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Shutters *other* than roller shutters for sound and heat insulation?


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Posted
8 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

And sticking out further than the handle.

Then just about anything can be attached to that.

 

Right - the switch on the side (which controls the awnings) is further out than the handle anyhow.

 

Asked my applied friend - the fact that we'd have a space of at least 16cm between the two frames (because of the switch) should not be a problem; it just means that the entire thing will be "tuned" lower than usual (its resonance frequency will be lower) - it's hard to see how that is a bad thing.

Posted
16 hours ago, SteamyTea said:

Yes.

 

I would have to draw up my idea to explain it better, trouble is, I am at work today.

Work kills creativity.

 

I'm really looking forward to seeing it.

Posted

Right, rather than get my old PC out and boot up the CAD, some pictures instead.

I used the outside of my window as it more closely resembles the inside of yours. Having said that, is fitting secondary glazing outside a viable option.

One thing to remember is that it should be easily removable, in a hurry, in case of a fire.

 

First picture is how a new frame would be fitted. This can be screwed, bonded or just double sided adhesive taped. Paint will match the colour.

 

IMG_20231021_141956776.thumb.jpg.f252294593e0ba53477fb29d28083b99.jpg

 

Then make up a glazed panel.

Mine are cheap clear styrene, but of painted moulded timber, stuck to the styrene with double sided tape, with some foam draught seal stuck to the other side. Now I used a cut of saw to cut the mitres, but a hand saw, and a butt joint (with some filler maybe) would do. Then drill some screw clearance holes through the timber and styrene sheet.

Screw into secondary frame.

 

IMG_20231021_142200102.thumb.jpg.e0eeeae9fdf8ae2d063d70385fadbdad.jpg

 

IMG_20231021_142143437.thumb.jpg.5676d4b95c56e5f32a8c325efe3bdc70.jpg

 

IMG_20231021_142125141.thumb.jpg.2a9c0f59f4ff0239edb71e62e51e7637.jpg

 

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