repair, so bought a new head, only to find at some point they had changed the design of the valve body and the new head would not fit the old body even though they looked identical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now