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The real heating cost comparison to make?


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Achieving as good a Scop figure as possible is obviously a good goal.

But....

I am moving from a small 3 bed semi built in 1986 of approximately 93 sq/m. And building a highly insulated 200 sq/m house.  I doubt that even if i dont get the kind of Scop that i aim for that the new house will cost as much as the old one to keep warm. 

Lots of discussion focuses on  x design factor being a little off will mean your new house will cost more to heat. True when comparing variations of the new build but probably not true when comparing, in my case, where i am moving from.

Have i missed the point?

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Insulation first - added or by design as you mention.

Efficiency of the heating system - IMO there's other things in the mix there too - robustness, maintenance etc are in the mix.
A clever fancy new tech, or brand,  that breaks and can't be fixed is going to kill any efficient running costs with replacement costs.

Efficient shortlist certainly.


Keep in mind though - your context will change, Say 18 months to 2 years in the new house you'll be comparing to last season's bill rather than your old house.

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Your surface are for losses will go up just because of the semi->detached and the larger floor area.

 

Depending on your form factor you could easily be doubling your surface area. So your fabric would need to be at least 2x as good just to stay in the same place! Depending on how.well.insulatwd your old place was thatau or maynot be realistic.

 

A victorian solid wall flat uses less energy to heat than our super insulated detached bungalow.  But it's half the floor area and benefits from only having 2 external surfaces Vs our 6!

 

My suggestion is defo have UFH and get the heating system temp as low as possible. We can heat our house with a flow temp below 40C. MHRV is aust once you've got your walls up to a certain level.

 

Oh and *don't* chase solar gain in the winter with lots.of south facing glazing!  It will cause more problems with overheating on sunny days and especially in summer than it solves with "free heat" in the winter 

 

 

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38 minutes ago, Beelbeebub said:

Oh and *don't* chase solar gain in the winter with lots.of south facing glazing!  It will cause more problems with overheating on sunny days and especially in summer than it solves with "free heat" in the winter 

 

This is a passive house that as you can see, keeps the shutters down on sunny days.

image.thumb.png.5f2ee7156ad8d41cc5155da37893661b.png

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