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Posted

New oven instructions say it requires hardwiring into its own dedicated circuit with 4mm cable.

 

The ‘cooker’ circuit is currently connected to the induction hob (32A).
 

I was hoping to connect the new oven (13A) to the same circuit if it was 45A but have discovered it says it’s only 30A on the ‘cooker’ circuit at the consumer unit. 
 

What are my options?

 

(The old oven was plug-in so there is a spare socket at the back of the cabinets but it’s part of a 30A ring).

1F0B766D-CE57-400B-A2DE-BDBC46C15BC2.jpeg

Posted

That doesn’t look like a safe installation. 
 

The back box is for an old cooker control unit. No longer made and nothing will fit it that I know of. 
 

The 45A isolator switch looks to be bodged. Looks like a neon that has been interfered with. Also the earthing assembly has been pulled off the plate, so if that neon is as sketchy as it looks you could have a very dangerous situation brewing. 
 

What you are wanting to do should be possible, taking into account diversity, but you need to get someone who knows what they are doing to sort that abomination out!

Posted

Also, if the circuit is indeed 30A (not 32A), it’s likely the fuseboard/consumer unit will want updating really. Is it a rewireable fuse or an MCB?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Cheers guys. Ended up using spare shower cable which was no longer being used and wired it into a 20A fused socket to power the oven.

 

The old cooker set up is getting replaced with a new one 👍 

Posted

Looks like you have green only earth sleeving so it’s looking like this part of the installation could be over 50 years old. 
worth thinking about if you are planning new kitchens etc.

Posted
2 hours ago, TonyT said:

You still get cooker switches to fit these large back boxes

 

 MK K5011 for the MK version


Must admit I’ve never had reason to look for these and always assumed they were now obsolete as I’ve never seen them fitted new or being sold anywhere. 20 years in the trade, learn something new most weeks. 

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